More from the Runways

Once again I have returned to provide some commentary on the runways. We have decided to look at some of the more well known designers today. That may provide everyone with a better comfort level and get everyone a bit more excited about the fashion that is on the horizon for spring.

Mr. Lagerfeld clearly decided to continue his theme from the Fall collection. Looking fresh and clean (though spotted with hay) there was a decided easy and country feel to the collection. It was as elegant as the landed gentry look that was introduced for Fall 2009, and as subtle with the use of color.

There were muted tweeds and plaids, and soft shades of beige, coral and pink blended into ensembles that were structured but feminine. Ruffles were used to add volume to texture and volume to jackets while skirts were kept minimal (with regard to shape and fit). In describing the jackets to someone I tried to get them to picture taking the classic Chanel jacket, cropping the sleeve at the elbow and encrusting it with soft organza or chiffon ruffles.

If there were misses for me it was in the dresses, which were a little to "Bo Peep" for me and some of the outerwear that while inspired, wasn't paired to my liking. There was also a black suit with a head-scarf that to me was a bit of 'nuns gone wrong'. I would definitely lose the scarf and maybe ditch the classic Lagerfeld glove look before taking this one on a spin around the block.

It is a very large collection (72 looks going down the runway) which meant that there was something for everyone. There were some great white shirts, a couple of wonderful skirts and of course, the classic Chanel jacket made relevant for today. The contrasting textures made for interesting looks though I must say that for me, some of the pairings of lace with heavy tweed and boucles seemed a bit off balance.

But, as it has been stated many times in this blog, my individual taste is not the issue. It was by all counts an inspired collection. Karl Lagerfeld is one of the most prolific designers in the industry producing content for not only his own label and Chanel but also for Fendi. To put 72 looks on the runway for Chanel alone is amazing.

Okay, I know he has help but ultimately he is the one who decides what the collection looks like and how it is themed. Tying Spring 2010 to Fall 2009 was brilliant in many ways. Even the selection of fabrics and colors (considering the weight and textures) was brilliant. If you happen to have purchased a pair of Chanel pants or a Chanel skirt from the Fall collection, you will have no problem pulling up a jacket from Spring to pair with it to give it a lighter, more jaunty feel.

Clearly Jean Paul Gaultier was in the mood for tennis. However, some of the outfits would be outlawed at Wimbledon due to the very un-British use of 'color'. I loved it. I know that I touched briefly on the collection in a previous post but I really needed to come back and do this collection justice.

Mr. Gaultier took you from playing on the court to the stands to lunch at the club with the gang to that elegant dinner at that great restaurant overlooking the Seine with this collection. There were only a couple of pieces that I honestly would not want in my closet. As for the rest of the collection, simply dust of the checkbook, check card, credit card or whatever you are using these days and add just one piece. I promise you it will be in your closet for years. Even if you pull this piece out 15 years from now it will be current, fashionable, 'trendy' and guaranteed to generate that age old question "where did you find that?"

I am convinced that Mr. Gaultier is the President of La Chambre Syndicale because he gets it! He understands the difference between the me who would go to Hermes to purchase a garment as opposed to the me who would go to the Gaultier Boutique to purchase a garment. He manages to understand that fashion must run the gamut and appeal to a wide range of women from may different walks of life.

No he did not ignore the trend of the sheer garment. He simply made the sheer garment wearable by many. He also made sure that if was purchased from Hermes, that sheer garment could be worn and would be relevant for many seasons to come. And if you go to the site and look at the show, his models are more like real women with curves and some meat on their bones.

No they are not a size 12 or 14 but it is hard to imagine that any of these ladies could comfortably fit into a size 0. They have shape and their legs do not look like the arms of an eight-year-old. But you know what; this is not a surprise to me. This is also the man who put a 51 year old model on the runway because he needed a look and a feel that he knew he could not get from a 17 year-old 'gamine'. He needed a real woman and he boldly put her on the runway. She brought the house down with applause and now Mr. Gaultier is using that same 'look' to sell Hermes. Brilliant.

Okay, now that I have drawn the contrast I might as well review Gaultier's own label. The trends are clear. Sheer, lingerie as outer garments, great coats and beige tones as the base of the tapestry. Gaultier knows exactly who he caters to for each collection. The proliferation of denim, tattered legs, conical bras and hose was the clear appeal to the current pop stars who are always at the shows and ready to shop. I must say that of everything that went down the runways, he nailed them.

While in the Hermes collection he used some bold and primary colors, in his collection he used oranges and other vibrant colors to draw you in and keep you hooked. For me a great deal of the collection is not age appropriate. However, there are some outer garments that I would grab in a heartbeat. There is a camel colored classic trench that I would be more than willing to pay the asking price to own. There were also a couple of very soft untailored and almost deconstructed coats that have that great throw on and go appeal.

Rest assured that the look of the more voluptuous model is not a fleeting theme for Gaultier. He has continued the theme in his own collection, where it was introduced for Spring 2009. Women world-wide are thanking him because there is no longer that doubt that designers know we can't all be a size 0 or 2. Mr. Gaultier may have put some rags on the runway and accentuated that tattered look but trust me, there was not a 'bone' in the bunch.

I am really excited about the arrival of Kirsten because maybe she can walk us through the process of loading some photos to the blog so we can begin to show you what we are describing in our writing. It will eliminate the need for you to log on to the different shows to see what we are talking about. In the meantime, go to the site and have a look. You will be amazed, and I defy you to keep that desire to buy at bay. Both of Mr. Gaultier's contributions for Spring 2010 are great.


Okay, that is only three collections and they are all from the Paris shows. But, that is enough for today. Tomorrow, three more. If there is a particular collection you would like our take on, I am happy to do that. Maybe since I made a small joke of them, we can get Janice to do an in depth on 'Rag & Bone'. They show in NYC so that is her territory. However, Kirsten and I have not been barred from reporting on the New York shows. We'll see what happens. Between the three of us, we will somehow get that in depth onto the posts of the blog.

a la prochaine

Debra