Okay, I have been a bit busier than I wanted to be with things that have absolutely nothing to do with fashion, runway shows, designers, etc. Family calls and of course, we all run to see what we can do to assist.
That said, one of the things that was so great about this little 2 1/2 month R&R was getting to spend some time with the dressmaker who got me started down this road; my mom. Of course there were a couple of sewing projects that I assisted on (and there are a couple more in the works). It seems that at 79 her eyes and hands aren't what they used to be. I had almost forgotten how strong your hands have to be when you begin to arduously tailor a jacket. The shaping and structure does not always happen easily. It especially does not happen easily when the client insists on a fabric that really isn't suited to the garment.
None the less, the client is always right and we aim to please. That said, I have to admit that I was remiss in my reporting on Fashion Week, NYC. I left out a designer who should be notably mentioned. Doo Ri. Not only is the collection great but the body of work (meaning technical) of this company is incredible.
One of this artisans you will search high and low for these days is a pattern maker. Guess what? Doo Ri has them and they farm their services out to other designers. They make custom pieces. They do custom tailoring. They really get what the industry is about.
Okay so you are now saying what about the European houses, especially the Italians? Well, I expect fine tailoring from them. It is an art form that still has some appeal in Europe and Asia. Here in the United States it is a lost art because it isn't seen as glamorous or high profile enough. People could not be more off base.
I will say it again, and again, and again. If you could go to your next cocktail party and when that inane question "What do you do?" comes up, out of your mouth flies "I am the head seamstress for Hermes." not one person will turn up their nose and dis you. Oh there may be that one idiot who doesn't understand who says "How nice". However, not one person who gets it will do that.
Jean-Paul Gaultier sketches a collection. He brings in Gigi to help with the fabric selections. Remy drafts the patterns. Collette cuts the garment. You supervise its construction. Because of the drape that Mr. Gaultier wanted and the resulting fabric selection, something just isn't working right on that sleeve. So you, the head seamstress gets to either re-cut or reshape the sleeve, even if it is ever so slight. Because you know your stuff, Mr. Gaultier yields to your expertise.
That my friends is power and authority. So the next time someone asks you if you want to learn to sew and you think to yourself, "why?", remember who really gets to say how the finished garment is constructed. Personally, if I were the head seamstress at Dior, Galliano, Hermes, de la Renta, Hererra, you name it . . . you couldn't hit me in the behind with a red apple.
Check out Doo Ri!!
a la prochaine.
Debra
Thursday, September 24, 2009
Wednesday, September 23, 2009
Fillmore /Fall /Fashion......................
Fall is officially here and San Francisco is feeling the chill in the air ,whether we want to or not. As Debra has said I love fall and all it has to offer ..A great cup of Peet's coffee on an early
fogged in morning ,whether indoors or meeting a friend @ the Ferry Building !!
I know one must think I flew to NYC for the Runway shows...but actually I have been assisting
a manager of a resale shop in the city ,prepare for a Fall extravaganza in the familiar Fillmore
district of the city . Yes it has been a challenge ,because we are pulling outfits for various models
semi-professional , pacific heights residents ...young ,mature ,and established ..Also we are pulling a variety of outfits that reflect the shop and and the donations offered on a daily basis .
The event will take place on Saturday , Oct.3rd and there will be a 20.00 donation for wine and food tasting from the local vendors ..The streets will be blocked off for a few blocks and 2 members of The Fashion Project will be strutting their stuff ..Debra ..........Kenney and I will make you proud .!!!!!!!!!!Pictures to follow .
I have also been following the runway shows also...but I am not ready to cash in my bonds to
purchase that must have item .Those who lean towards the magazines , I thought the October
issue of Vogue was so uninteresting .After about a few run throughs ..I begin tearing out items
to add to my vision board...So, sad I haven't even got a paper cut . Oh ,yes do not subscribe to
W mag unless you have money to cast to the wind .
In the city...shopping at all the resale shops in San Francisco has been a parking lot !!!There are
throngs of shoppers of all ages .The most pleasant part of that atmosphere is to shop wisely,
because all sales are final .. Just a few tips ,begin to think out of the box..towards a purchase..
1) maybe just a change of buttons would help to update the jacket...............
