Well once again there are five collections that are on the block. For some reason I keep picking three from Paris and two from Milan. I will try to change that up as we move through these reviews.
I have to admit that my view of the collections is influenced by my desire to see designers begin to embrace all women as opposed to women of a certain age (20). For that reason, we welcome your comments. This is a fashion blog and we want to be sure that we are representing fashion across the board and not just what we like.
So - - - to start, let's talk about A. Vandervorst. An Vandervorst and Filip Arickx sent a collection down the runway that was definitely in keeping with the season. As it started out in NYC it was clear the theme was going to be 'sheer' and lingerie as an outer garment. If it isn't being worn as an outer garment it is at least pretty enough to be viewed through a sheer blouse or even skirt. The confounding aspect for me was the use of hose to cinch pants.
When I was a kid and hose were the rage (not pantyhose but the sheer hose that needed garters to secure them in place) it was strictly taboo to have the tops show. How gauche and what type of woman were you if your skirt was so short that the tops of you stockings were visible?
Well fear no more. Vandervorst has solved that problem. Pull on your hose and use them as a statement of sheerness. It was also interesting that there was not a lot of color. It was a very neutral collection that played well on many complexions. In it's defense, it was easy and when placed in production and worn on the streets, the whole 'art' of the collection will be tamed and it will play well on the streets. For those who are more modest, a great tank or chemise will do the trick.
There are some outerwear pieces that are great. The use of chunky sweater knits and off the shoulder presentation gave everything a very fresh and easy look. There were also some presentations that gave the impression of one-shoulder garments. You need to check out the ingenious use of sheer and opaque to create this look. If you are a home sewer, there is a lot of food for thought in this collection.
Now I am about to commit sacrilege. Nicholas Ghesquiere usually hits it out of the park. This time there were a couple of pieces and one of the many hoodies would be great to have to use on a cool spring evening. However, the absence of any evening or cocktail wear was a disappointment for me. I really think that it is one of the things he does best.
If you want a very casual, pulled together street look, this is you. It is somewhere between ski and jeans only. There was color, mostly blues and greens and yellows that formed very geometric or rather graphic presentations. It just seemed as though for this season there was an attempt to achieve an understated look.
In my eye it was casual, sporty and somewhat boring. I don't need 10 hoodies. I need a couple. I also want them to make different statements. These all said the same thing. I really think that if the fabrics were changed you could use these outfits for speed skaters. I am no longer interested in looking that casual.
I am waiting for the Nicholas Ghesquiere of Balenciaga to return for Fall 2010. I want to see if this continues or if he gets back on the horse and gives us wow. If he doesn't, well I guess I will have to find a way to readjust my view of who and what Mr. Ghesquiere is and how the House of Balenciaga will change in the future.
Let's hop down to Milan for a moment. Muccia Prada is an icon. The label is iconic. However, in my estimation, the label is also in need of some umph! For the past few seasons I have been praying that Prada does something that has such a 'wow' factor that it shuts all of us up who are waiting for the label to fade into the sunset. Once again, for me, it did not happen.
The adage is that it is not how you start but how you finish. As the daughter of a dressmaker that is so, so true. The finishing is everything. I was taught that when you turn a garment inside-out it should be as beautiful as it is on the finished side. To me that means you have actually hemmed the garment. Prada disagrees with me on that point.
Jackets, pants, skirts, tops, underpinnings all had raw edges for hemlines. Those that were hemmed were hemmed in such a way as to show you exactly how deep the hem was and it just seemed wrong. Do you know how many hems my mother made me rip out because you could see the stitching on the right side of the fabric? Do you know how many time I was asked "did you face that hem or use seam tape"? The head seamstress at Prada did not ask those questions. She did not ask, "will that edge fray over time?"
That aside, the cuts and lines were interesting. For the most part the collection was wearable but not 'wow' (except for the unfinished look). I am just not a Prada garment fan. But - - - if you had the thrill of going to the accessory shows, there are some really hot Prada bags, shoes and boots.
Michael Kors has taken that unmistakable Prada heel and applied it to some of his shoes and it is a great look. If you are not sure which heel I am talking about you saw it over and over again the the movie (duh) The Devil Wears Prada. Meryl Streep wore the heck out of those shoes. And, if you are a faithful follower, you know that Janice and I happen to be boot junkies. Boots are like drugs for us. A new pair of boots is an instant fix for whatever ails you. Prada can help you get your fix.
I want Prada to make a huge comeback. I think that the label is important to the industry and something would be missing on the runways of Milan if it were to fade into the sunset. But alas, I am not the definitive authority on the fate of any fashion label. I have my likes and dislikes. I have my opinions. You have yours. So, go to the runway show on line and tell us what you think.
We could be completely wrong. Even if we are wrong you will not see me giving any retailer $2,000 for a jacket that has no hem!
Since I am now on a rant let's go back to Paris for a moment. Rei Kawakubo is a self-proclaimed adult delinquent. She said so in an interview. I think she has no filters. I think she is 'p'd o' about something. Commes des Garcons was at one time an edgy collection that was on one hand shocking and the other stunning. In my estimation it has now gone to really bad fashion student project status. Let's get Rei to a point where she is happy and creating instead of making statements.
At some point you need to put the costume aspect of the designing aside and remember that the name of the game is to develop a following and sell garments. The master of this concept is Vivienne Westwood. Ms. Kawakubo missed the mark. She has gone to pure costume mode with this collection.
