Expect the Unexpected

I know there has been an eight day break since the last post. Well that is because a lot has been going on. As I stated when we started these review, we have time. It seems that not only will we have time but I will have ample opportunity to post.



As we age we tend to attribute aches and pains to the process of maturing. However, it seems that the ache that has sidelined me is actually a fractured tibia. Not to worry it is just the very tip of it but it prompted xrays that sent every orthopedic surgeon, worth their salt, into hyper mode. I am on track for a full replacement of my left knee in early or mid-March. So - - time is definitely not in short supply.



I want to take a little break from the review of fashion from the runway shows. Well actually I guess that is not exactly true. For those who are fans of "Project Runway" there is a show in Bryant Park that one can attend each March. The final show aired last night and a winner was named. For those of you, who like me, did not really follow the show religiously, there was a marathon presentation.



In watching the marathon, with my knee being iced and on pain medication, I was stunned at who was allowed to continue and who was voted off. I was also a bit disappointed with the judges and their assessments of the fashions and the narrow perspective with which they view fashion.

The staples, in terms of judging were Michael Kors, Nina Garcia, the former Editor at Large from Marie Claire Magazine and Heidi Klum. Let's start there.



I own one piece of Michael Kors. It is a sweater wrap with a shawl collar that falls to points in the front. He is not my favorite designer because I do not find his designs exciting or particularly fashion forward. He is a top fashion designer but let's face it, if someone said you can have a Michael Kors or a Donna Karan, give me Donna any day of the week and twice on Sunday.



Nina Garcia was the editor at large of a 'fashion' magazine that I, as a fashionista, pretty much ignore. I also refer to her as the former Editor at Large as Abigail Pesta was named Editor at Large in early November. Let's be realistic for a moment. Even though Marie Claire is a Conde Nast Publication, it isn't Vogue, it isn't Glamour, it isn't W and it certainly isn't V. The magazines allow you to play with the art of fashion. Marie Claire never gave me the sense that it really understood the art of the shoot.



Heidi Klum is legendary. No one can say that she has not stunned audiences on the runways of the world. No one can discount her stature in the fashion world. No one can say with any credibility that she has not reached the stature afforded to the rare few who are designated as 'super models'. That said, Heidi's taste is Heidi's taste. It does not necessarily translate to all women's taste and to me there was no accounting for the value held by garments she personally would not wear. It really should be all about fashion, not about your personal taste.



I understand that it was a competition but the situations that the designers were forced into were not realistic. Remember I have some exposure to this world and I know what it takes to construct some of the garments and that no one is going to give me $100 to construct a designer ball gown. If they do, I am not giving them anything that they will want to wear. Even so, I must say that it was clear among the designers who could sew and who could not. Those who could sew and understood construction fared much better than those who could not.



While the winner was not a surprise it was to me sad given the attitude of the industry and the need to begin to change that attitude. Irina Shabayeva came across as an egotistical spoiled brat. I found it strange that she would accuse one of the other designers of copying her ideas. Was she serious? Did you see the 'winning' collection she sent down the runway? Where was the originality in those designs?



Any fashionista would have looked at the head pieces and said "Prada". They would have looked at the leather, the black and the 'goth' aspect and said "Demeulemester". They would have looked at her "big" gown and said "Versace", even though it was a bad imitation. She won because she made a tee shirt that gave you a glimpse of her soul? Please, she bastardized a copy written image and used it as her own. Yeah I know all about copyright exceptions and the use of part of the image and the substantial altering that allows one to use someone else's image. However, don't then call this person brilliant. They plagiarized. It is what it is.

On the next season of "Project Runway" I would love to see two competing supermodels as staples with regard to the judges. Let's have Heidi match ideas with Tyra Banks, Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell, Rene Russo, Beverly Johnson. Let's have an editor from a more popular fashion magazine or even a lifestyle magazine that has a healthy dose of fashion. Let's have people who really have to take these clothes around the block weigh-in. Let's have some more mature women on the show. Let's have a mix of models based on age, and OMG body type. Let's provide the designers an opportunity to really show what they can do. Give them three muses as staples and for each challenge they must design a look for all three. And finally, let's have a real stable of top designers weighing in, not just Michael Kors, he bores me.

But whatever you do, do not let Tim Gunn go anywhere. He is the bright spot on the show. He understands the importance of a collection that shows well on the runway. He understands style, which is not the same thing as fashion. He honestly, but constructively, tells the contestants what is wrong, missing, not working, difficult to pull off or just a plain 'don't do that'. I know he has held faculty and board positions at Parson's and that he heads creative design are Liz Clairborne. However, I don't know if he has ever designed his very own collection. I would love to see what he would do.

AHA! New concept for the show. Have the Tim Gunn's of the world design collections that would go down the runway on the final show along with the three top contestants. Let's add some pucker factor. Irina against Tom Ford, Carol Hannah against, Nicolas Ghesquiere (you did slightly copy his draping) and Althea against, Donna Karan (the sportswear separates queen). Barring the actual development of a line for the show, how about having them judge the final show. That would be amazing.

Who would I have picked? Probably Althea. The collection was cohesive and it was truly sportswear for now. It was comfortable, it was easy and she has much less attitude than Irina. The industry could use her humble stance.

a la prochaine

Debra

Three Italian Houses

Well last time we focused on three French houses. This time the focus is on three Italian houses.
Since the French houses were household names let's do the same this time. How about Ferragamo, Versace and Gucci. I thought about Armani but that house deserves a blog post of its own.

I want to end on an up note so let's start with Gucci. It wasn't a great collection and it wasn't a terrible collection. Frida Giannini brought a mix of color, the obligatory whites for spring and of course the fashion staple, black. I just wasn't wowed by what made its way down the runway. I find myself wondering if there is any longing for the others in the fashion house to have Tom Ford reappear and once again propel them to a higher fashion plane.

I must say that the use of gray and a grayish blue were nice touches and went well with the basic black and white pieces. I simply wasn't a fan of the 'bandage' look of some of the garments. I was also a little disappointed with the cut work on some of the garments. Akris has perfected cut work and illusions. Anyone who attempts to do the same now has a pretty high standard to meet. For me it just fell a little short.

Now for the redemption. There are some great jackets in this collection. For me it is the use of hardware and zippers that really sold the pieces. While the skirts were a bit short for 'women of a certain age' these jackets are ageless. There was something there whether you have a tendency toward the biker look, a bit of Nehru (yeah that dates me), a bit of rock or just something out of the ordinary grab and go jacket for that coolish spring evening.

One of the real appeals for me was the use of the stark white and silver hardware. It gives the pieces a gleam and makes them pop in a way that will allow you to pull the jacket out four seasons from now, throw it on with a pair of jeans and wear the same way that classic leather jacket wears. I love being able to do that. To be trendy with something that has staying power is an art. Ms. Giannini pulled that off with her jackets.

So, as I said, it wasn't a bad collection. I simply wasn't blown away. Could I have done better? Of course not. Everyone has to remember that I cannot draw so getting that concept out of my head and onto paper is not likely to happen. Ms. Giannini does have talent, that is clear. Maybe I just wish she had more range.

The rumor mill is working overtime. Word on the street is that Donatella is not long for the 'world' in terms of retaining control of the house. There are those in the industry who believe that it is time for the iconic label to be headed by someone other than a Versace. Whether this is true or not, I personally feel that some sort of change is in order.

The past couple of seasons (fall and resort) have sort of left me cold. There was the obligatory dark cast and metallics for fall and the bursts of color for resort. However, there was something decidedly desperate in these collections for my taste. I see no reason to have a dress slit so high in the front you are afraid to walk let alone sit down. To me, the slink looked 'bargain basement' and I am not used to seeing the Italians use fabrics that are not sumptuous. Some of them gave the appearance of the remnant table at some third rate establishment that would be named 'Freida's Fabric Warehouse'.

Now let's move up to Spring 2010. Again, not wonderful, at least for me. Of course there was color and the use of sheers. The skirts were decidedly short (as were most of the other collections this season) and not catering to anyone over the age of 35. Once more we were looking at slits up to there, skirts hitting the models above mid-thigh and of course the body conscious form fitting look that Versace is known for. It is just getting a bit old.

I wanted to see some sophistication. I wanted to see this label grow up and become incredibly classic. There was one dusty pink suit that had silver studding as embellishments and the standard fare of zippers. Lengthen the skirt about 4 inches and it's a hit. If you have a youngish look and the personality to get away with it, you could be 45 to 50 and pull it off. There was one gown in a pale peach, again with silver embellishments, that had an interesting bodice and a very fluid and graceful skirt. But again, it would be difficult to wear if you were a mature woman.

This collection, more than most, leaves me wondering what it is going to look like in production. How will it be toned down to allow you to take it on a spin around the block? What will happen to those deep slits that few everyday women would be comfortable sporting? When will the desperate need for younger and younger fashions give way to a realization that no matter what age, women want to look great and they would like to see designs that they would feel appropriate wearing?

Again, that is just me. You need to really check out this collection and help me figure out what is redeeming and what is not. Because, if the rumors are true, I would say it was the last three or four collections that have the house reeling and wondering if it is time for a change.