2) check through the men's section for a possible down jacket that can fit /a large boy's size
3)hats are in big time...especially fedoras,bowlers..oh yeah they did have one good article on hats
in the recent vogue....a fine Hermes ...get it blocked and cleaned ,add a new band and you are in the loop !!
4) plaid shirts/black vests...I think you have the picture now .
5) Take along a list to keep focused and arise with a jewel........................
More to come ......along with an entry re; the American Designers Spring looks......................
A demain
Janice
fogged in morning ,whether indoors or meeting a friend @ the Ferry Building !!
I know one must think I flew to NYC for the Runway shows...but actually I have been assisting
a manager of a resale shop in the city ,prepare for a Fall extravaganza in the familiar Fillmore
district of the city . Yes it has been a challenge ,because we are pulling outfits for various models
semi-professional , pacific heights residents ...young ,mature ,and established ..Also we are pulling a variety of outfits that reflect the shop and and the donations offered on a daily basis .
The event will take place on Saturday , Oct.3rd and there will be a 20.00 donation for wine and food tasting from the local vendors ..The streets will be blocked off for a few blocks and 2 members of The Fashion Project will be strutting their stuff ..Debra ..........Kenney and I will make you proud .!!!!!!!!!!Pictures to follow .
I have also been following the runway shows also...but I am not ready to cash in my bonds to
purchase that must have item .Those who lean towards the magazines , I thought the October
issue of Vogue was so uninteresting .After about a few run throughs ..I begin tearing out items
to add to my vision board...So, sad I haven't even got a paper cut . Oh ,yes do not subscribe to
W mag unless you have money to cast to the wind .
In the city...shopping at all the resale shops in San Francisco has been a parking lot !!!There are
throngs of shoppers of all ages .The most pleasant part of that atmosphere is to shop wisely,
because all sales are final .. Just a few tips ,begin to think out of the box..towards a purchase..
1) maybe just a change of buttons would help to update the jacket...............
2) check through the men's section for a possible down jacket that can fit /a large boy's size
3)hats are in big time...especially fedoras,bowlers..oh yeah they did have one good article on hats
in the recent vogue....a fine Hermes ...get it blocked and cleaned ,add a new band and you are in the loop !!
4) plaid shirts/black vests...I think you have the picture now .
5) Take along a list to keep focused and arise with a jewel........................
More to come ......along with an entry re; the American Designers Spring looks......................
A demain
Janice
Monday, September 21, 2009
On to London
Well as promised I spent the weekend reviewing the collections of the American designers who strutted their stuff at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in NYC. For the most part I found the collections to be pretty ho-hum. Don't get me wrong. Every single show had at least one piece that may you salivate. However, they also each had a piece that made you ask why.
The stand outs for me were Proenza Schouler, Isaac Mizrahi and, Badgley Mischa. All three of these collections managed to be fun, edgy, wearable, ageless and scream fashion. As I noted above, there were stand out pieces in each collection and Oscar, Carolina and Donna seemed to give you that standards that you could purchase and put in the closet as investments. There was absolutely nothing wrong with those collections. They gave me what I expected; fashion, quality, elegance and style.
However, for me that is what I do with fall/winter. Those are my 'go to' pieces. The pieces from the de la Renta's, Hererra's and Karan's for spring are those classic jackets and pants that get you through that luncheon meeting, that evening cruise on the harbor and the 'let me throw on something simple, stylish and elegant' moments. But for spring and summer, it is my chance to say 'take that!!'.
Proenza Schouler and Isaac Mizrahi managed to use shape and color and bring it to a new fashion art form. They choices were bright without being gaudy. They were soft without being fruffy. Most of all they were balanced without being safe. These two houses actually brought you those pieces you could add to 'pop' your closet. That one piece that is yet is not really you on your standard day but on that out of the box, in your face day, it is everything you would want to say to the world.
Badgley Mischa brought you that softly tailored, wearable look that is elegant yet not stuffy. It was easy to wear and easy to see on a variety of body types and across a wide section of age groups. They designed a collection that was easy to accessorize and make it your own. The use of black and white, the mixing of shapes and the drape of the garments was incredible; at least to me.
