I know there has been an eight day break since the last post. Well that is because a lot has been going on. As I stated when we started these review, we have time. It seems that not only will we have time but I will have ample opportunity to post.
As we age we tend to attribute aches and pains to the process of maturing. However, it seems that the ache that has sidelined me is actually a fractured tibia. Not to worry it is just the very tip of it but it prompted xrays that sent every orthopedic surgeon, worth their salt, into hyper mode. I am on track for a full replacement of my left knee in early or mid-March. So - - time is definitely not in short supply.
I want to take a little break from the review of fashion from the runway shows. Well actually I guess that is not exactly true. For those who are fans of "Project Runway" there is a show in Bryant Park that one can attend each March. The final show aired last night and a winner was named. For those of you, who like me, did not really follow the show religiously, there was a marathon presentation.
In watching the marathon, with my knee being iced and on pain medication, I was stunned at who was allowed to continue and who was voted off. I was also a bit disappointed with the judges and their assessments of the fashions and the narrow perspective with which they view fashion.
The staples, in terms of judging were Michael Kors, Nina Garcia, the former Editor at Large from Marie Claire Magazine and Heidi Klum. Let's start there.
I own one piece of Michael Kors. It is a sweater wrap with a shawl collar that falls to points in the front. He is not my favorite designer because I do not find his designs exciting or particularly fashion forward. He is a top fashion designer but let's face it, if someone said you can have a Michael Kors or a Donna Karan, give me Donna any day of the week and twice on Sunday.
Nina Garcia was the editor at large of a 'fashion' magazine that I, as a fashionista, pretty much ignore. I also refer to her as the former Editor at Large as Abigail Pesta was named Editor at Large in early November. Let's be realistic for a moment. Even though Marie Claire is a Conde Nast Publication, it isn't Vogue, it isn't Glamour, it isn't W and it certainly isn't V. The magazines allow you to play with the art of fashion. Marie Claire never gave me the sense that it really understood the art of the shoot.
Heidi Klum is legendary. No one can say that she has not stunned audiences on the runways of the world. No one can discount her stature in the fashion world. No one can say with any credibility that she has not reached the stature afforded to the rare few who are designated as 'super models'. That said, Heidi's taste is Heidi's taste. It does not necessarily translate to all women's taste and to me there was no accounting for the value held by garments she personally would not wear. It really should be all about fashion, not about your personal taste.
I understand that it was a competition but the situations that the designers were forced into were not realistic. Remember I have some exposure to this world and I know what it takes to construct some of the garments and that no one is going to give me $100 to construct a designer ball gown. If they do, I am not giving them anything that they will want to wear. Even so, I must say that it was clear among the designers who could sew and who could not. Those who could sew and understood construction fared much better than those who could not.
While the winner was not a surprise it was to me sad given the attitude of the industry and the need to begin to change that attitude. Irina Shabayeva came across as an egotistical spoiled brat. I found it strange that she would accuse one of the other designers of copying her ideas. Was she serious? Did you see the 'winning' collection she sent down the runway? Where was the originality in those designs?
Any fashionista would have looked at the head pieces and said "Prada". They would have looked at the leather, the black and the 'goth' aspect and said "Demeulemester". They would have looked at her "big" gown and said "Versace", even though it was a bad imitation. She won because she made a tee shirt that gave you a glimpse of her soul? Please, she bastardized a copy written image and used it as her own. Yeah I know all about copyright exceptions and the use of part of the image and the substantial altering that allows one to use someone else's image. However, don't then call this person brilliant. They plagiarized. It is what it is.
On the next season of "Project Runway" I would love to see two competing supermodels as staples with regard to the judges. Let's have Heidi match ideas with Tyra Banks, Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell, Rene Russo, Beverly Johnson. Let's have an editor from a more popular fashion magazine or even a lifestyle magazine that has a healthy dose of fashion. Let's have people who really have to take these clothes around the block weigh-in. Let's have some more mature women on the show. Let's have a mix of models based on age, and OMG body type. Let's provide the designers an opportunity to really show what they can do. Give them three muses as staples and for each challenge they must design a look for all three. And finally, let's have a real stable of top designers weighing in, not just Michael Kors, he bores me.