Okay, toning down my rant, this collection is either really fashion forward (as in beyond our current ability to even conceptualize the trend) or a statement about something equally incomprehensible. Is it a statement about the 80's? Is it a statement that we will buy anything if it is labeled hot and trendy? Is it Rei Kawakubo's way of telling us that she is tired of the status quo and the industry needs to do something else? I don't know.
On this one I really need some reader input. I need a few of you to watch this show and tell me what is being presented. I could read what the folks at Style.com have to say but again, that is just one opinion. I need to hear lots of them and look at this collection again.
And now for the last collection for today --- Gabriele Colangelo. Again, I am getting another "who" from our readers. Gabriele Colangelo; Italian; got a walk at Fashion Week, Milan; unlucky time slot (late on Friday afternoon); HIT IT OUT OF THE PARK!!!!
Attendees of fashion weeks pick and choose. There are the must see collections (In Milan it is Armani, Versace, Botega Venetta, Dolce & Gabanna, etc.). Gabriele Colangelo most likely was not on the list of 'must attends' for many buyers. The joke was on them. After the collection went down the runway (in their absence) they were in need of an appointment at the showroom to view the collection. If they were smart they hunted down a telephone number and that is exactly what they did. It should have been one of the busiest showrooms in Milan, post fashion week.
My standard bearers for Italian design houses are Ferre and Valentino (yes, Valentino has a design house and showrooms in Milan). I cannot imagine that either house would hesitate if Colangelo asked to design a couple of pieces for them. The collection was easy, elegant, wearable and has broad appeal. He clearly, like Valentino and Ferre, likes women.
The palate was muted and easy to add to an existing wardrobe. The pieces ran the gamut from classic to trendy, giving you the option to spice up something you already have in your closet or add a piece that will serve you for years. The collection has that great balance between relevant today and standing the test of time.
I would imagine that many an Italian woman (or any woman) would look at the pieces in the collection and say "I could wear that" or "Oh how fun and comfortable". For me there were a couple of pieces where I questioned the proportions and the volume of fabric used in the garment. Yet, even with those questions, those pieces were wearable on the right person. I am looking forward to seeing many, many more collections from this young designer.
Okay gang, I am going to take a day off to do some things and get back to the review on Monday. So - - - -
a la prochaine
Debra
Friday, October 30, 2009
Wednesday, October 28, 2009
And Now To Start
IN MEMORY OF MY UNCLE CECIL ANDREW COLLINS
APRIL 24 1928 - OCTOBER 28 2009
Hello Faithful Readers,
As promised, I am here to begin the journey through the world of fashion that was shown on the runways in London, Milan and Paris. I did post a few comments on shows that were somehow standouts (for various reasons). Now I am going to take a few days to deal with the remaining fashion houses and labels.
I am going to do this over several days as we (the family) need a bit of something to distract us over the next week or so. The events of the past couple of months have taught me that time marches on and torches are passed to the next standard bearers. As it is in families when patriarchs and matriarchs pass on, so it is with fashion. The important thing is to remember who you are and hang on to the roots that were so lovingly passed to you to pass to those who will come after you.
During our last conversation, my uncle asked me about the project and how it was going. His advice was to keep at it. That is exactly what I intend to do. I am going to keep at it and in time, The Fashion Project will be a huge success.
With that said, here we go. Today we are going to get into two collections that were shown in Milan and three that were shown in Paris. I know at this rate it will take over a month to get through everything. Well, sit back and relax. That is not a bad thing. The merchandise will not be arriving until March so we have some time.
Who out there has heard of or owns any Ann Demeulemeester? I don't have one single piece. I don't think the collection lacks merit; I simply do not lean toward her style. For spring it is possibly the most sophisticated Goth I have ever seen. I will admit that I am of an age where I don't get Goth and seeing young people draped in black with piercings and dark make up unnerves me a bit. But, if I had a daughter or niece who was seriously into Goth, I would run straight to this label.
If you are going to adopt a 'culture' you need to do it in a way that will still allow you to stand out among the millions who share your enthusiasm for the look. Ann Demeulemeester will definitely allow that. I am not talking about the obvious long black reefer or trench coat accessorized with Docs and torn hose. I am talking absolutely stunning, well put together outfits that you could actually dress up and take for a spin around the block.
The comments you would get are thing such as "I think it's Goth, but I am not really sure. It was really sophisticated" and "did you see Debra's niece? Who was she wearing. It was really Goth but hot!" Even I would don some of the jackets and being a fan of the interesting, there are pieces I would add to my wardrobe just for shock value. Just imagine hearing, "that's so not like you." Well that is the point. It is like me. It is like me the day I decide to look a bit more edgy. One Goth piece does not make one part of the Goth culture. It makes you willing to branch out.
In stark contrast was Bluemarine. Anna Molinari is a genius. The collection is soft and flowing; it is ladylike and full of everything that says spring. The colors are pastel but intense and concentrated enough to let you know that the colors are there but not so intense that you are running for shades. It is a collection that really resonated with me.
For those of you who are saying 'yuk' Anna took care of you also. Included in the collection is a fair amount of tailored clothing that is reminiscent of safari wear. It is clean, it is casual but at the same time elegant. If you happened to be out for the afternoon and a couple of friends said, let's go to dinner, you would be able to feel very comfortable walking into any restaurant.
I found that the appeal of this collection was the fact that at my age, I would feel comfortable in many of the pieces. It may be a bit staid for someone who is extremely fashion forward. Of course, if that is what you are looking for, go to the softer side of Demeulemeester. There are some drapy pants in large prints (muted greys, white and black outlines) that would play to your edgy character. For me, it was the softness of the dress, the flow of a skirt and the beautiful statement of spring that made this collection stellar.