Janice is going to weigh in on the American crew also. I have moved on to London. That is where fashion week is today and for the next week or so. My only question is whether or not Tim Blanks is going to ease up on any of the design houses he is reviewing. He described Graeme Black's collection as 'putting a woman on the red carpet 24/7'. Sorry Tim. Just because I want to look great and make a statement doesn't mean I am on the red carpet. Maybe it means that I don't dress like a bum. Maybe I like silk. Maybe I love being fashionable. Maybe I would love to be seen as classically elegant and always pulled together.
He also pretty much panned Osman, Fahri and Anastase. I think the collections simply were not to his liking. I on the other hand at least did not find them staid as I did many of the American collections. Maybe this is even more evidence that I am a real fan of European fashion and think that American women are being cheated by having so little exposure to the varying levels of European fashion in the States.
As time goes on we will go from London to Milan and then to PARIS. I am also going to give you some of the 411 on the collections that will show at Pret-A-Porter. They should be starting up in a week or so also. Then of course, I am here in Bellevue for Fashion week. Even though it is technically a series of 'trunk shows' it is an exciting fashion event and worth checking out.
So, if any of our readers are in the Seattle area, check out the happenings in Bellevue Square and the surrounding area. Also, give a shout out to the man who had the vision and keeps it, Kemper Freeman. He is Fashion Week in Bellevue and everyone should thank him for putting it on the fashion map.
More to come.
a la prochaine
Debra
The stand outs for me were Proenza Schouler, Isaac Mizrahi and, Badgley Mischa. All three of these collections managed to be fun, edgy, wearable, ageless and scream fashion. As I noted above, there were stand out pieces in each collection and Oscar, Carolina and Donna seemed to give you that standards that you could purchase and put in the closet as investments. There was absolutely nothing wrong with those collections. They gave me what I expected; fashion, quality, elegance and style.
However, for me that is what I do with fall/winter. Those are my 'go to' pieces. The pieces from the de la Renta's, Hererra's and Karan's for spring are those classic jackets and pants that get you through that luncheon meeting, that evening cruise on the harbor and the 'let me throw on something simple, stylish and elegant' moments. But for spring and summer, it is my chance to say 'take that!!'.
Proenza Schouler and Isaac Mizrahi managed to use shape and color and bring it to a new fashion art form. They choices were bright without being gaudy. They were soft without being fruffy. Most of all they were balanced without being safe. These two houses actually brought you those pieces you could add to 'pop' your closet. That one piece that is yet is not really you on your standard day but on that out of the box, in your face day, it is everything you would want to say to the world.
Badgley Mischa brought you that softly tailored, wearable look that is elegant yet not stuffy. It was easy to wear and easy to see on a variety of body types and across a wide section of age groups. They designed a collection that was easy to accessorize and make it your own. The use of black and white, the mixing of shapes and the drape of the garments was incredible; at least to me.
Janice is going to weigh in on the American crew also. I have moved on to London. That is where fashion week is today and for the next week or so. My only question is whether or not Tim Blanks is going to ease up on any of the design houses he is reviewing. He described Graeme Black's collection as 'putting a woman on the red carpet 24/7'. Sorry Tim. Just because I want to look great and make a statement doesn't mean I am on the red carpet. Maybe it means that I don't dress like a bum. Maybe I like silk. Maybe I love being fashionable. Maybe I would love to be seen as classically elegant and always pulled together.
He also pretty much panned Osman, Fahri and Anastase. I think the collections simply were not to his liking. I on the other hand at least did not find them staid as I did many of the American collections. Maybe this is even more evidence that I am a real fan of European fashion and think that American women are being cheated by having so little exposure to the varying levels of European fashion in the States.
As time goes on we will go from London to Milan and then to PARIS. I am also going to give you some of the 411 on the collections that will show at Pret-A-Porter. They should be starting up in a week or so also. Then of course, I am here in Bellevue for Fashion week. Even though it is technically a series of 'trunk shows' it is an exciting fashion event and worth checking out.
So, if any of our readers are in the Seattle area, check out the happenings in Bellevue Square and the surrounding area. Also, give a shout out to the man who had the vision and keeps it, Kemper Freeman. He is Fashion Week in Bellevue and everyone should thank him for putting it on the fashion map.
