To Continue the View

Well once again there are five collections that are on the block. For some reason I keep picking three from Paris and two from Milan. I will try to change that up as we move through these reviews.

I have to admit that my view of the collections is influenced by my desire to see designers begin to embrace all women as opposed to women of a certain age (20). For that reason, we welcome your comments. This is a fashion blog and we want to be sure that we are representing fashion across the board and not just what we like.



So - - - to start, let's talk about A. Vandervorst. An Vandervorst and Filip Arickx sent a collection down the runway that was definitely in keeping with the season. As it started out in NYC it was clear the theme was going to be 'sheer' and lingerie as an outer garment. If it isn't being worn as an outer garment it is at least pretty enough to be viewed through a sheer blouse or even skirt. The confounding aspect for me was the use of hose to cinch pants.



When I was a kid and hose were the rage (not pantyhose but the sheer hose that needed garters to secure them in place) it was strictly taboo to have the tops show. How gauche and what type of woman were you if your skirt was so short that the tops of you stockings were visible?



Well fear no more. Vandervorst has solved that problem. Pull on your hose and use them as a statement of sheerness. It was also interesting that there was not a lot of color. It was a very neutral collection that played well on many complexions. In it's defense, it was easy and when placed in production and worn on the streets, the whole 'art' of the collection will be tamed and it will play well on the streets. For those who are more modest, a great tank or chemise will do the trick.



There are some outerwear pieces that are great. The use of chunky sweater knits and off the shoulder presentation gave everything a very fresh and easy look. There were also some presentations that gave the impression of one-shoulder garments. You need to check out the ingenious use of sheer and opaque to create this look. If you are a home sewer, there is a lot of food for thought in this collection.



Now I am about to commit sacrilege. Nicholas Ghesquiere usually hits it out of the park. This time there were a couple of pieces and one of the many hoodies would be great to have to use on a cool spring evening. However, the absence of any evening or cocktail wear was a disappointment for me. I really think that it is one of the things he does best.



If you want a very casual, pulled together street look, this is you. It is somewhere between ski and jeans only. There was color, mostly blues and greens and yellows that formed very geometric or rather graphic presentations. It just seemed as though for this season there was an attempt to achieve an understated look.



In my eye it was casual, sporty and somewhat boring. I don't need 10 hoodies. I need a couple. I also want them to make different statements. These all said the same thing. I really think that if the fabrics were changed you could use these outfits for speed skaters. I am no longer interested in looking that casual.

I am waiting for the Nicholas Ghesquiere of Balenciaga to return for Fall 2010. I want to see if this continues or if he gets back on the horse and gives us wow. If he doesn't, well I guess I will have to find a way to readjust my view of who and what Mr. Ghesquiere is and how the House of Balenciaga will change in the future.

Let's hop down to Milan for a moment. Muccia Prada is an icon. The label is iconic. However, in my estimation, the label is also in need of some umph! For the past few seasons I have been praying that Prada does something that has such a 'wow' factor that it shuts all of us up who are waiting for the label to fade into the sunset. Once again, for me, it did not happen.

The adage is that it is not how you start but how you finish. As the daughter of a dressmaker that is so, so true. The finishing is everything. I was taught that when you turn a garment inside-out it should be as beautiful as it is on the finished side. To me that means you have actually hemmed the garment. Prada disagrees with me on that point.

Jackets, pants, skirts, tops, underpinnings all had raw edges for hemlines. Those that were hemmed were hemmed in such a way as to show you exactly how deep the hem was and it just seemed wrong. Do you know how many hems my mother made me rip out because you could see the stitching on the right side of the fabric? Do you know how many time I was asked "did you face that hem or use seam tape"? The head seamstress at Prada did not ask those questions. She did not ask, "will that edge fray over time?"

That aside, the cuts and lines were interesting. For the most part the collection was wearable but not 'wow' (except for the unfinished look). I am just not a Prada garment fan. But - - - if you had the thrill of going to the accessory shows, there are some really hot Prada bags, shoes and boots.

Michael Kors has taken that unmistakable Prada heel and applied it to some of his shoes and it is a great look. If you are not sure which heel I am talking about you saw it over and over again the the movie (duh) The Devil Wears Prada. Meryl Streep wore the heck out of those shoes. And, if you are a faithful follower, you know that Janice and I happen to be boot junkies. Boots are like drugs for us. A new pair of boots is an instant fix for whatever ails you. Prada can help you get your fix.

I want Prada to make a huge comeback. I think that the label is important to the industry and something would be missing on the runways of Milan if it were to fade into the sunset. But alas, I am not the definitive authority on the fate of any fashion label. I have my likes and dislikes. I have my opinions. You have yours. So, go to the runway show on line and tell us what you think.
We could be completely wrong. Even if we are wrong you will not see me giving any retailer $2,000 for a jacket that has no hem!

Since I am now on a rant let's go back to Paris for a moment. Rei Kawakubo is a self-proclaimed adult delinquent. She said so in an interview. I think she has no filters. I think she is 'p'd o' about something. Commes des Garcons was at one time an edgy collection that was on one hand shocking and the other stunning. In my estimation it has now gone to really bad fashion student project status. Let's get Rei to a point where she is happy and creating instead of making statements.

At some point you need to put the costume aspect of the designing aside and remember that the name of the game is to develop a following and sell garments. The master of this concept is Vivienne Westwood. Ms. Kawakubo missed the mark. She has gone to pure costume mode with this collection.

Okay, toning down my rant, this collection is either really fashion forward (as in beyond our current ability to even conceptualize the trend) or a statement about something equally incomprehensible. Is it a statement about the 80's? Is it a statement that we will buy anything if it is labeled hot and trendy? Is it Rei Kawakubo's way of telling us that she is tired of the status quo and the industry needs to do something else? I don't know.

On this one I really need some reader input. I need a few of you to watch this show and tell me what is being presented. I could read what the folks at Style.com have to say but again, that is just one opinion. I need to hear lots of them and look at this collection again.

And now for the last collection for today --- Gabriele Colangelo. Again, I am getting another "who" from our readers. Gabriele Colangelo; Italian; got a walk at Fashion Week, Milan; unlucky time slot (late on Friday afternoon); HIT IT OUT OF THE PARK!!!!

Attendees of fashion weeks pick and choose. There are the must see collections (In Milan it is Armani, Versace, Botega Venetta, Dolce & Gabanna, etc.). Gabriele Colangelo most likely was not on the list of 'must attends' for many buyers. The joke was on them. After the collection went down the runway (in their absence) they were in need of an appointment at the showroom to view the collection. If they were smart they hunted down a telephone number and that is exactly what they did. It should have been one of the busiest showrooms in Milan, post fashion week.

My standard bearers for Italian design houses are Ferre and Valentino (yes, Valentino has a design house and showrooms in Milan). I cannot imagine that either house would hesitate if Colangelo asked to design a couple of pieces for them. The collection was easy, elegant, wearable and has broad appeal. He clearly, like Valentino and Ferre, likes women.

The palate was muted and easy to add to an existing wardrobe. The pieces ran the gamut from classic to trendy, giving you the option to spice up something you already have in your closet or add a piece that will serve you for years. The collection has that great balance between relevant today and standing the test of time.

I would imagine that many an Italian woman (or any woman) would look at the pieces in the collection and say "I could wear that" or "Oh how fun and comfortable". For me there were a couple of pieces where I questioned the proportions and the volume of fabric used in the garment. Yet, even with those questions, those pieces were wearable on the right person. I am looking forward to seeing many, many more collections from this young designer.

Okay gang, I am going to take a day off to do some things and get back to the review on Monday. So - - - -

a la prochaine

Debra