Let's stay in Paris for a moment and talk about Balmain. Well the Balmain of old was military, tailored, classic. The Balmain of today is still military, a bit less tailored and in some respects far from classic. Christophe Decarnin has perfected the military jacket with epaulets. He has also perfected a look that can only be called, Rock Star.
Alas, it is now time to talk about age appropriate dressing. A couple of the jackets I could pull off, but at 55, I think I would look a bit desperate trying to put entire outfits together. It just wouldn't play as well on me as it would on someone 15 or 20 years younger. With some of the outfits, even they would have a tough time.
The use of fabrics was incredible. There are metallics, sheers, etc. that were combined to make really great looking ensembles. Metallic military jackets while impractical for combat are the perfect item for that night out with the gang. Even if you opted for just the jacket, what a statement to pair with any jeans. There were some metallic and lace dresses (very short) that would be great tunics over a pair of skinny jeans. It is the perfect way to take day into evening and feel chic, edgy and more fashion forward than the rest of the crowd.
The next two collections are truly multi-generational. By that I mean that there were pieces in each collection for someone irrespective of age. In Milan, Roberto Remondi, of Gianfranco Ferre, put together a collection that was incredibly beautiful. I was impressed and I dare say that Gianfranco himself would have taken the time to give Mr. Remondi a bow.
True to the house of Gianfranco Ferre, the colors were muted and minimal. The styles were feminine yet tailored (tailoring goes beyond suits and coats ladies). Most importantly, they were extremely wearable. The suits were soft and with the lengthening of a skirt could be worn by my me and my mother as well as my nieces. The details were great and the finishing was incredible. I was again reminded why the House of Gianfranco Ferre holds such appeal for me.
Before you say 'oh God, another retreat into the past' take a look at some of the pieces. There are a couple of cocktail dresses that were very beautiful and fashion forward. No they would not play well on someone over 50, but they have real appeal. Not only would it be great to see them on the runway, it would be great to see them at that summer cocktail party where you need to wow a client or make an impression on a group of people. And being the daughter of a dressmaker, I already know what I would do to the dress to make it 'age appropriate' for me.
It is all about the look, the feel and the mystery for me. Gianfranco Ferre always brought that to fashion and now, through Mr. Remondi, it is happening again. I am eagerly awaiting the Fall collection.
Last but not least, Andrew Gn. Okay, I know what everyone is saying. "Who is Andrew Gn?" Well ladies get ready to make him a household name. I happen to think he is brilliant. This is a designer, who like Mr. Remondi, realizes that fashion is enjoyed and deserved whether you are 28 or 88 and whether you can pull off a strapless gown/dress or not.
No he has not hidden women with figure challenges away in mounds of fabric. He has taken his knowledge and crafted jackets, skirts, dresses, etc. to make sure that if my mother has an event to attend, she can purchase something from the current season and not feel that she needs thousands of dollars of 'work' before she puts the garment on.
I loved the suits with the puffy sleeved jackets. I loved the entire feminine look of the collection. It was a bit more colorful than some of the others in Paris but it was beautiful. In my advancing years I have come to appreciate the ability of people to adapt. Mr. Gn has adapted fashion so that any woman who wishes to play can do so, in his collection.
So there is the scoop for today. I don't know what Nicole Phelps or anyone else said about these collections. It really doesn't matter. It is entirely possible that each was panned. If they were, I have made my point.
Fashion is a matter of individual taste. Mine is not yours and yours is not your friends. So everyone, go out there and look at what went down the runways for Spring 2010. If you don't find something to your liking, I would be shocked. Absolutely everything was out there. Take some time and browse.
a la prochaine
Debra
Monday, October 26, 2009
It's On its Way
My apologies to the readers. It has been a bit hectic here as I am in Bellevue and saddled with some family matters that require immediate and intense attention. As of Wednesday, I should have some time to sit and provide you with an analysis of the London, Milan and Paris runways. No one has complained but I want to keep my word.
In the meantime, I hope everyone is ready for Resort 2009. 'Tis time and for those who are shopping, there are some great pieces in various collections. I just hope the retailers were brave enough to bring them in for your consumption.
But for now, family duty calls and I must attend to a couple of items. I appreciate your understanding and starting Wednesday, it will be FASHION, FASHION, FASHION!!!
a la prochaine
Debra
In the meantime, I hope everyone is ready for Resort 2009. 'Tis time and for those who are shopping, there are some great pieces in various collections. I just hope the retailers were brave enough to bring them in for your consumption.
But for now, family duty calls and I must attend to a couple of items. I appreciate your understanding and starting Wednesday, it will be FASHION, FASHION, FASHION!!!
a la prochaine
Debra
Monday, October 19, 2009
I LOVE FASHION...!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Alas ,just to set the record straight ,I did not venture to the beautiful land of Idaho to search out a new abode to wear my new spring 2010....
But after reviewing the American Designers.......I wasn't running away from some of the collections....BUT if I were to purchase one of Calvin Klein's dresses...I could only seriously
wear in the presence of the beautiful trees that line the skies of Coeur d'Alene ,Idaho.
The trees would definitely camouflage the sheerness of the collection !!!!!!!!!! The collection
was labeled as ,minimal and sheer .Enough said !
As the title clearly stakes I LOVE FASHION...In one of my previous entries..I stated how
I systemactically go through my latest issues ....I love the inffusion of colors,fabrics ,nuances
and creativity of new and many times old styles that are revitalized .I realize that many lengths will be lowered for the average shopper and some items are only for the runway .But living in
such a climate as San Francisco...I still tend to lean towards most of the fall fashions...many fabrics are so perfect for our weather .