More to come.
a la prochaine
Debra
Thursday, September 17, 2009
I Long for the Fall Shows
Hi Everyone,
I have been half-heartedly looking at the runway shows for Spring/Summer 2010. As I clicked through the slide shows, I was sadly reminded how much richer I, personally, find fall and winter fashions. It could be that I grew up in a place where, typically, summer clothing was not necessary. Here in the Pacific Northwest (much like in San Francisco) you can get away with a multi-purpose wardrobe. That said, I will be more diligent over the weekend at looking at the runway shows and expounding of fashion week.
For now I want to say a little more about what everyone needs to have at their disposal for this current season. Sadly, we are in need of a boost, economically, before we start dropping thousands of dollars on those incredible pieces (say that cashmere coat). So for most of us, it is going to be that search for the accessories that will give the current collection in our closet a face lift. I know I blogged about this earlier, but it is important. ACCESSORIES ARE KEY!!!
I am not suggesting that everyone go out and buy accessories for the sake of buying accessories. Figure out what you want your signature to be. Are you going to be known in your circle as the person who has incredible necklaces, pendants, etc.? Are you the bangle queen? Do you have a scarf for every occasion? Do you wear killer hose that really pop your outfits? Are you the "Bag, Borrow or Steal" for all of your friends (and no you cannot ask to borrow the Ferragamo bag, the Marc Jacobs yes, but not the Ferragamo)!? Do your shoes make everyone go nuts because you have the greatest collection ever (including boots)?
So I think you get my point. It is once again about being you. If you think the new Fendi bag is just not going to do it for you, don't get it because every fashion mag says you should not be seen without it. If those Louboutin's are just not to your liking, I don't care if your friends are all looking for shoes with red soles, leave them at the store. Nike's slogan is 'just do it'. For us the clarion call is 'just do you'!
Here is what I suggest, take out three outfits at a time. (Remember that we did the closet scrub and it is in pretty decent shape). Lay the outfits out on the bed and put the typical accessories you pair with them on the outfits. Now think of one additional, or replacement accessory that would be really nice. For me, I have this metallic bronze 3/4 sleeve leather jacket. It has large covered buttons for closures. I purchased a pair of chocolate brown elbow length leather gloves to go with it. It is a subtle look. So now I am going to pop it with a more colorful and vibrant pair of leather gloves. (No not black. That is too easy).
If you feel that you cannot do this (purchase the new accessories) with the outfit on the bed, do what I often do. Get out the garment bag that I know you have. We all have them. (I have them from Saks, Nordstrom, Neiman's, Macy's, Galaries Lafeyette, Le Bon Marche, Harrod's you name it, I probably have the bag). Place the entire outfit in the bag and haul it around with you. As long as you are not trying to match colors, find a new jacket, etc. the sales associates will be happy to help you find just the right scarf, gloves, hat, etc.
Here is the added bonus to the pack and haul approach. If the outfit is hanging in your closet, the assumption is that it is ready to wear. That means clean, pressed, steamed, etc. I know the temptation to hang that garment back in the closet and say, I'll get it to the dry cleaner's next week. Don't do that. You'll forget. Out of sight, out of mind really is true.
Invest in a chair to place by the front door. Loving drape the garment over the chair and when there are three garments on the chair (that is a pretty unsightly greeting as you return to your palace after a long day) you will be forced to scoop them up on your next outing and drop them off. Do not hang them in the hall closet either. Only ready to go clothes should be on hangers taking up room in the closet.
So, start figuring out your signature and 'just do you'!
a la prochaine
Debra
I have been half-heartedly looking at the runway shows for Spring/Summer 2010. As I clicked through the slide shows, I was sadly reminded how much richer I, personally, find fall and winter fashions. It could be that I grew up in a place where, typically, summer clothing was not necessary. Here in the Pacific Northwest (much like in San Francisco) you can get away with a multi-purpose wardrobe. That said, I will be more diligent over the weekend at looking at the runway shows and expounding of fashion week.
For now I want to say a little more about what everyone needs to have at their disposal for this current season. Sadly, we are in need of a boost, economically, before we start dropping thousands of dollars on those incredible pieces (say that cashmere coat). So for most of us, it is going to be that search for the accessories that will give the current collection in our closet a face lift. I know I blogged about this earlier, but it is important. ACCESSORIES ARE KEY!!!