Last but not least, Salvatore Ferragamo. As I read what some of the fashion writers have to say about the collections and the artistic directors at Ferragamo, I am convinced that there is simply a dislike of this label. Cristina Ortiz has not done a terrible job. I think that she has been much maligned. It will be interesting to see what is said about Massimiliano Giornetti.

One of the criticisms of the collection was a silhouette that placed more fabric around the hips and thighs. This made the pants appear to be an adaptation of jodphurs and the skirts a take on the same. I have always found it interesting to hear the comments about jodphurs. There really is a utilitarian reason for the silhouette and cut. It is called comfort and ease. I personally found them to be a bit out of proportion but at least there was an appropriate use of volume and closeness to the body for the bodice and sleeves of the complimentary pieces.

I liked the collection. I found it to be wearable and maybe to the fashion writers who only see the "art" of the show as opposed to the utility of the collection, that is boring. Panning Ms. Ortiz is of no benefit. It is also pointless. Graeme Black was given the same treatment as the AD at Ferragamo. His failings were attributed to the fact that he had his own label he was trying to launch while designing for Ferragamo. Well I say "that's bull!" His collection was a knockout punch and his talent is unquestioned. I think that the next stop for Ms. Ortiz will give her a chance to continue to design incredible collections for a label that the writers may view more favorably.

As I said, I want to see what Massimiliano Giornetti has up his sleeve. Right now it is a menswear sleeve so hopefully he can soften that look and bring it to women. I see the ads in the fashion mags and I see the garments in the Ferragamo Boutiques. They are incredible and have the richness of hand that the Italians are known for promoting.

If he gets panned we will have proof that it has nothing to do with the vision of the ADs at the House of Salvatore Ferragamo. It has to do with the closed minds of the fashion writers who have been sheep-like in their reporting of various labels because it is what everyone says. Sign me up as a 'Ferragamo Fan'. I wish Ms. Ortiz the best as she moves forward and I hope that Mr. Giornetti has a stellar run. And Ms. Ortiz, don't fret. Ask Graeme Black how it feels to be on top of your game. He too was panned and has proven that the fashion writers don't know everything.

a la prochaine

Debra

More from the Runways

Once again I have returned to provide some commentary on the runways. We have decided to look at some of the more well known designers today. That may provide everyone with a better comfort level and get everyone a bit more excited about the fashion that is on the horizon for spring.

Mr. Lagerfeld clearly decided to continue his theme from the Fall collection. Looking fresh and clean (though spotted with hay) there was a decided easy and country feel to the collection. It was as elegant as the landed gentry look that was introduced for Fall 2009, and as subtle with the use of color.

There were muted tweeds and plaids, and soft shades of beige, coral and pink blended into ensembles that were structured but feminine. Ruffles were used to add volume to texture and volume to jackets while skirts were kept minimal (with regard to shape and fit). In describing the jackets to someone I tried to get them to picture taking the classic Chanel jacket, cropping the sleeve at the elbow and encrusting it with soft organza or chiffon ruffles.

If there were misses for me it was in the dresses, which were a little to "Bo Peep" for me and some of the outerwear that while inspired, wasn't paired to my liking. There was also a black suit with a head-scarf that to me was a bit of 'nuns gone wrong'. I would definitely lose the scarf and maybe ditch the classic Lagerfeld glove look before taking this one on a spin around the block.

It is a very large collection (72 looks going down the runway) which meant that there was something for everyone. There were some great white shirts, a couple of wonderful skirts and of course, the classic Chanel jacket made relevant for today. The contrasting textures made for interesting looks though I must say that for me, some of the pairings of lace with heavy tweed and boucles seemed a bit off balance.

But, as it has been stated many times in this blog, my individual taste is not the issue. It was by all counts an inspired collection. Karl Lagerfeld is one of the most prolific designers in the industry producing content for not only his own label and Chanel but also for Fendi. To put 72 looks on the runway for Chanel alone is amazing.

Okay, I know he has help but ultimately he is the one who decides what the collection looks like and how it is themed. Tying Spring 2010 to Fall 2009 was brilliant in many ways. Even the selection of fabrics and colors (considering the weight and textures) was brilliant. If you happen to have purchased a pair of Chanel pants or a Chanel skirt from the Fall collection, you will have no problem pulling up a jacket from Spring to pair with it to give it a lighter, more jaunty feel.

Clearly Jean Paul Gaultier was in the mood for tennis. However, some of the outfits would be outlawed at Wimbledon due to the very un-British use of 'color'. I loved it. I know that I touched briefly on the collection in a previous post but I really needed to come back and do this collection justice.

Mr. Gaultier took you from playing on the court to the stands to lunch at the club with the gang to that elegant dinner at that great restaurant overlooking the Seine with this collection. There were only a couple of pieces that I honestly would not want in my closet. As for the rest of the collection, simply dust of the checkbook, check card, credit card or whatever you are using these days and add just one piece. I promise you it will be in your closet for years. Even if you pull this piece out 15 years from now it will be current, fashionable, 'trendy' and guaranteed to generate that age old question "where did you find that?"

I am convinced that Mr. Gaultier is the President of La Chambre Syndicale because he gets it! He understands the difference between the me who would go to Hermes to purchase a garment as opposed to the me who would go to the Gaultier Boutique to purchase a garment. He manages to understand that fashion must run the gamut and appeal to a wide range of women from may different walks of life.

No he did not ignore the trend of the sheer garment. He simply made the sheer garment wearable by many. He also made sure that if was purchased from Hermes, that sheer garment could be worn and would be relevant for many seasons to come. And if you go to the site and look at the show, his models are more like real women with curves and some meat on their bones.

No they are not a size 12 or 14 but it is hard to imagine that any of these ladies could comfortably fit into a size 0. They have shape and their legs do not look like the arms of an eight-year-old. But you know what; this is not a surprise to me. This is also the man who put a 51 year old model on the runway because he needed a look and a feel that he knew he could not get from a 17 year-old 'gamine'. He needed a real woman and he boldly put her on the runway. She brought the house down with applause and now Mr. Gaultier is using that same 'look' to sell Hermes. Brilliant.

Okay, now that I have drawn the contrast I might as well review Gaultier's own label. The trends are clear. Sheer, lingerie as outer garments, great coats and beige tones as the base of the tapestry. Gaultier knows exactly who he caters to for each collection. The proliferation of denim, tattered legs, conical bras and hose was the clear appeal to the current pop stars who are always at the shows and ready to shop. I must say that of everything that went down the runways, he nailed them.

While in the Hermes collection he used some bold and primary colors, in his collection he used oranges and other vibrant colors to draw you in and keep you hooked. For me a great deal of the collection is not age appropriate. However, there are some outer garments that I would grab in a heartbeat. There is a camel colored classic trench that I would be more than willing to pay the asking price to own. There were also a couple of very soft untailored and almost deconstructed coats that have that great throw on and go appeal.

Rest assured that the look of the more voluptuous model is not a fleeting theme for Gaultier. He has continued the theme in his own collection, where it was introduced for Spring 2009. Women world-wide are thanking him because there is no longer that doubt that designers know we can't all be a size 0 or 2. Mr. Gaultier may have put some rags on the runway and accentuated that tattered look but trust me, there was not a 'bone' in the bunch.

I am really excited about the arrival of Kirsten because maybe she can walk us through the process of loading some photos to the blog so we can begin to show you what we are describing in our writing. It will eliminate the need for you to log on to the different shows to see what we are talking about. In the meantime, go to the site and have a look. You will be amazed, and I defy you to keep that desire to buy at bay. Both of Mr. Gaultier's contributions for Spring 2010 are great.


Okay, that is only three collections and they are all from the Paris shows. But, that is enough for today. Tomorrow, three more. If there is a particular collection you would like our take on, I am happy to do that. Maybe since I made a small joke of them, we can get Janice to do an in depth on 'Rag & Bone'. They show in NYC so that is her territory. However, Kirsten and I have not been barred from reporting on the New York shows. We'll see what happens. Between the three of us, we will somehow get that in depth onto the posts of the blog.

a la prochaine

Debra

Introductions are in Order

Hey Everyone,

I am still taking a bit of a breather on the review of the runway shows for Spring 2010. This is just a short, but very important, post to introduce our newest member. We are all very excited to have her on board and we are certain that all of you will be happy to benefit from her input.

I had the good fortune to speak to a class of journalism students at the University of Washington. During that discussion I met a young woman, Kirsten Soelling. She is bright, energetic, enthusiastic and has graciously agreed to become one of the posters for The Designer's Story. Our intent in recruiting Kirsten is multi-faceted.

First, we need the opinion of someone who is under 30 as we opine on fashion and the collections that are making it down the runways of the world. Second, I was impressed by her knowledge of fashion and some of the questions she asked about the fate of the industry, in print form, as the world of journalism morphs from hard to electronic copy. Third, unlike Janice and me, she is actually a trained journalist and may be able to add some editorial style and comment that is currently lacking. And finally, but maybe most importantly, Kirsten is not technologically challenged.