But whatever you do, do not let Tim Gunn go anywhere. He is the bright spot on the show. He understands the importance of a collection that shows well on the runway. He understands style, which is not the same thing as fashion. He honestly, but constructively, tells the contestants what is wrong, missing, not working, difficult to pull off or just a plain 'don't do that'. I know he has held faculty and board positions at Parson's and that he heads creative design are Liz Clairborne. However, I don't know if he has ever designed his very own collection. I would love to see what he would do.
AHA! New concept for the show. Have the Tim Gunn's of the world design collections that would go down the runway on the final show along with the three top contestants. Let's add some pucker factor. Irina against Tom Ford, Carol Hannah against, Nicolas Ghesquiere (you did slightly copy his draping) and Althea against, Donna Karan (the sportswear separates queen). Barring the actual development of a line for the show, how about having them judge the final show. That would be amazing.
Who would I have picked? Probably Althea. The collection was cohesive and it was truly sportswear for now. It was comfortable, it was easy and she has much less attitude than Irina. The industry could use her humble stance.
a la prochaine
Debra
Friday, November 20, 2009
Thursday, November 12, 2009
Three Italian Houses
Well last time we focused on three French houses. This time the focus is on three Italian houses.
Since the French houses were household names let's do the same this time. How about Ferragamo, Versace and Gucci. I thought about Armani but that house deserves a blog post of its own.
I want to end on an up note so let's start with Gucci. It wasn't a great collection and it wasn't a terrible collection. Frida Giannini brought a mix of color, the obligatory whites for spring and of course the fashion staple, black. I just wasn't wowed by what made its way down the runway. I find myself wondering if there is any longing for the others in the fashion house to have Tom Ford reappear and once again propel them to a higher fashion plane.
I must say that the use of gray and a grayish blue were nice touches and went well with the basic black and white pieces. I simply wasn't a fan of the 'bandage' look of some of the garments. I was also a little disappointed with the cut work on some of the garments. Akris has perfected cut work and illusions. Anyone who attempts to do the same now has a pretty high standard to meet. For me it just fell a little short.
Now for the redemption. There are some great jackets in this collection. For me it is the use of hardware and zippers that really sold the pieces. While the skirts were a bit short for 'women of a certain age' these jackets are ageless. There was something there whether you have a tendency toward the biker look, a bit of Nehru (yeah that dates me), a bit of rock or just something out of the ordinary grab and go jacket for that coolish spring evening.
One of the real appeals for me was the use of the stark white and silver hardware. It gives the pieces a gleam and makes them pop in a way that will allow you to pull the jacket out four seasons from now, throw it on with a pair of jeans and wear the same way that classic leather jacket wears. I love being able to do that. To be trendy with something that has staying power is an art. Ms. Giannini pulled that off with her jackets.
So, as I said, it wasn't a bad collection. I simply wasn't blown away. Could I have done better? Of course not. Everyone has to remember that I cannot draw so getting that concept out of my head and onto paper is not likely to happen. Ms. Giannini does have talent, that is clear. Maybe I just wish she had more range.
The rumor mill is working overtime. Word on the street is that Donatella is not long for the 'world' in terms of retaining control of the house. There are those in the industry who believe that it is time for the iconic label to be headed by someone other than a Versace. Whether this is true or not, I personally feel that some sort of change is in order.
The past couple of seasons (fall and resort) have sort of left me cold. There was the obligatory dark cast and metallics for fall and the bursts of color for resort. However, there was something decidedly desperate in these collections for my taste. I see no reason to have a dress slit so high in the front you are afraid to walk let alone sit down. To me, the slink looked 'bargain basement' and I am not used to seeing the Italians use fabrics that are not sumptuous. Some of them gave the appearance of the remnant table at some third rate establishment that would be named 'Freida's Fabric Warehouse'.