One great early tip though ,if you are seriously thinking about revamping your spring wardrobe
look in your closet first ..So many vendors offered looks that are probably in your closet or @ your nearest resale shop .Ralph Lauren's collections were reminiscint of the 'Grapes of Wrath .
Oversized ,torn jeans...Newsboy hats , calico print dresses ,and my favorite the classic blue
pinstriped pant suit . Yes I am on the search ...with a little alterations...I am in like flint !!!!
Donna Karan's looks were weightless ,with an easy appeal as only DK can present .There were
hues of blush,greys and white . Anna Sui showed preppylooks with lots of prints,florals and
lots of Bohemian influence .Marc Jacobs had more going on than a Disney on Ice show !!!!!!!!!
In a nutshell there were ruffles everywhere,graphics,draping and underwear on the surface .
Look it up for yourself . Last but not least...........Oscar de la Renta presented the Safari look
with a twist of course ,Ladylike dresses in fab colors ,great prints and eveningwear that is his
forte .Thank you Mr. de la Renta for remembering us in the 40 plus club !!!!!!
Just a reminder the industry is still in the struggling mode ,so just a word of advice ..save those
dollars for those after holiday great finds ...focus in ,go try on that one must-have ,alert your
favorite sales persona and they can ring it up with that fabulous percentage off price ...
A demain
Janice
Friday, October 16, 2009
What Were They Thinking
Okay, I know everyone is waiting for the fashion assessments but things keep cropping up. Now it seems that French Vogue has a spread with a model in black-face. First Ralph with a wickedly photo-shopped image and now French Vogue with 'black face'. What in the world is going on? What would make any thinking person believe that this was an okay thing to do?
In April of 2008 the much touted Vogue Italia came out with the "Black Issue". Well that caused some tongue wagging from one side of the industry about how it was just as 'racist' to have an all black issue as it was to have all white runways and magazine shoots. The funny thing is there were additional printings of that issue and I was well into the issue (about 120 pages) before I saw the first black face. It wasn't about freezing any particular group out of the industry. It was a statement of what was happening in the industry. It was a notice to the industry that they were not only banishing some women and making it hard for them to make a living but they were losing a portion of the population that did not relate to being tall, waifish and Eastern European.
Of course the American fashion mags weighed in and posed questions such as 'who is to blame'? Well I have a suggestion. The editors of the fashion magazines control the content of the magazines. Maybe they should assume some of the responsibility. I heard comments that it would be harder to sell clothing if the models were women of color. Why is that? I am buying the garment not the model. They all possess the same body type so the garments don't hang differently. Also, what is the equivalent of "tech week" for a show is conducted in the fashion world and each garment is fitted to a specific model. They don't just randomly run back stage and grab a dress.
The April 2008 Vogue Italia did accomplish its goal. There have been many more black models on the runways in Europe and here in America. However, the American runways are still spotty. I think it is a bit of backlash because a discriminatory practice was pointed out and there is such stigma assigned to being discriminatory or racist or bigoted.
Now, this last act by French Vogue is just beyond explanation. It isn't that they could not have found a black model so it had to be that they did not want one. The question is why? The issue itself is about supermodels. How strange that not one black supermodel appears in or is mention in the spread. They do exist. If you doubt me here are a few names you may recognize. Naomi Campbell, Tyra Banks, Iman, Alek Wek, Liya Kebede, Chanel Iman and Jourdan Dunn would all classify as supermodels. We can even go back to Beverly Johnson and those who worked with her in the days when fashion was glamorous and wonderful. Instead of using one of these women they pick Lara Stone, a Dutch woman, and put her in full body makeup to make her appear black.
Okay, if it was something artistic it missed the mark for me. If it was a joke, I didn't get it. To me the look is not only offensive, it is freaky. The French certainly should know better. Even if they didn't the photographer is an American. He certainly knew it was in bad taste and offensive at best and derogatory and racist at worst.
Should he have refused to do the shoot? I can't make that call. He is in business to make money. I understand doing things that stick in your craw. You buck up and get it over with. He was contracted to do the shoot and that is what he did. I am certain that Meisel did not develop the concept. That would be like blaming Demarchelier for Galliano's decision to paint all of his models blue or yellow or orange for a runway show. Patrick simply shot the photos.
I know that apologies will never be made to the black supermodels for the slight they have suffered. That slight is not recognizing them as the supermodels they are. They have earned that status and recognition. I wish they had been included. It would have been a great boost to the self-esteem of many young black women and girls world-wide.
As a black American woman who spends a great deal of time in Paris, I can tell you that each of these women is greatly respected and they do get work. I can also tell you that this is the dismissive attitude of the French. I can already envision that disinterested shrug that is so classically given when the French are thinking 'so what'. It will be interesting to see if American Vogue has any comments or response. I am not holding my breath for that either. After all the response to Italian Vogue's black issue was the editorial asking who is to blame.
It is very interesting. I have discovered in writing this post that the offense I feel is not really that Lara Stone was painted black. I am offended that Naomi Campbell, Alek Wek, et. al. were not given the opportunity to do the spread. If you really look at the garments they would have been amazing on Alek Wek or Chanel Iman. It would be really awesome to see an 'African Queen' portrayed by a woman of African descent. It is not my dismay of the industry resorting to 'black face'. It is my desire to be see 'me' in the industry. Black women are not invisible and we do not result in diminished sales for design labels.
And now an additional question. Given the visceral response to having a model in 'black face', what if French Vogue was afraid of having me equally offended if they had selected a black model to depict an African Queen? I am not defending them for their decision. I am simply willing to state that I do not know their intentions in doing this.
