Busy -- Busy -- Busy

Okay, I have been a bit busier than I wanted to be with things that have absolutely nothing to do with fashion, runway shows, designers, etc. Family calls and of course, we all run to see what we can do to assist.

That said, one of the things that was so great about this little 2 1/2 month R&R was getting to spend some time with the dressmaker who got me started down this road; my mom. Of course there were a couple of sewing projects that I assisted on (and there are a couple more in the works). It seems that at 79 her eyes and hands aren't what they used to be. I had almost forgotten how strong your hands have to be when you begin to arduously tailor a jacket. The shaping and structure does not always happen easily. It especially does not happen easily when the client insists on a fabric that really isn't suited to the garment.

None the less, the client is always right and we aim to please. That said, I have to admit that I was remiss in my reporting on Fashion Week, NYC. I left out a designer who should be notably mentioned. Doo Ri. Not only is the collection great but the body of work (meaning technical) of this company is incredible.

One of this artisans you will search high and low for these days is a pattern maker. Guess what? Doo Ri has them and they farm their services out to other designers. They make custom pieces. They do custom tailoring. They really get what the industry is about.

Okay so you are now saying what about the European houses, especially the Italians? Well, I expect fine tailoring from them. It is an art form that still has some appeal in Europe and Asia. Here in the United States it is a lost art because it isn't seen as glamorous or high profile enough. People could not be more off base.

I will say it again, and again, and again. If you could go to your next cocktail party and when that inane question "What do you do?" comes up, out of your mouth flies "I am the head seamstress for Hermes." not one person will turn up their nose and dis you. Oh there may be that one idiot who doesn't understand who says "How nice". However, not one person who gets it will do that.

Jean-Paul Gaultier sketches a collection. He brings in Gigi to help with the fabric selections. Remy drafts the patterns. Collette cuts the garment. You supervise its construction. Because of the drape that Mr. Gaultier wanted and the resulting fabric selection, something just isn't working right on that sleeve. So you, the head seamstress gets to either re-cut or reshape the sleeve, even if it is ever so slight. Because you know your stuff, Mr. Gaultier yields to your expertise.

That my friends is power and authority. So the next time someone asks you if you want to learn to sew and you think to yourself, "why?", remember who really gets to say how the finished garment is constructed. Personally, if I were the head seamstress at Dior, Galliano, Hermes, de la Renta, Hererra, you name it . . . you couldn't hit me in the behind with a red apple.

Check out Doo Ri!!

a la prochaine.

Debra