I am not suggesting that everyone go out and buy accessories for the sake of buying accessories. Figure out what you want your signature to be. Are you going to be known in your circle as the person who has incredible necklaces, pendants, etc.? Are you the bangle queen? Do you have a scarf for every occasion? Do you wear killer hose that really pop your outfits? Are you the "Bag, Borrow or Steal" for all of your friends (and no you cannot ask to borrow the Ferragamo bag, the Marc Jacobs yes, but not the Ferragamo)!? Do your shoes make everyone go nuts because you have the greatest collection ever (including boots)?
So I think you get my point. It is once again about being you. If you think the new Fendi bag is just not going to do it for you, don't get it because every fashion mag says you should not be seen without it. If those Louboutin's are just not to your liking, I don't care if your friends are all looking for shoes with red soles, leave them at the store. Nike's slogan is 'just do it'. For us the clarion call is 'just do you'!
Here is what I suggest, take out three outfits at a time. (Remember that we did the closet scrub and it is in pretty decent shape). Lay the outfits out on the bed and put the typical accessories you pair with them on the outfits. Now think of one additional, or replacement accessory that would be really nice. For me, I have this metallic bronze 3/4 sleeve leather jacket. It has large covered buttons for closures. I purchased a pair of chocolate brown elbow length leather gloves to go with it. It is a subtle look. So now I am going to pop it with a more colorful and vibrant pair of leather gloves. (No not black. That is too easy).
If you feel that you cannot do this (purchase the new accessories) with the outfit on the bed, do what I often do. Get out the garment bag that I know you have. We all have them. (I have them from Saks, Nordstrom, Neiman's, Macy's, Galaries Lafeyette, Le Bon Marche, Harrod's you name it, I probably have the bag). Place the entire outfit in the bag and haul it around with you. As long as you are not trying to match colors, find a new jacket, etc. the sales associates will be happy to help you find just the right scarf, gloves, hat, etc.
Here is the added bonus to the pack and haul approach. If the outfit is hanging in your closet, the assumption is that it is ready to wear. That means clean, pressed, steamed, etc. I know the temptation to hang that garment back in the closet and say, I'll get it to the dry cleaner's next week. Don't do that. You'll forget. Out of sight, out of mind really is true.
Invest in a chair to place by the front door. Loving drape the garment over the chair and when there are three garments on the chair (that is a pretty unsightly greeting as you return to your palace after a long day) you will be forced to scoop them up on your next outing and drop them off. Do not hang them in the hall closet either. Only ready to go clothes should be on hangers taking up room in the closet.
So, start figuring out your signature and 'just do you'!
a la prochaine
Debra
Tuesday, September 15, 2009
Puttin' On the Ritz!!
The high end has finally arrived in the Pacific Northwest. Over the weekend, Bravern Center, in Bellevue, Washington opened boasting the first Neiman Marcus in the area. There were galas and very excited shoppers who were chomping at the bit to get a taste of luxury shopping at its best. I dare say they were not disappointed.
Local press covered the event and reported that there were those who had budgeted funds just to do a bit of shopping during the opening weekend. However, when I read that one woman had budgeted $100 to spend on cosmetics at Neiman Marcus, I wondered what exactly she was going to purchase. Another reported having saved money for a designer handbag. Her budget was between $850 and $1250. Again, I cringed. Not a lot of handbags, produced by the designers she was going to find at any of the shops at Bravern were going to be available at that price.
This is Nordstrom country. This is their backyard. This is where corporate headquarters happens to be along with the Nordstrom family. Until this past weekend, they were the highest ranking retail department store in town. Having spoken with a few people who graced the opening, I believe that Nordstrom is not going to lose many customers to the newly placed retail boutiques in Bravern Center. There was a great deal of sticker shock among the brave souls who ventured out to get a taste of 'designer label heaven'.
So to all of the press who are writing articles and generating newscasts indicating that Nordstrom now has some competition, please think again. Other than Piazza Sempione, Hermes and a couple of artisan bakeries, the offerings are already in the area.