Now let's move up to Spring 2010. Again, not wonderful, at least for me. Of course there was color and the use of sheers. The skirts were decidedly short (as were most of the other collections this season) and not catering to anyone over the age of 35. Once more we were looking at slits up to there, skirts hitting the models above mid-thigh and of course the body conscious form fitting look that Versace is known for. It is just getting a bit old.
I wanted to see some sophistication. I wanted to see this label grow up and become incredibly classic. There was one dusty pink suit that had silver studding as embellishments and the standard fare of zippers. Lengthen the skirt about 4 inches and it's a hit. If you have a youngish look and the personality to get away with it, you could be 45 to 50 and pull it off. There was one gown in a pale peach, again with silver embellishments, that had an interesting bodice and a very fluid and graceful skirt. But again, it would be difficult to wear if you were a mature woman.
This collection, more than most, leaves me wondering what it is going to look like in production. How will it be toned down to allow you to take it on a spin around the block? What will happen to those deep slits that few everyday women would be comfortable sporting? When will the desperate need for younger and younger fashions give way to a realization that no matter what age, women want to look great and they would like to see designs that they would feel appropriate wearing?
Again, that is just me. You need to really check out this collection and help me figure out what is redeeming and what is not. Because, if the rumors are true, I would say it was the last three or four collections that have the house reeling and wondering if it is time for a change.
Last but not least, Salvatore Ferragamo. As I read what some of the fashion writers have to say about the collections and the artistic directors at Ferragamo, I am convinced that there is simply a dislike of this label. Cristina Ortiz has not done a terrible job. I think that she has been much maligned. It will be interesting to see what is said about Massimiliano Giornetti.
One of the criticisms of the collection was a silhouette that placed more fabric around the hips and thighs. This made the pants appear to be an adaptation of jodphurs and the skirts a take on the same. I have always found it interesting to hear the comments about jodphurs. There really is a utilitarian reason for the silhouette and cut. It is called comfort and ease. I personally found them to be a bit out of proportion but at least there was an appropriate use of volume and closeness to the body for the bodice and sleeves of the complimentary pieces.
I liked the collection. I found it to be wearable and maybe to the fashion writers who only see the "art" of the show as opposed to the utility of the collection, that is boring. Panning Ms. Ortiz is of no benefit. It is also pointless. Graeme Black was given the same treatment as the AD at Ferragamo. His failings were attributed to the fact that he had his own label he was trying to launch while designing for Ferragamo. Well I say "that's bull!" His collection was a knockout punch and his talent is unquestioned. I think that the next stop for Ms. Ortiz will give her a chance to continue to design incredible collections for a label that the writers may view more favorably.
As I said, I want to see what Massimiliano Giornetti has up his sleeve. Right now it is a menswear sleeve so hopefully he can soften that look and bring it to women. I see the ads in the fashion mags and I see the garments in the Ferragamo Boutiques. They are incredible and have the richness of hand that the Italians are known for promoting.
If he gets panned we will have proof that it has nothing to do with the vision of the ADs at the House of Salvatore Ferragamo. It has to do with the closed minds of the fashion writers who have been sheep-like in their reporting of various labels because it is what everyone says. Sign me up as a 'Ferragamo Fan'. I wish Ms. Ortiz the best as she moves forward and I hope that Mr. Giornetti has a stellar run. And Ms. Ortiz, don't fret. Ask Graeme Black how it feels to be on top of your game. He too was panned and has proven that the fashion writers don't know everything.
a la prochaine
Debra
Since the French houses were household names let's do the same this time. How about Ferragamo, Versace and Gucci. I thought about Armani but that house deserves a blog post of its own.
