Sunday, May 3, 2009

The First 100 Days

Okay, last Wednesday marked the first 100 days. While the honeymoon is not over for the First Family, I think we can all make honest assessments at this time. As this is a fashion blog, we are going to comment on - - - you guessed it, the First Lady's fashion choices.





Let me start with this. I wish I were as tall as she is and had those killer arms and shoulders. Who am I kidding. At 5'3" I'd settle for just three or four more inches. That would solve the issue with getting pants hemmed, sleeves shortened, skirts hemmed (or if there is a border on the hem, re-cut and reattached at the waist). I also do not think that Mrs. Obama is showing too much arm. As I said, if I had those arms I'd be a happy woman.





However, I have to say that I am a bit disappointed with some of her choices and I do not think she is doing the American fashion industry justice. J. Crew is great and for casual knocking around it is a good choice. Mrs. Obama has truly connected with the everyday American woman.





People love that she shops off the rack. People love that they can afford what she is choosing to wear (okay $545 Lavin sneaks are out of many people's price range). However, there are times when I truly wish she would step up to her new station and dress the part. She owes it to the American public and to the American fashion industry.





My first disappointment was on election night. It was absolutely the wrong dress for the wrong occasion. Narcisco Rodriguez is a very talented designer and if you had seen the dress the way it was intended to be worn, it is a great dress. The dress is very open in the back and there may have been a thought that to wear it without that knit shrug would have been inappropriate. Also, if I had been selling her that dress (of course for a different occasion) I would have suggested one size larger and altered the bodice to fit. It was a bit too snug around the hips.





Next disappointment - - - inauguration day (the whole day)! Isabel Toledo, who was at one time with Anne Klein, was not a bad choice. She is a talented designer. For me the ensemble was a bit too sparkly for a daytime event and was not as classic as the occasion deserved. Also, had it been in a different fabric, it would have been great on her mother. It was too old and staid for Mrs. Obama. I know I have been talking about the American designers so this next comment may sound strange.





I would have gone to Ralph Lauren or Oscar de la Renta and asked them to design a very classic double breasted coat dress. The kind Yves Saint Laurent would have designed. That whole tuxedo jacket cut, classic lapels, etc. only longer. I would have used a double faced wool or a very nice wool crepe. And yes, I would have chosen midnight blue. You know that navy that is so dark it is hard to tell if it is black or blue.It could have been lined with pashmina for warmth or we could have hunted down some snuggies. If you are under 40 you may not know what those are. They are fancy long johns designed for women.





I would have popped it with a wonderful scarf that contained shades of pale and medium greys mixed with magenta and warm pinks on a cream colored base. I would have found a pair of medium grey cashmere lined leather gloves and an incredible pair of medium grey flat or low-heeled boots. It would have been a very sophisticated pulled together look. You could have made it a bit edgy with the choice of boots, and a very modern asymmetrical brooch. Or even one with beaded chains that simply drop to soft semi-circles.





The earrings were good but again if you wanted edgy that was a place to make your statement while maintaining a classic look. These are my thoughts and there are fashion people who will not agree but I defy them to tell me that every single appearance has been a hit.





The choice of gown for inauguration night was not the best for me. In defense of Mr. Wu, he was asked to design a gown for a special occasion. Had he known it was a ball gown he may have omitted or shortened the train. Also, he would have made it about an inch shorter. Ladies if you cannot see the tips of your shoes peeking from underneath the gown, it is too long. I will say this again and again and you will believe me when you spend an evening stepping on the hem of that gown, grinding dirt into it with every move.





Now, it may have been difficult but I would have approached Oscar de la Renta and asked if I could take his citrine charmeuse one shoulder gown for a spin. It is magnificent and it is from the pre-fall 2009 collection. Clearly citrine is a color Mrs. Obama likes. It would have been a better choice than the white, one shoulder Jason Wu that did not photograph well for television. I heard comments about chenille because you could not tell that the fluffy appliques were flowers. Even I would describe it as chenille from the television shots.





I can't even begin to address the state visit to Europe. Again, she should remember her new station and step up when appropriate. However, I must comment on the blue disaster. It was edgy but in my estimation wrong on so many levels. She needs to find a stylist who will keep her personality in mind, her penchant for comfort and her desire to remain connected to everyday fashion. It can be done. I would just stop doing all of the one-shot outfits. There are garments that she cannot were to public events again for the next 4 to 8 years. That is not a statement of frugality in difficult economic times.





I loved the outfit she wore at the concert at the Lincoln Memorial. It was pulled together, not overdone and looked comfortable and warm. If she wants to stick with Ikram, out of Chicago, then someone needs to have a serious discussion with them and explain the lay of the land. Start allowing Mrs. Obama to speak with some of the top fashion designers who can dress her for those all important state affairs. Someone who can explain protocol. Someone who can work with her to establish a look. Someone who knows how to do edgy on a classic canvas.





I have had discussions with Janice and we generally agree on most of the misses and hits so far. As far as wanting to stay connected to the everyday woman, then try some designers who design patterns for Vogue home sewing. There are many; Chado Ralph Rucci, Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Anne Klein, Oscar de la Renta, Badgley/Mischka just to name a few.





And for her next cocktail party, again, a killer dress from Oscar de la Renta. It is a black silk faille and lame one shoulder dress. The bodice treatment is classic for a one shoulder dress and the skirt is edgier than hell. I love it. If only I had the arms and shoulders to carry it off. It would be well worth the investment. Beautiful clothes make you feel beautiful. Yves Saint Laurent knew how to help women step into their power. So do the top names in fashion today. Mrs. Obama, please give them the opportunity to work with you. I promise you will love the experience.

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