I hope the editors of French Vogue feel that the controversy deserves discussion and that a dialogue ensues. I am willing and will happily participate in that dialogue. If we never converse with each other we will continue to talk at each other. That is sad because if we are talking at each other, no one is heard and no one feels understood. It is time for the industry to enter into that dialogue.
In April of 2008 the much touted Vogue Italia came out with the "Black Issue". Well that caused some tongue wagging from one side of the industry about how it was just as 'racist' to have an all black issue as it was to have all white runways and magazine shoots. The funny thing is there were additional printings of that issue and I was well into the issue (about 120 pages) before I saw the first black face. It wasn't about freezing any particular group out of the industry. It was a statement of what was happening in the industry. It was a notice to the industry that they were not only banishing some women and making it hard for them to make a living but they were losing a portion of the population that did not relate to being tall, waifish and Eastern European.
Of course the American fashion mags weighed in and posed questions such as 'who is to blame'? Well I have a suggestion. The editors of the fashion magazines control the content of the magazines. Maybe they should assume some of the responsibility. I heard comments that it would be harder to sell clothing if the models were women of color. Why is that? I am buying the garment not the model. They all possess the same body type so the garments don't hang differently. Also, what is the equivalent of "tech week" for a show is conducted in the fashion world and each garment is fitted to a specific model. They don't just randomly run back stage and grab a dress.
The April 2008 Vogue Italia did accomplish its goal. There have been many more black models on the runways in Europe and here in America. However, the American runways are still spotty. I think it is a bit of backlash because a discriminatory practice was pointed out and there is such stigma assigned to being discriminatory or racist or bigoted.
Now, this last act by French Vogue is just beyond explanation. It isn't that they could not have found a black model so it had to be that they did not want one. The question is why? The issue itself is about supermodels. How strange that not one black supermodel appears in or is mention in the spread. They do exist. If you doubt me here are a few names you may recognize. Naomi Campbell, Tyra Banks, Iman, Alek Wek, Liya Kebede, Chanel Iman and Jourdan Dunn would all classify as supermodels. We can even go back to Beverly Johnson and those who worked with her in the days when fashion was glamorous and wonderful. Instead of using one of these women they pick Lara Stone, a Dutch woman, and put her in full body makeup to make her appear black.
Okay, if it was something artistic it missed the mark for me. If it was a joke, I didn't get it. To me the look is not only offensive, it is freaky. The French certainly should know better. Even if they didn't the photographer is an American. He certainly knew it was in bad taste and offensive at best and derogatory and racist at worst.
Should he have refused to do the shoot? I can't make that call. He is in business to make money. I understand doing things that stick in your craw. You buck up and get it over with. He was contracted to do the shoot and that is what he did. I am certain that Meisel did not develop the concept. That would be like blaming Demarchelier for Galliano's decision to paint all of his models blue or yellow or orange for a runway show. Patrick simply shot the photos.
I know that apologies will never be made to the black supermodels for the slight they have suffered. That slight is not recognizing them as the supermodels they are. They have earned that status and recognition. I wish they had been included. It would have been a great boost to the self-esteem of many young black women and girls world-wide.
As a black American woman who spends a great deal of time in Paris, I can tell you that each of these women is greatly respected and they do get work. I can also tell you that this is the dismissive attitude of the French. I can already envision that disinterested shrug that is so classically given when the French are thinking 'so what'. It will be interesting to see if American Vogue has any comments or response. I am not holding my breath for that either. After all the response to Italian Vogue's black issue was the editorial asking who is to blame.
It is very interesting. I have discovered in writing this post that the offense I feel is not really that Lara Stone was painted black. I am offended that Naomi Campbell, Alek Wek, et. al. were not given the opportunity to do the spread. If you really look at the garments they would have been amazing on Alek Wek or Chanel Iman. It would be really awesome to see an 'African Queen' portrayed by a woman of African descent. It is not my dismay of the industry resorting to 'black face'. It is my desire to be see 'me' in the industry. Black women are not invisible and we do not result in diminished sales for design labels.
And now an additional question. Given the visceral response to having a model in 'black face', what if French Vogue was afraid of having me equally offended if they had selected a black model to depict an African Queen? I am not defending them for their decision. I am simply willing to state that I do not know their intentions in doing this.
I hope the editors of French Vogue feel that the controversy deserves discussion and that a dialogue ensues. I am willing and will happily participate in that dialogue. If we never converse with each other we will continue to talk at each other. That is sad because if we are talking at each other, no one is heard and no one feels understood. It is time for the industry to enter into that dialogue.
a la prochaine
Debra
Thursday, October 15, 2009
Strictly Brief !!!!!!!!!!!!
To one and all...............
I know Debra said I would be covering the American Designers..and you are probably wondering
where are the reviews ...Well I am presently looking for land with lots of trees ,perhaps
Coeur d' Alene to wear all the sheer garments shown for Spring 2010..........
I know Debra said I would be covering the American Designers..and you are probably wondering
where are the reviews ...Well I am presently looking for land with lots of trees ,perhaps
Coeur d' Alene to wear all the sheer garments shown for Spring 2010..........
Just Briefly
Alas the shows are over and it is time to comb through the footage to see what we think of the efforts of the many designers who braved the economy and put collections on the runways around the world. This is a very short post to speak to one particular fashion house that is missing this coming season. We are sad to say that Christian LaCroix did not show.
I know that there are some who are thinking to themselves that it wasn't a label that was to their liking. However, the problem is that it is one less label out there and it further restricts the choices women have in 'getting dressed'. I was not a fan of his women's' line but he had some great ties and a couple of years ago, while in Paris I bought some of those great ties for my father and brothers. Just the other day, my brother mentioned that he would love to get a couple more Christian LaCroix ties. I didn't have the heart to tell him that it would be a while, if ever.
