And Now To Start

IN MEMORY OF MY UNCLE CECIL ANDREW COLLINS

APRIL 24 1928 - OCTOBER 28 2009

Hello Faithful Readers,

As promised, I am here to begin the journey through the world of fashion that was shown on the runways in London, Milan and Paris. I did post a few comments on shows that were somehow standouts (for various reasons). Now I am going to take a few days to deal with the remaining fashion houses and labels.

I am going to do this over several days as we (the family) need a bit of something to distract us over the next week or so. The events of the past couple of months have taught me that time marches on and torches are passed to the next standard bearers. As it is in families when patriarchs and matriarchs pass on, so it is with fashion. The important thing is to remember who you are and hang on to the roots that were so lovingly passed to you to pass to those who will come after you.

During our last conversation, my uncle asked me about the project and how it was going. His advice was to keep at it. That is exactly what I intend to do. I am going to keep at it and in time, The Fashion Project will be a huge success.

With that said, here we go. Today we are going to get into two collections that were shown in Milan and three that were shown in Paris. I know at this rate it will take over a month to get through everything. Well, sit back and relax. That is not a bad thing. The merchandise will not be arriving until March so we have some time.

Who out there has heard of or owns any Ann Demeulemeester? I don't have one single piece. I don't think the collection lacks merit; I simply do not lean toward her style. For spring it is possibly the most sophisticated Goth I have ever seen. I will admit that I am of an age where I don't get Goth and seeing young people draped in black with piercings and dark make up unnerves me a bit. But, if I had a daughter or niece who was seriously into Goth, I would run straight to this label.

If you are going to adopt a 'culture' you need to do it in a way that will still allow you to stand out among the millions who share your enthusiasm for the look. Ann Demeulemeester will definitely allow that. I am not talking about the obvious long black reefer or trench coat accessorized with Docs and torn hose. I am talking absolutely stunning, well put together outfits that you could actually dress up and take for a spin around the block.

The comments you would get are thing such as "I think it's Goth, but I am not really sure. It was really sophisticated" and "did you see Debra's niece? Who was she wearing. It was really Goth but hot!" Even I would don some of the jackets and being a fan of the interesting, there are pieces I would add to my wardrobe just for shock value. Just imagine hearing, "that's so not like you." Well that is the point. It is like me. It is like me the day I decide to look a bit more edgy. One Goth piece does not make one part of the Goth culture. It makes you willing to branch out.

In stark contrast was Bluemarine. Anna Molinari is a genius. The collection is soft and flowing; it is ladylike and full of everything that says spring. The colors are pastel but intense and concentrated enough to let you know that the colors are there but not so intense that you are running for shades. It is a collection that really resonated with me.

For those of you who are saying 'yuk' Anna took care of you also. Included in the collection is a fair amount of tailored clothing that is reminiscent of safari wear. It is clean, it is casual but at the same time elegant. If you happened to be out for the afternoon and a couple of friends said, let's go to dinner, you would be able to feel very comfortable walking into any restaurant.

I found that the appeal of this collection was the fact that at my age, I would feel comfortable in many of the pieces. It may be a bit staid for someone who is extremely fashion forward. Of course, if that is what you are looking for, go to the softer side of Demeulemeester. There are some drapy pants in large prints (muted greys, white and black outlines) that would play to your edgy character. For me, it was the softness of the dress, the flow of a skirt and the beautiful statement of spring that made this collection stellar.

Let's stay in Paris for a moment and talk about Balmain. Well the Balmain of old was military, tailored, classic. The Balmain of today is still military, a bit less tailored and in some respects far from classic. Christophe Decarnin has perfected the military jacket with epaulets. He has also perfected a look that can only be called, Rock Star.

Alas, it is now time to talk about age appropriate dressing. A couple of the jackets I could pull off, but at 55, I think I would look a bit desperate trying to put entire outfits together. It just wouldn't play as well on me as it would on someone 15 or 20 years younger. With some of the outfits, even they would have a tough time.

The use of fabrics was incredible. There are metallics, sheers, etc. that were combined to make really great looking ensembles. Metallic military jackets while impractical for combat are the perfect item for that night out with the gang. Even if you opted for just the jacket, what a statement to pair with any jeans. There were some metallic and lace dresses (very short) that would be great tunics over a pair of skinny jeans. It is the perfect way to take day into evening and feel chic, edgy and more fashion forward than the rest of the crowd.

The next two collections are truly multi-generational. By that I mean that there were pieces in each collection for someone irrespective of age. In Milan, Roberto Remondi, of Gianfranco Ferre, put together a collection that was incredibly beautiful. I was impressed and I dare say that Gianfranco himself would have taken the time to give Mr. Remondi a bow.

True to the house of Gianfranco Ferre, the colors were muted and minimal. The styles were feminine yet tailored (tailoring goes beyond suits and coats ladies). Most importantly, they were extremely wearable. The suits were soft and with the lengthening of a skirt could be worn by my me and my mother as well as my nieces. The details were great and the finishing was incredible. I was again reminded why the House of Gianfranco Ferre holds such appeal for me.

Before you say 'oh God, another retreat into the past' take a look at some of the pieces. There are a couple of cocktail dresses that were very beautiful and fashion forward. No they would not play well on someone over 50, but they have real appeal. Not only would it be great to see them on the runway, it would be great to see them at that summer cocktail party where you need to wow a client or make an impression on a group of people. And being the daughter of a dressmaker, I already know what I would do to the dress to make it 'age appropriate' for me.

It is all about the look, the feel and the mystery for me. Gianfranco Ferre always brought that to fashion and now, through Mr. Remondi, it is happening again. I am eagerly awaiting the Fall collection.

Last but not least, Andrew Gn. Okay, I know what everyone is saying. "Who is Andrew Gn?" Well ladies get ready to make him a household name. I happen to think he is brilliant. This is a designer, who like Mr. Remondi, realizes that fashion is enjoyed and deserved whether you are 28 or 88 and whether you can pull off a strapless gown/dress or not.

No he has not hidden women with figure challenges away in mounds of fabric. He has taken his knowledge and crafted jackets, skirts, dresses, etc. to make sure that if my mother has an event to attend, she can purchase something from the current season and not feel that she needs thousands of dollars of 'work' before she puts the garment on.

I loved the suits with the puffy sleeved jackets. I loved the entire feminine look of the collection. It was a bit more colorful than some of the others in Paris but it was beautiful. In my advancing years I have come to appreciate the ability of people to adapt. Mr. Gn has adapted fashion so that any woman who wishes to play can do so, in his collection.

So there is the scoop for today. I don't know what Nicole Phelps or anyone else said about these collections. It really doesn't matter. It is entirely possible that each was panned. If they were, I have made my point.

Fashion is a matter of individual taste. Mine is not yours and yours is not your friends. So everyone, go out there and look at what went down the runways for Spring 2010. If you don't find something to your liking, I would be shocked. Absolutely everything was out there. Take some time and browse.

a la prochaine

Debra