We are looking forward to having her jazz up the blog page and add a dimension that is currently missing. She actually knows how to post pictures and videos, understands the importance of layout and graphics, and it wouldn't take her 3 hours to try and figure out how to move the photo from the left to the right side of the page. (I have no problem admitting that I have weaknesses when it comes to technology. My mobile phone is now upgraded beyond my technological skills).

So, we aren't sure when the first post is coming but I am confident that Kirsten will give you something to think about. Like us, she is open to hearing about topics you would like covered. As we have written many times, we would love to make this blog as relevant as possible and that means we address your concerns, questions, thoughts and even disagreements with our opinions.

So, if sometime in the not too distant future there is a post from Kirsten where she blasts me and Janice because we are of an age where we missed the symbolism of a designer's collection, or don't really understand the reason younger fashionistas are interested in this label or that silhouette, don't be shocked. Janice and I are all grown up and we can take it. A young, intelligent and straight shooting colleague is just what we need to keep us honest.

Kirsten has no restrictions on when to post. To prove that we have given her the keys to the kingdom. She has as much access and do Janice and I. We now simply need you to welcome her and make sure that she feels at home.

Welcome aboard, Kirsten. Knock 'em dead.

a la prochaine

Debra

To Continue the View

Well once again there are five collections that are on the block. For some reason I keep picking three from Paris and two from Milan. I will try to change that up as we move through these reviews.

I have to admit that my view of the collections is influenced by my desire to see designers begin to embrace all women as opposed to women of a certain age (20). For that reason, we welcome your comments. This is a fashion blog and we want to be sure that we are representing fashion across the board and not just what we like.



So - - - to start, let's talk about A. Vandervorst. An Vandervorst and Filip Arickx sent a collection down the runway that was definitely in keeping with the season. As it started out in NYC it was clear the theme was going to be 'sheer' and lingerie as an outer garment. If it isn't being worn as an outer garment it is at least pretty enough to be viewed through a sheer blouse or even skirt. The confounding aspect for me was the use of hose to cinch pants.



When I was a kid and hose were the rage (not pantyhose but the sheer hose that needed garters to secure them in place) it was strictly taboo to have the tops show. How gauche and what type of woman were you if your skirt was so short that the tops of you stockings were visible?



Well fear no more. Vandervorst has solved that problem. Pull on your hose and use them as a statement of sheerness. It was also interesting that there was not a lot of color. It was a very neutral collection that played well on many complexions. In it's defense, it was easy and when placed in production and worn on the streets, the whole 'art' of the collection will be tamed and it will play well on the streets. For those who are more modest, a great tank or chemise will do the trick.



There are some outerwear pieces that are great. The use of chunky sweater knits and off the shoulder presentation gave everything a very fresh and easy look. There were also some presentations that gave the impression of one-shoulder garments. You need to check out the ingenious use of sheer and opaque to create this look. If you are a home sewer, there is a lot of food for thought in this collection.



Now I am about to commit sacrilege. Nicholas Ghesquiere usually hits it out of the park. This time there were a couple of pieces and one of the many hoodies would be great to have to use on a cool spring evening. However, the absence of any evening or cocktail wear was a disappointment for me. I really think that it is one of the things he does best.



If you want a very casual, pulled together street look, this is you. It is somewhere between ski and jeans only. There was color, mostly blues and greens and yellows that formed very geometric or rather graphic presentations. It just seemed as though for this season there was an attempt to achieve an understated look.



In my eye it was casual, sporty and somewhat boring. I don't need 10 hoodies. I need a couple. I also want them to make different statements. These all said the same thing. I really think that if the fabrics were changed you could use these outfits for speed skaters. I am no longer interested in looking that casual.

I am waiting for the Nicholas Ghesquiere of Balenciaga to return for Fall 2010. I want to see if this continues or if he gets back on the horse and gives us wow. If he doesn't, well I guess I will have to find a way to readjust my view of who and what Mr. Ghesquiere is and how the House of Balenciaga will change in the future.

Let's hop down to Milan for a moment. Muccia Prada is an icon. The label is iconic. However, in my estimation, the label is also in need of some umph! For the past few seasons I have been praying that Prada does something that has such a 'wow' factor that it shuts all of us up who are waiting for the label to fade into the sunset. Once again, for me, it did not happen.

The adage is that it is not how you start but how you finish. As the daughter of a dressmaker that is so, so true. The finishing is everything. I was taught that when you turn a garment inside-out it should be as beautiful as it is on the finished side. To me that means you have actually hemmed the garment. Prada disagrees with me on that point.

Jackets, pants, skirts, tops, underpinnings all had raw edges for hemlines. Those that were hemmed were hemmed in such a way as to show you exactly how deep the hem was and it just seemed wrong. Do you know how many hems my mother made me rip out because you could see the stitching on the right side of the fabric? Do you know how many time I was asked "did you face that hem or use seam tape"? The head seamstress at Prada did not ask those questions. She did not ask, "will that edge fray over time?"

That aside, the cuts and lines were interesting. For the most part the collection was wearable but not 'wow' (except for the unfinished look). I am just not a Prada garment fan. But - - - if you had the thrill of going to the accessory shows, there are some really hot Prada bags, shoes and boots.

Michael Kors has taken that unmistakable Prada heel and applied it to some of his shoes and it is a great look. If you are not sure which heel I am talking about you saw it over and over again the the movie (duh) The Devil Wears Prada. Meryl Streep wore the heck out of those shoes. And, if you are a faithful follower, you know that Janice and I happen to be boot junkies. Boots are like drugs for us. A new pair of boots is an instant fix for whatever ails you. Prada can help you get your fix.

I want Prada to make a huge comeback. I think that the label is important to the industry and something would be missing on the runways of Milan if it were to fade into the sunset. But alas, I am not the definitive authority on the fate of any fashion label. I have my likes and dislikes. I have my opinions. You have yours. So, go to the runway show on line and tell us what you think.
We could be completely wrong. Even if we are wrong you will not see me giving any retailer $2,000 for a jacket that has no hem!

Since I am now on a rant let's go back to Paris for a moment. Rei Kawakubo is a self-proclaimed adult delinquent. She said so in an interview. I think she has no filters. I think she is 'p'd o' about something. Commes des Garcons was at one time an edgy collection that was on one hand shocking and the other stunning. In my estimation it has now gone to really bad fashion student project status. Let's get Rei to a point where she is happy and creating instead of making statements.

At some point you need to put the costume aspect of the designing aside and remember that the name of the game is to develop a following and sell garments. The master of this concept is Vivienne Westwood. Ms. Kawakubo missed the mark. She has gone to pure costume mode with this collection.

Okay, toning down my rant, this collection is either really fashion forward (as in beyond our current ability to even conceptualize the trend) or a statement about something equally incomprehensible. Is it a statement about the 80's? Is it a statement that we will buy anything if it is labeled hot and trendy? Is it Rei Kawakubo's way of telling us that she is tired of the status quo and the industry needs to do something else? I don't know.

On this one I really need some reader input. I need a few of you to watch this show and tell me what is being presented. I could read what the folks at Style.com have to say but again, that is just one opinion. I need to hear lots of them and look at this collection again.

And now for the last collection for today --- Gabriele Colangelo. Again, I am getting another "who" from our readers. Gabriele Colangelo; Italian; got a walk at Fashion Week, Milan; unlucky time slot (late on Friday afternoon); HIT IT OUT OF THE PARK!!!!

Attendees of fashion weeks pick and choose. There are the must see collections (In Milan it is Armani, Versace, Botega Venetta, Dolce & Gabanna, etc.). Gabriele Colangelo most likely was not on the list of 'must attends' for many buyers. The joke was on them. After the collection went down the runway (in their absence) they were in need of an appointment at the showroom to view the collection. If they were smart they hunted down a telephone number and that is exactly what they did. It should have been one of the busiest showrooms in Milan, post fashion week.

My standard bearers for Italian design houses are Ferre and Valentino (yes, Valentino has a design house and showrooms in Milan). I cannot imagine that either house would hesitate if Colangelo asked to design a couple of pieces for them. The collection was easy, elegant, wearable and has broad appeal. He clearly, like Valentino and Ferre, likes women.

The palate was muted and easy to add to an existing wardrobe. The pieces ran the gamut from classic to trendy, giving you the option to spice up something you already have in your closet or add a piece that will serve you for years. The collection has that great balance between relevant today and standing the test of time.

I would imagine that many an Italian woman (or any woman) would look at the pieces in the collection and say "I could wear that" or "Oh how fun and comfortable". For me there were a couple of pieces where I questioned the proportions and the volume of fabric used in the garment. Yet, even with those questions, those pieces were wearable on the right person. I am looking forward to seeing many, many more collections from this young designer.

Okay gang, I am going to take a day off to do some things and get back to the review on Monday. So - - - -

a la prochaine

Debra

And Now To Start

IN MEMORY OF MY UNCLE CECIL ANDREW COLLINS

APRIL 24 1928 - OCTOBER 28 2009

Hello Faithful Readers,

As promised, I am here to begin the journey through the world of fashion that was shown on the runways in London, Milan and Paris. I did post a few comments on shows that were somehow standouts (for various reasons). Now I am going to take a few days to deal with the remaining fashion houses and labels.

