Well as promised I spent the weekend reviewing the collections of the American designers who strutted their stuff at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in NYC. For the most part I found the collections to be pretty ho-hum. Don't get me wrong. Every single show had at least one piece that may you salivate. However, they also each had a piece that made you ask why.
The stand outs for me were Proenza Schouler, Isaac Mizrahi and, Badgley Mischa. All three of these collections managed to be fun, edgy, wearable, ageless and scream fashion. As I noted above, there were stand out pieces in each collection and Oscar, Carolina and Donna seemed to give you that standards that you could purchase and put in the closet as investments. There was absolutely nothing wrong with those collections. They gave me what I expected; fashion, quality, elegance and style.
However, for me that is what I do with fall/winter. Those are my 'go to' pieces. The pieces from the de la Renta's, Hererra's and Karan's for spring are those classic jackets and pants that get you through that luncheon meeting, that evening cruise on the harbor and the 'let me throw on something simple, stylish and elegant' moments. But for spring and summer, it is my chance to say 'take that!!'.
Proenza Schouler and Isaac Mizrahi managed to use shape and color and bring it to a new fashion art form. They choices were bright without being gaudy. They were soft without being fruffy. Most of all they were balanced without being safe. These two houses actually brought you those pieces you could add to 'pop' your closet. That one piece that is yet is not really you on your standard day but on that out of the box, in your face day, it is everything you would want to say to the world.
Badgley Mischa brought you that softly tailored, wearable look that is elegant yet not stuffy. It was easy to wear and easy to see on a variety of body types and across a wide section of age groups. They designed a collection that was easy to accessorize and make it your own. The use of black and white, the mixing of shapes and the drape of the garments was incredible; at least to me.
Janice is going to weigh in on the American crew also. I have moved on to London. That is where fashion week is today and for the next week or so. My only question is whether or not Tim Blanks is going to ease up on any of the design houses he is reviewing. He described Graeme Black's collection as 'putting a woman on the red carpet 24/7'. Sorry Tim. Just because I want to look great and make a statement doesn't mean I am on the red carpet. Maybe it means that I don't dress like a bum. Maybe I like silk. Maybe I love being fashionable. Maybe I would love to be seen as classically elegant and always pulled together.
He also pretty much panned Osman, Fahri and Anastase. I think the collections simply were not to his liking. I on the other hand at least did not find them staid as I did many of the American collections. Maybe this is even more evidence that I am a real fan of European fashion and think that American women are being cheated by having so little exposure to the varying levels of European fashion in the States.
As time goes on we will go from London to Milan and then to PARIS. I am also going to give you some of the 411 on the collections that will show at Pret-A-Porter. They should be starting up in a week or so also. Then of course, I am here in Bellevue for Fashion week. Even though it is technically a series of 'trunk shows' it is an exciting fashion event and worth checking out.
So, if any of our readers are in the Seattle area, check out the happenings in Bellevue Square and the surrounding area. Also, give a shout out to the man who had the vision and keeps it, Kemper Freeman. He is Fashion Week in Bellevue and everyone should thank him for putting it on the fashion map.
More to come.
a la prochaine
Debra
Monday, September 21, 2009
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