While doing some editing of the fashion magazine collection I picked up the September 2008 issue of "W". As with all of the fashion mags, that is the issue everyone awaits with much anticipation. I was struck by the edginess of the collections. Not just those you expected to be edgy, but even the collections from designers who trend toward the more classic tailored looks. That made me wonder if somehow they sensed that a big change was coming to the world of fashion.
In a couple of weeks the new September issues will be hitting the newsstands along with the specialty collection magazines. It is easy to drop a couple of hundred dollars as you pick up French and Italian Vogue, The Collection, "V" and a couple of the other choice publications. Based on what was on the runways in the spring, the looks will be less edgy and more classic. These will be garments that will stand the test of time and be able to hang in your closet for a long time to come.
There are always the designers who go straight to the edge irrespective of what seems to be happening in the world of fashion. One of those designers is Rei Kawakubo of Commes Des Garcons. She is who she is and one thing is for sure. Rei will never hold back. She is going to take you straight to the edge and leave you there until you decide to turn back or take the leap. Others like Haider Ackermann and Anne Demulemeester gave you edge. However, it was a decidedly sophisticated edge. Many of the items in those collections will work in your closet for many years to come. Some items, like the Ackermann sculptured leather and wool vest will become iconic show pieces that cause people to stop you and ask "OMG where did you get that?!".
In 2008, even Carolina Herrera was on the soft side of edgy with many of the pieces in her collection. In 2010 she brings you back to the really softly tailored feminine side of her collection; and yes, even the Herrera sleeves are back. The Queen of Goth, Anne Demulemeester, was decidely on the edge in 2008. It was an edge I was willing to go to even though my friends did not understand my fascination with this very sophisticated Goth collection. In 2010 I have to say that there are pieces in her collection makeing it absolutely clear that she is the Queen of Goth. There are pieces in that collection that I would suggest to my 80 year old mother. There are a couple of long black coats that are absolutely stunning and in 2025 you could whip them out and take them for a spin around the block no problem.
So even though you are not like all of us here at the fashion project with more fashion magazines than you could ever imagine, you do have access to the 2008 and 2010 collections through www.style.com. Check them out when you get the chance. You will see the stark reality of the impact of the economic downturn on the collections the designers are opting to create and put on the runways.
These changes are a reaction to what we are willing to pay to put clothes on our backs. Three years ago I would not have hesitated to purchase a $4,500 Haider Ackermann vest. But now, even those who can afford to purchase luxury ready to wear want durable garments. By that I mean something that will stand the test of time. No wild colors, no strange cuts, no awkward drapes and certainly no strangely paired prints and plaids. We are talking classic lines, colors and accents to give the ensemble just the right "pop".
Even when times get better economically, people will be searching for value. Gone are the days when we were willing to drop $6,000 on and outfit. So the MSRP's may be droping in order to get retailers to place orders. No retailer is going to agree to continue to pay the mark down fees because they can't move the merchandise at full price.
So stay tuned. More to come on the fashion front regarding price and even what we, the average Jane, will pay to shop at places such as Bergdorf Goodman, Saks, Macy's and even Target.
a la prochaine
Debra
Wednesday, August 11, 2010
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