I am going to do this over several days as we (the family) need a bit of something to distract us over the next week or so. The events of the past couple of months have taught me that time marches on and torches are passed to the next standard bearers. As it is in families when patriarchs and matriarchs pass on, so it is with fashion. The important thing is to remember who you are and hang on to the roots that were so lovingly passed to you to pass to those who will come after you.

During our last conversation, my uncle asked me about the project and how it was going. His advice was to keep at it. That is exactly what I intend to do. I am going to keep at it and in time, The Fashion Project will be a huge success.

With that said, here we go. Today we are going to get into two collections that were shown in Milan and three that were shown in Paris. I know at this rate it will take over a month to get through everything. Well, sit back and relax. That is not a bad thing. The merchandise will not be arriving until March so we have some time.

Who out there has heard of or owns any Ann Demeulemeester? I don't have one single piece. I don't think the collection lacks merit; I simply do not lean toward her style. For spring it is possibly the most sophisticated Goth I have ever seen. I will admit that I am of an age where I don't get Goth and seeing young people draped in black with piercings and dark make up unnerves me a bit. But, if I had a daughter or niece who was seriously into Goth, I would run straight to this label.

If you are going to adopt a 'culture' you need to do it in a way that will still allow you to stand out among the millions who share your enthusiasm for the look. Ann Demeulemeester will definitely allow that. I am not talking about the obvious long black reefer or trench coat accessorized with Docs and torn hose. I am talking absolutely stunning, well put together outfits that you could actually dress up and take for a spin around the block.

The comments you would get are thing such as "I think it's Goth, but I am not really sure. It was really sophisticated" and "did you see Debra's niece? Who was she wearing. It was really Goth but hot!" Even I would don some of the jackets and being a fan of the interesting, there are pieces I would add to my wardrobe just for shock value. Just imagine hearing, "that's so not like you." Well that is the point. It is like me. It is like me the day I decide to look a bit more edgy. One Goth piece does not make one part of the Goth culture. It makes you willing to branch out.

In stark contrast was Bluemarine. Anna Molinari is a genius. The collection is soft and flowing; it is ladylike and full of everything that says spring. The colors are pastel but intense and concentrated enough to let you know that the colors are there but not so intense that you are running for shades. It is a collection that really resonated with me.

For those of you who are saying 'yuk' Anna took care of you also. Included in the collection is a fair amount of tailored clothing that is reminiscent of safari wear. It is clean, it is casual but at the same time elegant. If you happened to be out for the afternoon and a couple of friends said, let's go to dinner, you would be able to feel very comfortable walking into any restaurant.

I found that the appeal of this collection was the fact that at my age, I would feel comfortable in many of the pieces. It may be a bit staid for someone who is extremely fashion forward. Of course, if that is what you are looking for, go to the softer side of Demeulemeester. There are some drapy pants in large prints (muted greys, white and black outlines) that would play to your edgy character. For me, it was the softness of the dress, the flow of a skirt and the beautiful statement of spring that made this collection stellar.

Let's stay in Paris for a moment and talk about Balmain. Well the Balmain of old was military, tailored, classic. The Balmain of today is still military, a bit less tailored and in some respects far from classic. Christophe Decarnin has perfected the military jacket with epaulets. He has also perfected a look that can only be called, Rock Star.

Alas, it is now time to talk about age appropriate dressing. A couple of the jackets I could pull off, but at 55, I think I would look a bit desperate trying to put entire outfits together. It just wouldn't play as well on me as it would on someone 15 or 20 years younger. With some of the outfits, even they would have a tough time.

The use of fabrics was incredible. There are metallics, sheers, etc. that were combined to make really great looking ensembles. Metallic military jackets while impractical for combat are the perfect item for that night out with the gang. Even if you opted for just the jacket, what a statement to pair with any jeans. There were some metallic and lace dresses (very short) that would be great tunics over a pair of skinny jeans. It is the perfect way to take day into evening and feel chic, edgy and more fashion forward than the rest of the crowd.

The next two collections are truly multi-generational. By that I mean that there were pieces in each collection for someone irrespective of age. In Milan, Roberto Remondi, of Gianfranco Ferre, put together a collection that was incredibly beautiful. I was impressed and I dare say that Gianfranco himself would have taken the time to give Mr. Remondi a bow.

True to the house of Gianfranco Ferre, the colors were muted and minimal. The styles were feminine yet tailored (tailoring goes beyond suits and coats ladies). Most importantly, they were extremely wearable. The suits were soft and with the lengthening of a skirt could be worn by my me and my mother as well as my nieces. The details were great and the finishing was incredible. I was again reminded why the House of Gianfranco Ferre holds such appeal for me.

Before you say 'oh God, another retreat into the past' take a look at some of the pieces. There are a couple of cocktail dresses that were very beautiful and fashion forward. No they would not play well on someone over 50, but they have real appeal. Not only would it be great to see them on the runway, it would be great to see them at that summer cocktail party where you need to wow a client or make an impression on a group of people. And being the daughter of a dressmaker, I already know what I would do to the dress to make it 'age appropriate' for me.

It is all about the look, the feel and the mystery for me. Gianfranco Ferre always brought that to fashion and now, through Mr. Remondi, it is happening again. I am eagerly awaiting the Fall collection.

Last but not least, Andrew Gn. Okay, I know what everyone is saying. "Who is Andrew Gn?" Well ladies get ready to make him a household name. I happen to think he is brilliant. This is a designer, who like Mr. Remondi, realizes that fashion is enjoyed and deserved whether you are 28 or 88 and whether you can pull off a strapless gown/dress or not.

No he has not hidden women with figure challenges away in mounds of fabric. He has taken his knowledge and crafted jackets, skirts, dresses, etc. to make sure that if my mother has an event to attend, she can purchase something from the current season and not feel that she needs thousands of dollars of 'work' before she puts the garment on.

I loved the suits with the puffy sleeved jackets. I loved the entire feminine look of the collection. It was a bit more colorful than some of the others in Paris but it was beautiful. In my advancing years I have come to appreciate the ability of people to adapt. Mr. Gn has adapted fashion so that any woman who wishes to play can do so, in his collection.

So there is the scoop for today. I don't know what Nicole Phelps or anyone else said about these collections. It really doesn't matter. It is entirely possible that each was panned. If they were, I have made my point.

Fashion is a matter of individual taste. Mine is not yours and yours is not your friends. So everyone, go out there and look at what went down the runways for Spring 2010. If you don't find something to your liking, I would be shocked. Absolutely everything was out there. Take some time and browse.

a la prochaine

Debra

It's On its Way

My apologies to the readers. It has been a bit hectic here as I am in Bellevue and saddled with some family matters that require immediate and intense attention. As of Wednesday, I should have some time to sit and provide you with an analysis of the London, Milan and Paris runways. No one has complained but I want to keep my word.

In the meantime, I hope everyone is ready for Resort 2009. 'Tis time and for those who are shopping, there are some great pieces in various collections. I just hope the retailers were brave enough to bring them in for your consumption.

But for now, family duty calls and I must attend to a couple of items. I appreciate your understanding and starting Wednesday, it will be FASHION, FASHION, FASHION!!!

a la prochaine

Debra

I LOVE FASHION...!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Alas ,just to set the record straight ,I did not venture to the beautiful land of Idaho to search out a new abode to wear my new spring 2010....

But after reviewing the American Designers.......I wasn't running away from some of the collections....BUT if I were to purchase one of Calvin Klein's dresses...I could only seriously

wear in the presence of the beautiful trees that line the skies of Coeur d'Alene ,Idaho.

The trees would definitely camouflage the sheerness of the collection !!!!!!!!!! The collection

was labeled as ,minimal and sheer .Enough said !

As the title clearly stakes I LOVE FASHION...In one of my previous entries..I stated how

I systemactically go through my latest issues ....I love the inffusion of colors,fabrics ,nuances

and creativity of new and many times old styles that are revitalized .I realize that many lengths will be lowered for the average shopper and some items are only for the runway .But living in

such a climate as San Francisco...I still tend to lean towards most of the fall fashions...many fabrics are so perfect for our weather .

One great early tip though ,if you are seriously thinking about revamping your spring wardrobe

look in your closet first ..So many vendors offered looks that are probably in your closet or @ your nearest resale shop .Ralph Lauren's collections were reminiscint of the 'Grapes of Wrath .

Oversized ,torn jeans...Newsboy hats , calico print dresses ,and my favorite the classic blue

pinstriped pant suit . Yes I am on the search ...with a little alterations...I am in like flint !!!!

Donna Karan's looks were weightless ,with an easy appeal as only DK can present .There were

hues of blush,greys and white . Anna Sui showed preppylooks with lots of prints,florals and

lots of Bohemian influence .Marc Jacobs had more going on than a Disney on Ice show !!!!!!!!!

In a nutshell there were ruffles everywhere,graphics,draping and underwear on the surface .

Look it up for yourself . Last but not least...........Oscar de la Renta presented the Safari look

with a twist of course ,Ladylike dresses in fab colors ,great prints and eveningwear that is his

forte .Thank you Mr. de la Renta for remembering us in the 40 plus club !!!!!!