So - - - here's hoping that somehow Mr. LaCroix finds a way to bring his fashion label back and gives us all many thrills in one of the coming seasons. I think that we should all send positive energy to every single designer. It is going to be a little more time before the chill is off of the industry and the wallets of shoppers begin to thaw.
Until that time, let's keep buying what we can. I am not suggesting purchasing for the sake of consuming. I am talking about going ahead and buying that incredible bag, or that pair of shoes, or those killer gloves. If you need a winter coat there are some great ones out there and the prices are pretty good. Just make sure that everything you purchase has a real place in your closet and it adds something positive to your wardrobe.
So I will be making those assessments. Right now I just wanted to say that I am a bit sad that Christian LaCroix was forced to sit this one out. I for one would love to see him back on the scene. Here's hoping for March 2010.
a la prochaine
Debra
I know that there are some who are thinking to themselves that it wasn't a label that was to their liking. However, the problem is that it is one less label out there and it further restricts the choices women have in 'getting dressed'. I was not a fan of his women's' line but he had some great ties and a couple of years ago, while in Paris I bought some of those great ties for my father and brothers. Just the other day, my brother mentioned that he would love to get a couple more Christian LaCroix ties. I didn't have the heart to tell him that it would be a while, if ever.
So - - - here's hoping that somehow Mr. LaCroix finds a way to bring his fashion label back and gives us all many thrills in one of the coming seasons. I think that we should all send positive energy to every single designer. It is going to be a little more time before the chill is off of the industry and the wallets of shoppers begin to thaw.
Until that time, let's keep buying what we can. I am not suggesting purchasing for the sake of consuming. I am talking about going ahead and buying that incredible bag, or that pair of shoes, or those killer gloves. If you need a winter coat there are some great ones out there and the prices are pretty good. Just make sure that everything you purchase has a real place in your closet and it adds something positive to your wardrobe.
So I will be making those assessments. Right now I just wanted to say that I am a bit sad that Christian LaCroix was forced to sit this one out. I for one would love to see him back on the scene. Here's hoping for March 2010.
a la prochaine
Debra
Wednesday, October 7, 2009
I Lied
I know I said I was going to wait until all of the shows were done in Paris to comment but I lied. I cannot wait any longer to comment on at least three things. First let's talk about Ungaro. When the announcement came out heralding Lindsay Lohan as the artistic director I thought it was a joke. As it turns out it should have been. The collection that she and Estrella Archs put on the runway was beyond hideous. I dare say that any clients that Ungaro had went running for the doors in search of a new design house to attach themselves to.
I have never in my life seen such a classless display of - - - I can't even call them garments. The question you were asking yourself as you viewed this collection was "Am I at a runway show or is this a strip club?" To parade models down the runway with heart-shaped pasties was beyond the beyond. Mounir Moufarrige should be ashamed. If he wanted publicity he could have gotten it by hiring someone credible and putting a knock-out collection on the runway.
I am tired of the recent glut of tasteless Hollywood starlets and celebs claiming to have a lock on fashion and a sense of what constitutes style. Lindsay Lohan just proved that she wouldn't know style if it jumped up and bit her on the behind. And by the way, two inches shorter and along with the breasts of the models, with pasties on their nipples, you could have seen each models behind.
The second thing I want to comment on right now is the divergence of the House of Valentino to something that just isn't Valentino at all. There was a lot of dismay at the direction that Alessandra Facchianetti was taking the House and it made her tenure with Valentino very short. However, I will say this. Her collections were wearable. The stuff that Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Picioli have sent down the runway for the past two seasons cannot be worn by mature women.
Particularly disappointing is the collection for Spring 2010. It is far too sheer; it is far too short; and it is not hip or avant garde. It is a slap in the face to a man who created a wonderful design house and who truly loved women.
I am not a prude. It isn't that in 90 percent of the collection you could see the models breasts through the sheer fabric, it is that once again that some young designers are seemingly relegating the women with the means to pay for their clothing to a life in flour sacks. I wonder how their fashion sense will evolve as they mature and realize that at 50 or 60, it would be nice to have a Valentino but alas, no one of that age can wear it because the design of the garment makes it impossible to wear foundation garments.
No one remains young and firm forever. Without the help of a great plastic surgeon you are out of luck with this collection if you are over 50. Then again, I don't care how good the plastic surgeon is, if you go in for too much work you will have that decided 'worked on' look. No one wants to look mounted as if they visited the taxidermist. You all know what I mean. One more face lift and your navel will be on your chin.
I know that it will more than likely go into production in a more modest fashion. However, if not being 'Valentino enough' cost Ms. Facchianetti her position, the same end should befall Chiuri and Piocioli.
The third and final thing I will comment on is the commentary from the fashion writers. It is a dis-service to any young, up and coming designer to pan the collection based on one's tiny perception of what fashion is or should be. I would be curious to know how many of these fashion writers have any expertise in fashion other than sitting at fashion shows and shopping at Macy's. I really wonder what qualifies them to pass judgment on people who have actually trained for their careers.
There were accolades given to collections that were so over the top that it was hard to determine if the designer was serious while collections that had an appeal to a wide audience were panned as uninspired. Maybe the fashion writers have decided that inspiration comes from viewing collections that are only for a small segment of the population and then pandering to those few.