If there is an avowed Louis Vuitton customer, they have already fled Nordstrom and gone to Fifth Avenue in Seattle to the Louis Vuitton boutique. They can already hop across the street and gander at the offerings at Gucci. It is true that Neiman's is going to carry some designers that are not in the current line up at Nordstrom but so what? It will be easy to hang on to the Nordstrom customer. That is still one of the anchors at Bellevue Square, which is three blocks west of Bravern Center, on NE 8th in Bellevue.
I personally hope that Bravern Center is a success. It is high time that a greater selection of luxury offerings were available to the shoppers of this area. However, I also have some suggestions for the company that owns Bellevue Square and the Bellevue Collection. No, I am not going to post those suggestions on this blog. I am going to send a private letter. Mr. Freeman deserves some degree of confidentiality and who knows, he may really like my suggestions.
Now that I have gotten that out of the way, I will acknowledge that Mercedes Benz Fashion Week is in full swing in NYC. I have been following the shows on-line this fashion season. I will begin reporting on the collections later this week. However, as you all know, I have always been a bit curious as to why Fall Fashion Week (meaning held in the fall and showing the collections for spring and summer of 2010) is always the big draw. I love fall fashion so for me the Fashion Weeks not to be missed begin in January.
Just the same, I know we must all dress for spring and summer. I will be fair and judicious in my comments. We'll start with NYC and work our way to Paris. For all of those who are wondering if I am having a bit of withdrawal (or downright depression) covering the events via the Internet instead of in person, the answer is yes. But, you have to do what you have to do. We, The Fashion Project, will be back in the saddle soon enough. Come January, we will be there, in person, in force and in style.
a la prochaine!!
Debra
Local press covered the event and reported that there were those who had budgeted funds just to do a bit of shopping during the opening weekend. However, when I read that one woman had budgeted $100 to spend on cosmetics at Neiman Marcus, I wondered what exactly she was going to purchase. Another reported having saved money for a designer handbag. Her budget was between $850 and $1250. Again, I cringed. Not a lot of handbags, produced by the designers she was going to find at any of the shops at Bravern were going to be available at that price.
This is Nordstrom country. This is their backyard. This is where corporate headquarters happens to be along with the Nordstrom family. Until this past weekend, they were the highest ranking retail department store in town. Having spoken with a few people who graced the opening, I believe that Nordstrom is not going to lose many customers to the newly placed retail boutiques in Bravern Center. There was a great deal of sticker shock among the brave souls who ventured out to get a taste of 'designer label heaven'.
So to all of the press who are writing articles and generating newscasts indicating that Nordstrom now has some competition, please think again. Other than Piazza Sempione, Hermes and a couple of artisan bakeries, the offerings are already in the area.
If there is an avowed Louis Vuitton customer, they have already fled Nordstrom and gone to Fifth Avenue in Seattle to the Louis Vuitton boutique. They can already hop across the street and gander at the offerings at Gucci. It is true that Neiman's is going to carry some designers that are not in the current line up at Nordstrom but so what? It will be easy to hang on to the Nordstrom customer. That is still one of the anchors at Bellevue Square, which is three blocks west of Bravern Center, on NE 8th in Bellevue.
I personally hope that Bravern Center is a success. It is high time that a greater selection of luxury offerings were available to the shoppers of this area. However, I also have some suggestions for the company that owns Bellevue Square and the Bellevue Collection. No, I am not going to post those suggestions on this blog. I am going to send a private letter. Mr. Freeman deserves some degree of confidentiality and who knows, he may really like my suggestions.
Now that I have gotten that out of the way, I will acknowledge that Mercedes Benz Fashion Week is in full swing in NYC. I have been following the shows on-line this fashion season. I will begin reporting on the collections later this week. However, as you all know, I have always been a bit curious as to why Fall Fashion Week (meaning held in the fall and showing the collections for spring and summer of 2010) is always the big draw. I love fall fashion so for me the Fashion Weeks not to be missed begin in January.
Just the same, I know we must all dress for spring and summer. I will be fair and judicious in my comments. We'll start with NYC and work our way to Paris. For all of those who are wondering if I am having a bit of withdrawal (or downright depression) covering the events via the Internet instead of in person, the answer is yes. But, you have to do what you have to do. We, The Fashion Project, will be back in the saddle soon enough. Come January, we will be there, in person, in force and in style.
a la prochaine!!
Debra
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