Just a reminder the industry is still in the struggling mode ,so just a word of advice ..save those

dollars for those after holiday great finds ...focus in ,go try on that one must-have ,alert your

favorite sales persona and they can ring it up with that fabulous percentage off price ...

A demain

Janice

What Were They Thinking

Okay, I know everyone is waiting for the fashion assessments but things keep cropping up. Now it seems that French Vogue has a spread with a model in black-face. First Ralph with a wickedly photo-shopped image and now French Vogue with 'black face'. What in the world is going on? What would make any thinking person believe that this was an okay thing to do?



In April of 2008 the much touted Vogue Italia came out with the "Black Issue". Well that caused some tongue wagging from one side of the industry about how it was just as 'racist' to have an all black issue as it was to have all white runways and magazine shoots. The funny thing is there were additional printings of that issue and I was well into the issue (about 120 pages) before I saw the first black face. It wasn't about freezing any particular group out of the industry. It was a statement of what was happening in the industry. It was a notice to the industry that they were not only banishing some women and making it hard for them to make a living but they were losing a portion of the population that did not relate to being tall, waifish and Eastern European.



Of course the American fashion mags weighed in and posed questions such as 'who is to blame'? Well I have a suggestion. The editors of the fashion magazines control the content of the magazines. Maybe they should assume some of the responsibility. I heard comments that it would be harder to sell clothing if the models were women of color. Why is that? I am buying the garment not the model. They all possess the same body type so the garments don't hang differently. Also, what is the equivalent of "tech week" for a show is conducted in the fashion world and each garment is fitted to a specific model. They don't just randomly run back stage and grab a dress.



The April 2008 Vogue Italia did accomplish its goal. There have been many more black models on the runways in Europe and here in America. However, the American runways are still spotty. I think it is a bit of backlash because a discriminatory practice was pointed out and there is such stigma assigned to being discriminatory or racist or bigoted.



Now, this last act by French Vogue is just beyond explanation. It isn't that they could not have found a black model so it had to be that they did not want one. The question is why? The issue itself is about supermodels. How strange that not one black supermodel appears in or is mention in the spread. They do exist. If you doubt me here are a few names you may recognize. Naomi Campbell, Tyra Banks, Iman, Alek Wek, Liya Kebede, Chanel Iman and Jourdan Dunn would all classify as supermodels. We can even go back to Beverly Johnson and those who worked with her in the days when fashion was glamorous and wonderful. Instead of using one of these women they pick Lara Stone, a Dutch woman, and put her in full body makeup to make her appear black.



Okay, if it was something artistic it missed the mark for me. If it was a joke, I didn't get it. To me the look is not only offensive, it is freaky. The French certainly should know better. Even if they didn't the photographer is an American. He certainly knew it was in bad taste and offensive at best and derogatory and racist at worst.



Should he have refused to do the shoot? I can't make that call. He is in business to make money. I understand doing things that stick in your craw. You buck up and get it over with. He was contracted to do the shoot and that is what he did. I am certain that Meisel did not develop the concept. That would be like blaming Demarchelier for Galliano's decision to paint all of his models blue or yellow or orange for a runway show. Patrick simply shot the photos.



I know that apologies will never be made to the black supermodels for the slight they have suffered. That slight is not recognizing them as the supermodels they are. They have earned that status and recognition. I wish they had been included. It would have been a great boost to the self-esteem of many young black women and girls world-wide.

As a black American woman who spends a great deal of time in Paris, I can tell you that each of these women is greatly respected and they do get work. I can also tell you that this is the dismissive attitude of the French. I can already envision that disinterested shrug that is so classically given when the French are thinking 'so what'. It will be interesting to see if American Vogue has any comments or response. I am not holding my breath for that either. After all the response to Italian Vogue's black issue was the editorial asking who is to blame.

It is very interesting. I have discovered in writing this post that the offense I feel is not really that Lara Stone was painted black. I am offended that Naomi Campbell, Alek Wek, et. al. were not given the opportunity to do the spread. If you really look at the garments they would have been amazing on Alek Wek or Chanel Iman. It would be really awesome to see an 'African Queen' portrayed by a woman of African descent. It is not my dismay of the industry resorting to 'black face'. It is my desire to be see 'me' in the industry. Black women are not invisible and we do not result in diminished sales for design labels.

And now an additional question. Given the visceral response to having a model in 'black face', what if French Vogue was afraid of having me equally offended if they had selected a black model to depict an African Queen? I am not defending them for their decision. I am simply willing to state that I do not know their intentions in doing this.

I hope the editors of French Vogue feel that the controversy deserves discussion and that a dialogue ensues. I am willing and will happily participate in that dialogue. If we never converse with each other we will continue to talk at each other. That is sad because if we are talking at each other, no one is heard and no one feels understood. It is time for the industry to enter into that dialogue.

a la prochaine

Debra

Strictly Brief !!!!!!!!!!!!

To one and all...............

I know Debra said I would be covering the American Designers..and you are probably wondering
where are the reviews ...Well I am presently looking for land with lots of trees ,perhaps
Coeur d' Alene to wear all the sheer garments shown for Spring 2010..........

Just Briefly

Alas the shows are over and it is time to comb through the footage to see what we think of the efforts of the many designers who braved the economy and put collections on the runways around the world. This is a very short post to speak to one particular fashion house that is missing this coming season. We are sad to say that Christian LaCroix did not show.

I know that there are some who are thinking to themselves that it wasn't a label that was to their liking. However, the problem is that it is one less label out there and it further restricts the choices women have in 'getting dressed'. I was not a fan of his women's' line but he had some great ties and a couple of years ago, while in Paris I bought some of those great ties for my father and brothers. Just the other day, my brother mentioned that he would love to get a couple more Christian LaCroix ties. I didn't have the heart to tell him that it would be a while, if ever.

So - - - here's hoping that somehow Mr. LaCroix finds a way to bring his fashion label back and gives us all many thrills in one of the coming seasons. I think that we should all send positive energy to every single designer. It is going to be a little more time before the chill is off of the industry and the wallets of shoppers begin to thaw.

Until that time, let's keep buying what we can. I am not suggesting purchasing for the sake of consuming. I am talking about going ahead and buying that incredible bag, or that pair of shoes, or those killer gloves. If you need a winter coat there are some great ones out there and the prices are pretty good. Just make sure that everything you purchase has a real place in your closet and it adds something positive to your wardrobe.

So I will be making those assessments. Right now I just wanted to say that I am a bit sad that Christian LaCroix was forced to sit this one out. I for one would love to see him back on the scene. Here's hoping for March 2010.

a la prochaine

Debra

I Lied

I know I said I was going to wait until all of the shows were done in Paris to comment but I lied. I cannot wait any longer to comment on at least three things. First let's talk about Ungaro. When the announcement came out heralding Lindsay Lohan as the artistic director I thought it was a joke. As it turns out it should have been. The collection that she and Estrella Archs put on the runway was beyond hideous. I dare say that any clients that Ungaro had went running for the doors in search of a new design house to attach themselves to.

I have never in my life seen such a classless display of - - - I can't even call them garments. The question you were asking yourself as you viewed this collection was "Am I at a runway show or is this a strip club?" To parade models down the runway with heart-shaped pasties was beyond the beyond. Mounir Moufarrige should be ashamed. If he wanted publicity he could have gotten it by hiring someone credible and putting a knock-out collection on the runway.

I am tired of the recent glut of tasteless Hollywood starlets and celebs claiming to have a lock on fashion and a sense of what constitutes style. Lindsay Lohan just proved that she wouldn't know style if it jumped up and bit her on the behind. And by the way, two inches shorter and along with the breasts of the models, with pasties on their nipples, you could have seen each models behind.

The second thing I want to comment on right now is the divergence of the House of Valentino to something that just isn't Valentino at all. There was a lot of dismay at the direction that Alessandra Facchianetti was taking the House and it made her tenure with Valentino very short. However, I will say this. Her collections were wearable. The stuff that Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Picioli have sent down the runway for the past two seasons cannot be worn by mature women.

Particularly disappointing is the collection for Spring 2010. It is far too sheer; it is far too short; and it is not hip or avant garde. It is a slap in the face to a man who created a wonderful design house and who truly loved women.

I am not a prude. It isn't that in 90 percent of the collection you could see the models breasts through the sheer fabric, it is that once again that some young designers are seemingly relegating the women with the means to pay for their clothing to a life in flour sacks. I wonder how their fashion sense will evolve as they mature and realize that at 50 or 60, it would be nice to have a Valentino but alas, no one of that age can wear it because the design of the garment makes it impossible to wear foundation garments.

No one remains young and firm forever. Without the help of a great plastic surgeon you are out of luck with this collection if you are over 50. Then again, I don't care how good the plastic surgeon is, if you go in for too much work you will have that decided 'worked on' look. No one wants to look mounted as if they visited the taxidermist. You all know what I mean. One more face lift and your navel will be on your chin.

I know that it will more than likely go into production in a more modest fashion. However, if not being 'Valentino enough' cost Ms. Facchianetti her position, the same end should befall Chiuri and Piocioli.