I saw nothing wrong with Tim Hamilton's collection. If the fact that it is wearable makes it a bland effort so be it. Alexander McQueen's collection was beyond anything I had seen. I am not sure how to wear it or who would wear it. However, it was not horrid. It was simply not my taste or to the taste of most of the women I know. I will say that I do not recall seeing one woman of color in his show and for that I say 'shame on you Alexander McQueen'.
Starting next week I will go through each collection with a fine tooth comb and opine on what is good and what is bad. As I do this the thing you need to keep in mind is that it is from my point of view. My view is colored by my taste and my likes and dislikes. It doesn't mean that it is correct or that it is the definitive word on what will be a hit for the season. I caution you to take the same thing into consideration when someone who writes for Vogue, Vanity Fair, Bazaar or any other fashion mag issues an opinion.
Everyone has an opinion. It is just that. An opinion.
a la prochaine
Debra
I have never in my life seen such a classless display of - - - I can't even call them garments. The question you were asking yourself as you viewed this collection was "Am I at a runway show or is this a strip club?" To parade models down the runway with heart-shaped pasties was beyond the beyond. Mounir Moufarrige should be ashamed. If he wanted publicity he could have gotten it by hiring someone credible and putting a knock-out collection on the runway.
I am tired of the recent glut of tasteless Hollywood starlets and celebs claiming to have a lock on fashion and a sense of what constitutes style. Lindsay Lohan just proved that she wouldn't know style if it jumped up and bit her on the behind. And by the way, two inches shorter and along with the breasts of the models, with pasties on their nipples, you could have seen each models behind.
The second thing I want to comment on right now is the divergence of the House of Valentino to something that just isn't Valentino at all. There was a lot of dismay at the direction that Alessandra Facchianetti was taking the House and it made her tenure with Valentino very short. However, I will say this. Her collections were wearable. The stuff that Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Picioli have sent down the runway for the past two seasons cannot be worn by mature women.
Particularly disappointing is the collection for Spring 2010. It is far too sheer; it is far too short; and it is not hip or avant garde. It is a slap in the face to a man who created a wonderful design house and who truly loved women.
I am not a prude. It isn't that in 90 percent of the collection you could see the models breasts through the sheer fabric, it is that once again that some young designers are seemingly relegating the women with the means to pay for their clothing to a life in flour sacks. I wonder how their fashion sense will evolve as they mature and realize that at 50 or 60, it would be nice to have a Valentino but alas, no one of that age can wear it because the design of the garment makes it impossible to wear foundation garments.
No one remains young and firm forever. Without the help of a great plastic surgeon you are out of luck with this collection if you are over 50. Then again, I don't care how good the plastic surgeon is, if you go in for too much work you will have that decided 'worked on' look. No one wants to look mounted as if they visited the taxidermist. You all know what I mean. One more face lift and your navel will be on your chin.
I know that it will more than likely go into production in a more modest fashion. However, if not being 'Valentino enough' cost Ms. Facchianetti her position, the same end should befall Chiuri and Piocioli.
The third and final thing I will comment on is the commentary from the fashion writers. It is a dis-service to any young, up and coming designer to pan the collection based on one's tiny perception of what fashion is or should be. I would be curious to know how many of these fashion writers have any expertise in fashion other than sitting at fashion shows and shopping at Macy's. I really wonder what qualifies them to pass judgment on people who have actually trained for their careers.
There were accolades given to collections that were so over the top that it was hard to determine if the designer was serious while collections that had an appeal to a wide audience were panned as uninspired. Maybe the fashion writers have decided that inspiration comes from viewing collections that are only for a small segment of the population and then pandering to those few.
I saw nothing wrong with Tim Hamilton's collection. If the fact that it is wearable makes it a bland effort so be it. Alexander McQueen's collection was beyond anything I had seen. I am not sure how to wear it or who would wear it. However, it was not horrid. It was simply not my taste or to the taste of most of the women I know. I will say that I do not recall seeing one woman of color in his show and for that I say 'shame on you Alexander McQueen'.
Starting next week I will go through each collection with a fine tooth comb and opine on what is good and what is bad. As I do this the thing you need to keep in mind is that it is from my point of view. My view is colored by my taste and my likes and dislikes. It doesn't mean that it is correct or that it is the definitive word on what will be a hit for the season. I caution you to take the same thing into consideration when someone who writes for Vogue, Vanity Fair, Bazaar or any other fashion mag issues an opinion.
Everyone has an opinion. It is just that. An opinion.
a la prochaine
Debra
Monday, October 5, 2009
Fashion Overload
Even from a distance you get that malady this time of year called fashion overload. This is the first season I have checked out the collections remotely and I must say it is just as exhausting. It may actually be more exhausting.
When you are there you know that you can't possibly see every show so you pick and choose. From the comfort of your home in front of a computer screen you start to figure that you really can do something you have never been able to do before - - - see them all. Well guess what? You can't.
So far we have had NYC, London and Milan. We are now in Paris and we are not done. There are more shows after Paris. While they are lesser known shows, they are important to the designers who get walks in those venues. It is sort of like baseball. There are players on the farm teams who are working as hard as they can to improve and get that call to come up to the major league. For some it will happen.
In terms of actually blogging about the collections and the comments of the "professional" fashion writers, I will wait until Paris is over and I have had some time to digest what I have viewed. For now I just want to talk about a very disturbing trend in the industry.
A few years ago there was a lot of concern over the health of the models and the things they were doing to themselves to remain thin. For the most part, the banning of anyone under the age of 16 and not openly encouraging models to starve themselves has helped. Spain went as far as to take a stand and request that the designers use slightly larger models. So, on that front things are better.