The third and final thing I will comment on is the commentary from the fashion writers. It is a dis-service to any young, up and coming designer to pan the collection based on one's tiny perception of what fashion is or should be. I would be curious to know how many of these fashion writers have any expertise in fashion other than sitting at fashion shows and shopping at Macy's. I really wonder what qualifies them to pass judgment on people who have actually trained for their careers.

There were accolades given to collections that were so over the top that it was hard to determine if the designer was serious while collections that had an appeal to a wide audience were panned as uninspired. Maybe the fashion writers have decided that inspiration comes from viewing collections that are only for a small segment of the population and then pandering to those few.

I saw nothing wrong with Tim Hamilton's collection. If the fact that it is wearable makes it a bland effort so be it. Alexander McQueen's collection was beyond anything I had seen. I am not sure how to wear it or who would wear it. However, it was not horrid. It was simply not my taste or to the taste of most of the women I know. I will say that I do not recall seeing one woman of color in his show and for that I say 'shame on you Alexander McQueen'.

Starting next week I will go through each collection with a fine tooth comb and opine on what is good and what is bad. As I do this the thing you need to keep in mind is that it is from my point of view. My view is colored by my taste and my likes and dislikes. It doesn't mean that it is correct or that it is the definitive word on what will be a hit for the season. I caution you to take the same thing into consideration when someone who writes for Vogue, Vanity Fair, Bazaar or any other fashion mag issues an opinion.

Everyone has an opinion. It is just that. An opinion.

a la prochaine

Debra

Fashion Overload

Even from a distance you get that malady this time of year called fashion overload. This is the first season I have checked out the collections remotely and I must say it is just as exhausting. It may actually be more exhausting.

When you are there you know that you can't possibly see every show so you pick and choose. From the comfort of your home in front of a computer screen you start to figure that you really can do something you have never been able to do before - - - see them all. Well guess what? You can't.

So far we have had NYC, London and Milan. We are now in Paris and we are not done. There are more shows after Paris. While they are lesser known shows, they are important to the designers who get walks in those venues. It is sort of like baseball. There are players on the farm teams who are working as hard as they can to improve and get that call to come up to the major league. For some it will happen.

In terms of actually blogging about the collections and the comments of the "professional" fashion writers, I will wait until Paris is over and I have had some time to digest what I have viewed. For now I just want to talk about a very disturbing trend in the industry.

A few years ago there was a lot of concern over the health of the models and the things they were doing to themselves to remain thin. For the most part, the banning of anyone under the age of 16 and not openly encouraging models to starve themselves has helped. Spain went as far as to take a stand and request that the designers use slightly larger models. So, on that front things are better.

What is not better is the obsession with youth. So far I have seen a couple of collections that are totally inappropriate for anyone over the age of 40. That said, my question is why do designers ignore a large portion of the population? More than that, why are they ignoring the portion of the population with the money to actually invest in their collections (e.g. purchases pieces)?

I understand that the runway shows are entertainment and that the garments may not go into production as you see them on the runway. That does not change the fact that when you are sitting in the audience thinking of your clientele you are sometimes angry at the designers for constantly pushing youth, youth, youth.

I do not know many 45 or 50 year old women who want to wear a skirt that is half way up their thighs. Nor are there many who want to wear tops that need underpinnings for the underpinnings in order to have enough support for the girls. You would think that these designers were all in their 20's and 30's. But alas, they are not. Some of them are older than I am and have mothers who cannot wear their clothing.

This is not what Coco Chanel had in mind; it is not what Yves Saint Laurent was striving for. It is not what Christian Dior envisioned. Some of what I have seen is a real slap in the face to the mature woman. They are blatant statements that say, "I don't want you in my clothes. You are too old."

I have a news flash for designers. Every woman on the planet, irrespective of age or dress size wants to be beautiful. Constantly catering to a segment of the population that cannot afford to purchase your clothing and does not have the sophistication to wear it with style and elegance it requires is not wise. If you think I am wrong, ask the designers who seem to get the idea that women who have the resources to shop are those who are not saving for a college fund for their kids.

So my hat is off to design houses such as Graeme Black, Akris, Dries Van Noten, Oscar de la Renta, Bottega Veneta, Donna Karan, etc. They are the ones who have figured out that the name of the game is to dress women so they can feel elegant. It is time for some of the rest to follow suit. Even Heidi Klum made a comment on Project Runway about a dress one of the contestants made 'aging the model 10 years'. OMG! So instead of looking 20 she looked 30? Add another 10 years and it would be time to put her in an assisted living facility to live out her final days.

The last thing I ever want to do is be or look 25 again. I have come a long way in 30 years and I do not want to re-plow old ground. I have moved on and in the process moved to a place of contentment. It really is better on this side of 40. Trust me. You've learned that not only is the grass not greener on the other side, you've learned it isn't grass at all. It is the deception and the false assumption being pushed that being flashy, and often inappropriate, is an acceptable substitute for sophistication elegance and poise. It is not. It is gauche; tres, tres gauche.

Busy -- Busy -- Busy

Okay, I have been a bit busier than I wanted to be with things that have absolutely nothing to do with fashion, runway shows, designers, etc. Family calls and of course, we all run to see what we can do to assist.

That said, one of the things that was so great about this little 2 1/2 month R&R was getting to spend some time with the dressmaker who got me started down this road; my mom. Of course there were a couple of sewing projects that I assisted on (and there are a couple more in the works). It seems that at 79 her eyes and hands aren't what they used to be. I had almost forgotten how strong your hands have to be when you begin to arduously tailor a jacket. The shaping and structure does not always happen easily. It especially does not happen easily when the client insists on a fabric that really isn't suited to the garment.

None the less, the client is always right and we aim to please. That said, I have to admit that I was remiss in my reporting on Fashion Week, NYC. I left out a designer who should be notably mentioned. Doo Ri. Not only is the collection great but the body of work (meaning technical) of this company is incredible.

One of this artisans you will search high and low for these days is a pattern maker. Guess what? Doo Ri has them and they farm their services out to other designers. They make custom pieces. They do custom tailoring. They really get what the industry is about.

Okay so you are now saying what about the European houses, especially the Italians? Well, I expect fine tailoring from them. It is an art form that still has some appeal in Europe and Asia. Here in the United States it is a lost art because it isn't seen as glamorous or high profile enough. People could not be more off base.

I will say it again, and again, and again. If you could go to your next cocktail party and when that inane question "What do you do?" comes up, out of your mouth flies "I am the head seamstress for Hermes." not one person will turn up their nose and dis you. Oh there may be that one idiot who doesn't understand who says "How nice". However, not one person who gets it will do that.

Jean-Paul Gaultier sketches a collection. He brings in Gigi to help with the fabric selections. Remy drafts the patterns. Collette cuts the garment. You supervise its construction. Because of the drape that Mr. Gaultier wanted and the resulting fabric selection, something just isn't working right on that sleeve. So you, the head seamstress gets to either re-cut or reshape the sleeve, even if it is ever so slight. Because you know your stuff, Mr. Gaultier yields to your expertise.

That my friends is power and authority. So the next time someone asks you if you want to learn to sew and you think to yourself, "why?", remember who really gets to say how the finished garment is constructed. Personally, if I were the head seamstress at Dior, Galliano, Hermes, de la Renta, Hererra, you name it . . . you couldn't hit me in the behind with a red apple.

Check out Doo Ri!!

a la prochaine.

Debra

Fillmore /Fall /Fashion......................

Fall is officially here and San Francisco is feeling the chill in the air ,whether we want to or not. As Debra has said I love fall and all it has to offer ..A great cup of Peet's coffee on an early
fogged in morning ,whether indoors or meeting a friend @ the Ferry Building !!

I know one must think I flew to NYC for the Runway shows...but actually I have been assisting
a manager of a resale shop in the city ,prepare for a Fall extravaganza in the familiar Fillmore
district of the city . Yes it has been a challenge ,because we are pulling outfits for various models
semi-professional , pacific heights residents ...young ,mature ,and established ..Also we are pulling a variety of outfits that reflect the shop and and the donations offered on a daily basis .
The event will take place on Saturday , Oct.3rd and there will be a 20.00 donation for wine and food tasting from the local vendors ..The streets will be blocked off for a few blocks and 2 members of The Fashion Project will be strutting their stuff ..Debra ..........Kenney and I will make you proud .!!!!!!!!!!Pictures to follow .

I have also been following the runway shows also...but I am not ready to cash in my bonds to
purchase that must have item .Those who lean towards the magazines , I thought the October
issue of Vogue was so uninteresting .After about a few run throughs ..I begin tearing out items
to add to my vision board...So, sad I haven't even got a paper cut . Oh ,yes do not subscribe to
W mag unless you have money to cast to the wind .

In the city...shopping at all the resale shops in San Francisco has been a parking lot !!!There are
throngs of shoppers of all ages .The most pleasant part of that atmosphere is to shop wisely,
because all sales are final .. Just a few tips ,begin to think out of the box..towards a purchase..
1) maybe just a change of buttons would help to update the jacket...............
2) check through the men's section for a possible down jacket that can fit /a large boy's size
3)hats are in big time...especially fedoras,bowlers..oh yeah they did have one good article on hats
in the recent vogue....a fine Hermes ...get it blocked and cleaned ,add a new band and you are in the loop !!
4) plaid shirts/black vests...I think you have the picture now .
5) Take along a list to keep focused and arise with a jewel........................