What is not better is the obsession with youth. So far I have seen a couple of collections that are totally inappropriate for anyone over the age of 40. That said, my question is why do designers ignore a large portion of the population? More than that, why are they ignoring the portion of the population with the money to actually invest in their collections (e.g. purchases pieces)?
I understand that the runway shows are entertainment and that the garments may not go into production as you see them on the runway. That does not change the fact that when you are sitting in the audience thinking of your clientele you are sometimes angry at the designers for constantly pushing youth, youth, youth.
I do not know many 45 or 50 year old women who want to wear a skirt that is half way up their thighs. Nor are there many who want to wear tops that need underpinnings for the underpinnings in order to have enough support for the girls. You would think that these designers were all in their 20's and 30's. But alas, they are not. Some of them are older than I am and have mothers who cannot wear their clothing.
This is not what Coco Chanel had in mind; it is not what Yves Saint Laurent was striving for. It is not what Christian Dior envisioned. Some of what I have seen is a real slap in the face to the mature woman. They are blatant statements that say, "I don't want you in my clothes. You are too old."
I have a news flash for designers. Every woman on the planet, irrespective of age or dress size wants to be beautiful. Constantly catering to a segment of the population that cannot afford to purchase your clothing and does not have the sophistication to wear it with style and elegance it requires is not wise. If you think I am wrong, ask the designers who seem to get the idea that women who have the resources to shop are those who are not saving for a college fund for their kids.
So my hat is off to design houses such as Graeme Black, Akris, Dries Van Noten, Oscar de la Renta, Bottega Veneta, Donna Karan, etc. They are the ones who have figured out that the name of the game is to dress women so they can feel elegant. It is time for some of the rest to follow suit. Even Heidi Klum made a comment on Project Runway about a dress one of the contestants made 'aging the model 10 years'. OMG! So instead of looking 20 she looked 30? Add another 10 years and it would be time to put her in an assisted living facility to live out her final days.
The last thing I ever want to do is be or look 25 again. I have come a long way in 30 years and I do not want to re-plow old ground. I have moved on and in the process moved to a place of contentment. It really is better on this side of 40. Trust me. You've learned that not only is the grass not greener on the other side, you've learned it isn't grass at all. It is the deception and the false assumption being pushed that being flashy, and often inappropriate, is an acceptable substitute for sophistication elegance and poise. It is not. It is gauche; tres, tres gauche.
When you are there you know that you can't possibly see every show so you pick and choose. From the comfort of your home in front of a computer screen you start to figure that you really can do something you have never been able to do before - - - see them all. Well guess what? You can't.
So far we have had NYC, London and Milan. We are now in Paris and we are not done. There are more shows after Paris. While they are lesser known shows, they are important to the designers who get walks in those venues. It is sort of like baseball. There are players on the farm teams who are working as hard as they can to improve and get that call to come up to the major league. For some it will happen.
In terms of actually blogging about the collections and the comments of the "professional" fashion writers, I will wait until Paris is over and I have had some time to digest what I have viewed. For now I just want to talk about a very disturbing trend in the industry.
A few years ago there was a lot of concern over the health of the models and the things they were doing to themselves to remain thin. For the most part, the banning of anyone under the age of 16 and not openly encouraging models to starve themselves has helped. Spain went as far as to take a stand and request that the designers use slightly larger models. So, on that front things are better.
What is not better is the obsession with youth. So far I have seen a couple of collections that are totally inappropriate for anyone over the age of 40. That said, my question is why do designers ignore a large portion of the population? More than that, why are they ignoring the portion of the population with the money to actually invest in their collections (e.g. purchases pieces)?
I understand that the runway shows are entertainment and that the garments may not go into production as you see them on the runway. That does not change the fact that when you are sitting in the audience thinking of your clientele you are sometimes angry at the designers for constantly pushing youth, youth, youth.
I do not know many 45 or 50 year old women who want to wear a skirt that is half way up their thighs. Nor are there many who want to wear tops that need underpinnings for the underpinnings in order to have enough support for the girls. You would think that these designers were all in their 20's and 30's. But alas, they are not. Some of them are older than I am and have mothers who cannot wear their clothing.
This is not what Coco Chanel had in mind; it is not what Yves Saint Laurent was striving for. It is not what Christian Dior envisioned. Some of what I have seen is a real slap in the face to the mature woman. They are blatant statements that say, "I don't want you in my clothes. You are too old."
I have a news flash for designers. Every woman on the planet, irrespective of age or dress size wants to be beautiful. Constantly catering to a segment of the population that cannot afford to purchase your clothing and does not have the sophistication to wear it with style and elegance it requires is not wise. If you think I am wrong, ask the designers who seem to get the idea that women who have the resources to shop are those who are not saving for a college fund for their kids.
So my hat is off to design houses such as Graeme Black, Akris, Dries Van Noten, Oscar de la Renta, Bottega Veneta, Donna Karan, etc. They are the ones who have figured out that the name of the game is to dress women so they can feel elegant. It is time for some of the rest to follow suit. Even Heidi Klum made a comment on Project Runway about a dress one of the contestants made 'aging the model 10 years'. OMG! So instead of looking 20 she looked 30? Add another 10 years and it would be time to put her in an assisted living facility to live out her final days.
The last thing I ever want to do is be or look 25 again. I have come a long way in 30 years and I do not want to re-plow old ground. I have moved on and in the process moved to a place of contentment. It really is better on this side of 40. Trust me. You've learned that not only is the grass not greener on the other side, you've learned it isn't grass at all. It is the deception and the false assumption being pushed that being flashy, and often inappropriate, is an acceptable substitute for sophistication elegance and poise. It is not. It is gauche; tres, tres gauche.
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