More to come ......along with an entry re; the American Designers Spring looks......................


A demain
Janice

On to London

Well as promised I spent the weekend reviewing the collections of the American designers who strutted their stuff at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in NYC. For the most part I found the collections to be pretty ho-hum. Don't get me wrong. Every single show had at least one piece that may you salivate. However, they also each had a piece that made you ask why.

The stand outs for me were Proenza Schouler, Isaac Mizrahi and, Badgley Mischa. All three of these collections managed to be fun, edgy, wearable, ageless and scream fashion. As I noted above, there were stand out pieces in each collection and Oscar, Carolina and Donna seemed to give you that standards that you could purchase and put in the closet as investments. There was absolutely nothing wrong with those collections. They gave me what I expected; fashion, quality, elegance and style.

However, for me that is what I do with fall/winter. Those are my 'go to' pieces. The pieces from the de la Renta's, Hererra's and Karan's for spring are those classic jackets and pants that get you through that luncheon meeting, that evening cruise on the harbor and the 'let me throw on something simple, stylish and elegant' moments. But for spring and summer, it is my chance to say 'take that!!'.

Proenza Schouler and Isaac Mizrahi managed to use shape and color and bring it to a new fashion art form. They choices were bright without being gaudy. They were soft without being fruffy. Most of all they were balanced without being safe. These two houses actually brought you those pieces you could add to 'pop' your closet. That one piece that is yet is not really you on your standard day but on that out of the box, in your face day, it is everything you would want to say to the world.

Badgley Mischa brought you that softly tailored, wearable look that is elegant yet not stuffy. It was easy to wear and easy to see on a variety of body types and across a wide section of age groups. They designed a collection that was easy to accessorize and make it your own. The use of black and white, the mixing of shapes and the drape of the garments was incredible; at least to me.

Janice is going to weigh in on the American crew also. I have moved on to London. That is where fashion week is today and for the next week or so. My only question is whether or not Tim Blanks is going to ease up on any of the design houses he is reviewing. He described Graeme Black's collection as 'putting a woman on the red carpet 24/7'. Sorry Tim. Just because I want to look great and make a statement doesn't mean I am on the red carpet. Maybe it means that I don't dress like a bum. Maybe I like silk. Maybe I love being fashionable. Maybe I would love to be seen as classically elegant and always pulled together.

He also pretty much panned Osman, Fahri and Anastase. I think the collections simply were not to his liking. I on the other hand at least did not find them staid as I did many of the American collections. Maybe this is even more evidence that I am a real fan of European fashion and think that American women are being cheated by having so little exposure to the varying levels of European fashion in the States.

As time goes on we will go from London to Milan and then to PARIS. I am also going to give you some of the 411 on the collections that will show at Pret-A-Porter. They should be starting up in a week or so also. Then of course, I am here in Bellevue for Fashion week. Even though it is technically a series of 'trunk shows' it is an exciting fashion event and worth checking out.

So, if any of our readers are in the Seattle area, check out the happenings in Bellevue Square and the surrounding area. Also, give a shout out to the man who had the vision and keeps it, Kemper Freeman. He is Fashion Week in Bellevue and everyone should thank him for putting it on the fashion map.

More to come.

a la prochaine

Debra

I Long for the Fall Shows

Hi Everyone,

I have been half-heartedly looking at the runway shows for Spring/Summer 2010. As I clicked through the slide shows, I was sadly reminded how much richer I, personally, find fall and winter fashions. It could be that I grew up in a place where, typically, summer clothing was not necessary. Here in the Pacific Northwest (much like in San Francisco) you can get away with a multi-purpose wardrobe. That said, I will be more diligent over the weekend at looking at the runway shows and expounding of fashion week.

For now I want to say a little more about what everyone needs to have at their disposal for this current season. Sadly, we are in need of a boost, economically, before we start dropping thousands of dollars on those incredible pieces (say that cashmere coat). So for most of us, it is going to be that search for the accessories that will give the current collection in our closet a face lift. I know I blogged about this earlier, but it is important. ACCESSORIES ARE KEY!!!

I am not suggesting that everyone go out and buy accessories for the sake of buying accessories. Figure out what you want your signature to be. Are you going to be known in your circle as the person who has incredible necklaces, pendants, etc.? Are you the bangle queen? Do you have a scarf for every occasion? Do you wear killer hose that really pop your outfits? Are you the "Bag, Borrow or Steal" for all of your friends (and no you cannot ask to borrow the Ferragamo bag, the Marc Jacobs yes, but not the Ferragamo)!? Do your shoes make everyone go nuts because you have the greatest collection ever (including boots)?

So I think you get my point. It is once again about being you. If you think the new Fendi bag is just not going to do it for you, don't get it because every fashion mag says you should not be seen without it. If those Louboutin's are just not to your liking, I don't care if your friends are all looking for shoes with red soles, leave them at the store. Nike's slogan is 'just do it'. For us the clarion call is 'just do you'!

Here is what I suggest, take out three outfits at a time. (Remember that we did the closet scrub and it is in pretty decent shape). Lay the outfits out on the bed and put the typical accessories you pair with them on the outfits. Now think of one additional, or replacement accessory that would be really nice. For me, I have this metallic bronze 3/4 sleeve leather jacket. It has large covered buttons for closures. I purchased a pair of chocolate brown elbow length leather gloves to go with it. It is a subtle look. So now I am going to pop it with a more colorful and vibrant pair of leather gloves. (No not black. That is too easy).

If you feel that you cannot do this (purchase the new accessories) with the outfit on the bed, do what I often do. Get out the garment bag that I know you have. We all have them. (I have them from Saks, Nordstrom, Neiman's, Macy's, Galaries Lafeyette, Le Bon Marche, Harrod's you name it, I probably have the bag). Place the entire outfit in the bag and haul it around with you. As long as you are not trying to match colors, find a new jacket, etc. the sales associates will be happy to help you find just the right scarf, gloves, hat, etc.

Here is the added bonus to the pack and haul approach. If the outfit is hanging in your closet, the assumption is that it is ready to wear. That means clean, pressed, steamed, etc. I know the temptation to hang that garment back in the closet and say, I'll get it to the dry cleaner's next week. Don't do that. You'll forget. Out of sight, out of mind really is true.

Invest in a chair to place by the front door. Loving drape the garment over the chair and when there are three garments on the chair (that is a pretty unsightly greeting as you return to your palace after a long day) you will be forced to scoop them up on your next outing and drop them off. Do not hang them in the hall closet either. Only ready to go clothes should be on hangers taking up room in the closet.

So, start figuring out your signature and 'just do you'!

a la prochaine

Debra

Puttin' On the Ritz!!

The high end has finally arrived in the Pacific Northwest. Over the weekend, Bravern Center, in Bellevue, Washington opened boasting the first Neiman Marcus in the area. There were galas and very excited shoppers who were chomping at the bit to get a taste of luxury shopping at its best. I dare say they were not disappointed.

Local press covered the event and reported that there were those who had budgeted funds just to do a bit of shopping during the opening weekend. However, when I read that one woman had budgeted $100 to spend on cosmetics at Neiman Marcus, I wondered what exactly she was going to purchase. Another reported having saved money for a designer handbag. Her budget was between $850 and $1250. Again, I cringed. Not a lot of handbags, produced by the designers she was going to find at any of the shops at Bravern were going to be available at that price.

This is Nordstrom country. This is their backyard. This is where corporate headquarters happens to be along with the Nordstrom family. Until this past weekend, they were the highest ranking retail department store in town. Having spoken with a few people who graced the opening, I believe that Nordstrom is not going to lose many customers to the newly placed retail boutiques in Bravern Center. There was a great deal of sticker shock among the brave souls who ventured out to get a taste of 'designer label heaven'.

So to all of the press who are writing articles and generating newscasts indicating that Nordstrom now has some competition, please think again. Other than Piazza Sempione, Hermes and a couple of artisan bakeries, the offerings are already in the area.

If there is an avowed Louis Vuitton customer, they have already fled Nordstrom and gone to Fifth Avenue in Seattle to the Louis Vuitton boutique. They can already hop across the street and gander at the offerings at Gucci. It is true that Neiman's is going to carry some designers that are not in the current line up at Nordstrom but so what? It will be easy to hang on to the Nordstrom customer. That is still one of the anchors at Bellevue Square, which is three blocks west of Bravern Center, on NE 8th in Bellevue.

I personally hope that Bravern Center is a success. It is high time that a greater selection of luxury offerings were available to the shoppers of this area. However, I also have some suggestions for the company that owns Bellevue Square and the Bellevue Collection. No, I am not going to post those suggestions on this blog. I am going to send a private letter. Mr. Freeman deserves some degree of confidentiality and who knows, he may really like my suggestions.

Now that I have gotten that out of the way, I will acknowledge that Mercedes Benz Fashion Week is in full swing in NYC. I have been following the shows on-line this fashion season. I will begin reporting on the collections later this week. However, as you all know, I have always been a bit curious as to why Fall Fashion Week (meaning held in the fall and showing the collections for spring and summer of 2010) is always the big draw. I love fall fashion so for me the Fashion Weeks not to be missed begin in January.

Just the same, I know we must all dress for spring and summer. I will be fair and judicious in my comments. We'll start with NYC and work our way to Paris. For all of those who are wondering if I am having a bit of withdrawal (or downright depression) covering the events via the Internet instead of in person, the answer is yes. But, you have to do what you have to do. We, The Fashion Project, will be back in the saddle soon enough. Come January, we will be there, in person, in force and in style.

a la prochaine!!

Debra

HELP!!!!!

Okay gang, today I saw it all. Part of me is remembering how 'challenged' some women are when it comes to getting dressed. I will say it over and over and over until all of you get it. FINISH THE LOOK!!!!!!!

Why do you go to the trouble of buying this great skirt, the perfect blouse, the killer jacket and stop there? What about all the accessories that are going to pull this together. I can hear you now. You have that scarf from three years ago that sort of goes with everything and the earrings that are sort of okay and a belt from the 80's (and I am not taking 1880's which would make it interesting). Stop right now.

Rather than buying a new outfit, buy accessories. That's right go crazy and if you are going to spend $1,000, spend it on shoes, bags, scarves, belts, gloves, etc. You get the picture. That is a much better investment.

Also, as I have said before. black is not black is not black. Likewise, navy is not navy is not navy. Match everything ladies or go with a contrasting color if you cannot match colors. It is a much cleaner look at the end of the day.

Finally, black pumps do not go with everything. They do not, they do not, they do not!!!!! Please do not wear black shoes with a navy skirt or pants. Try taupe, a rich medium brown, burgundy, grey anything. Just stay away from black. Not only does it look bad it looks lazy. It seems as if you were too tired to look for the right shoes to go with your outfit.

And I know they say that your bag and shoes do not have to match but I am old school. Do not carry a black bag while wearing navy shoes. If you want an all purpose color that you can grab and go with select red. Make it an over-sized clutch or a briefcase style bag. That allows you to get away with the bright color and the not really matching your shoes.

Be bold but do not be out there. Make sure you would not be ashamed if you met yourself on the street. You never know how may be lurking around the corner.

a la prochaine

Debra

Fall Fashion Previews

I am literally crawling out from under all the Fall Fashion Magazines !!!!If you subscribe I am
sure you do not have to worry about missing out on your hand weights routine ! As usual they have hit the newsstands and mailboxes and are fully loaded
I usually flip page by page and look for my favorite designers .Just a hint which is not a mystery, the high rollers are mostly on the first 25 pages,the designers with the ching !!Advertising is quite expensive .No ,articles the first time around !!! On my second time I look for
my favorite ,musthaves,additions to my "WANT IT " LIST... and unconsciously ,the fashionista will shake their head @ future ,immediate items headed for the markdown rack ! I can't help it...
it is just in us .I am sure Debra and Kenney can concur .
Once I have ooh and aah a couple of times ,I will dogeared the pages .Even growing up on the East Coast ,there was always something special about fall clothes .The hues, the rustic fall colors , the patterns and blends of fabrics that seem to pop out from the pages .
As I had mentioned in my last entry ...boots are off the charts this year .But please have your outfit well pulled together before you sport your grand investment . There is nothing worse than
to have on your sporty boots whatever style you purchased and you have pulled out from the very back of your closet an distorted look that may only match the boots in color if anything!!!!!!!
Bad choice !!!!Please take time to look at your revised closet and rearrange some looks on a Saturday afternoon ,and try it on totally .You will be surprised to see you have the looks to pull
it all together and if not , you will know what to add to our list.
This is just a first in a series.................It actually took a lot out of me to write about fall on the
possibly the hottest day in San Francisco .The humidity is over the top .We usually call it earthquake weather . People everywhere are lounging@ the cafes,front steps and open windows
trying to find a breeze .Time for a iced tea .
A demain ,
Janice

Not So Bad Afterall

Hello from the great Pacific Northwest!!!

Well fashion is a bit different here. It is not as I remember. Having left the area to pursue my own path over 20 years ago, it is interesting to be back as more than a visitor. The sights and sounds that I remember are still here and the sleepy little town that I left is now a bustling metropolis. As you make your way between Seattle (the main city in the area) and the Eastside (which is the land of Microsoft) it is really great to see the entire persona of the area shift.

I grew up on the Westside (in Seattle) and twelve years ago, my parents packed in city life and moved to the burbs. At the time everyone was horrified. However, I must say that being able to escape the city and get into an area where there are trees, open spaces and neighbors at a distance is great. Okay, I am only a 10 minute drive from downtown Seattle so I am not remotely located in West "get me out of here".

One of the great things is being able to check out the site of one of the divisions of the Fashion Project. It has always been our intention of locating the multi-label showroom in Bellevue. Until this trip, I had some reservations. The intent was based on my father's assessment of where it would be best to capitalize on the love of fashion, the availability of customers and of course, the access to money.

Okay, there are a lot of Microsoft people here and they are not hurting for resources. But what I did not realize is the number of women who have time in their days to do nothing but hang out and shop. It is great. I went into a Nordstrom Rack at 11 AM on a Friday morning and it was packed with the line going out the door. This told me all I, and the rest of the Fashion Project Team needed to know. A multi-label showroom, open to the trade and to the public wholesale+ will be an incredible venture here.

Not only are there women into fashion, they are into the art of the bargain. In the right location we can also capture the women from Seattle who are willing to make that 10 to 30 minute trip across the pond (Lake Washington) to get that great Balenciaga at a great price. Not only that, I need to 'brave up' and see if I can get an appointment with Kemper Freeman and have a discussion about his love of fashion and his willingness to be a sounding board, participant and part of this great venture.

Fashion Week in Bellevue is sponsored by Mr. Freeman, who is of all things, a real estate developer. I'd love to have some insight as to what triggered his love of fashion and how he melds it with his love of development. However, he may be just like me.

There is a beauty and simplicity in the design of a building or a complex. Underlying the simplicity that everyone sees is an intricacy that you would only recognize if you truly understood the beast. Maybe it is the same as the sweep of an archway or the curve of the treatment of a great skirt, or the combination of a series of building to form a beautiful complex or the seven easy pieces that allow you to build a wardrobe using system dressing. Whatever it is, Mr. Freeman brings the women of Bellevue an incredible fashion experience each fall.

Okay it is not a preview of what is coming in spring. It is actually a series of trunk shows featuring the fashions that are available for the current season. While for those of us in the industry, it may be a technical blunder, we need to remember that we are a privileged few who get to go to runway shows, hang out at showrooms and brush elbows with those who know what is coming. The rest of the world sees snippets of what is coming by browsing through magazines and logging onto websites to see clips from runway shows. Mr. Freeman puts them all front-row, center and gives them the fashion thrill they all seek.

So as I continue to settle in for the next couple of weeks, I will keep you abreast of 'fashion in the Pacific Northwest'. I will also say this; if Mr. Freeman desires to make Bellevue the fashion capital of the west coast, I am willing to help him do that. This is home for me and frankly, while the scene in LA is vibrant, bustling and established, this is the land of Nordstrom, Inc.; it is the land of Microsoft; it is a place with an extremely independent, can do attitude. Frankly, being a Pacific Northwest girl, we can take LA, no problem. All we need to do is band together and make the statement that Bellevue is fashion's new Mecca on the west coast.

We will take this one step at a time. First LA, then New York. We will leave Paris and Milan alone. They will always be fashion. However, maybe with the love Mr. Freeman has for fashion and my unstoppable (and yes somewhat over-the-top) belief that this really is the place, who knows? It could happen.

a la prochaine
Debra
posting from Bellevue

The Importance of Being Earnest

Again, I know this is a fashion blog but this is an important post. The Importance of Being Earnest was penned by Oscar Wilde. There are many interpretations of the meaning of the title. To me it is about knowing yourself. It is about having the courage to face who and what you must face. It is about being able to stand in the face of everything you revile and move through it anyway.

Starting next week, I will be blogging from a different venue. I am going to park myself in Bellevue, Washington for a while. It will give me the chance to regroup and figure some things out. It will give me a much needed respite from the rigors of putting together the Fashion Project. I admit that I am tired and that I need some serious R&R.

Janice will still be blogging from San Francisco and Kenny will post photos, some day. So I am going to hang out at the Bellevue Collection, play in the land of Microsoft and enjoy the water and mountains that surround the Puget Sound region. It will be a different fashion perspective so it should be good for all of you readers.

So ladies as you make your investments this fall, remember that you need to be true to yourselves. Don't go for something because one of the fashion magazines says it is all the rage or because Janice, or I, think it is great. If it isn't your cup of tea, let it go. That is allowed.

So in my attempt to be 'earnest' I am going to do my best to get back in the saddle ASAP. I am going to forge ahead with my dreams and I am going to be kind to myself. This is the me time I have so greatly needed. I will be in the company of the dressmaker who got me started down this road many years ago. When you need some TLC what better place to go than home.
Okay, Saks works too; but, it will cost you more.

a la prochaine.