I want to end on an up note so let's start with Gucci. It wasn't a great collection and it wasn't a terrible collection. Frida Giannini brought a mix of color, the obligatory whites for spring and of course the fashion staple, black. I just wasn't wowed by what made its way down the runway. I find myself wondering if there is any longing for the others in the fashion house to have Tom Ford reappear and once again propel them to a higher fashion plane.
I must say that the use of gray and a grayish blue were nice touches and went well with the basic black and white pieces. I simply wasn't a fan of the 'bandage' look of some of the garments. I was also a little disappointed with the cut work on some of the garments. Akris has perfected cut work and illusions. Anyone who attempts to do the same now has a pretty high standard to meet. For me it just fell a little short.
Now for the redemption. There are some great jackets in this collection. For me it is the use of hardware and zippers that really sold the pieces. While the skirts were a bit short for 'women of a certain age' these jackets are ageless. There was something there whether you have a tendency toward the biker look, a bit of Nehru (yeah that dates me), a bit of rock or just something out of the ordinary grab and go jacket for that coolish spring evening.
One of the real appeals for me was the use of the stark white and silver hardware. It gives the pieces a gleam and makes them pop in a way that will allow you to pull the jacket out four seasons from now, throw it on with a pair of jeans and wear the same way that classic leather jacket wears. I love being able to do that. To be trendy with something that has staying power is an art. Ms. Giannini pulled that off with her jackets.
So, as I said, it wasn't a bad collection. I simply wasn't blown away. Could I have done better? Of course not. Everyone has to remember that I cannot draw so getting that concept out of my head and onto paper is not likely to happen. Ms. Giannini does have talent, that is clear. Maybe I just wish she had more range.
The rumor mill is working overtime. Word on the street is that Donatella is not long for the 'world' in terms of retaining control of the house. There are those in the industry who believe that it is time for the iconic label to be headed by someone other than a Versace. Whether this is true or not, I personally feel that some sort of change is in order.
The past couple of seasons (fall and resort) have sort of left me cold. There was the obligatory dark cast and metallics for fall and the bursts of color for resort. However, there was something decidedly desperate in these collections for my taste. I see no reason to have a dress slit so high in the front you are afraid to walk let alone sit down. To me, the slink looked 'bargain basement' and I am not used to seeing the Italians use fabrics that are not sumptuous. Some of them gave the appearance of the remnant table at some third rate establishment that would be named 'Freida's Fabric Warehouse'.
Now let's move up to Spring 2010. Again, not wonderful, at least for me. Of course there was color and the use of sheers. The skirts were decidedly short (as were most of the other collections this season) and not catering to anyone over the age of 35. Once more we were looking at slits up to there, skirts hitting the models above mid-thigh and of course the body conscious form fitting look that Versace is known for. It is just getting a bit old.
I wanted to see some sophistication. I wanted to see this label grow up and become incredibly classic. There was one dusty pink suit that had silver studding as embellishments and the standard fare of zippers. Lengthen the skirt about 4 inches and it's a hit. If you have a youngish look and the personality to get away with it, you could be 45 to 50 and pull it off. There was one gown in a pale peach, again with silver embellishments, that had an interesting bodice and a very fluid and graceful skirt. But again, it would be difficult to wear if you were a mature woman.
This collection, more than most, leaves me wondering what it is going to look like in production. How will it be toned down to allow you to take it on a spin around the block? What will happen to those deep slits that few everyday women would be comfortable sporting? When will the desperate need for younger and younger fashions give way to a realization that no matter what age, women want to look great and they would like to see designs that they would feel appropriate wearing?
Again, that is just me. You need to really check out this collection and help me figure out what is redeeming and what is not. Because, if the rumors are true, I would say it was the last three or four collections that have the house reeling and wondering if it is time for a change.
Last but not least, Salvatore Ferragamo. As I read what some of the fashion writers have to say about the collections and the artistic directors at Ferragamo, I am convinced that there is simply a dislike of this label. Cristina Ortiz has not done a terrible job. I think that she has been much maligned. It will be interesting to see what is said about Massimiliano Giornetti.
One of the criticisms of the collection was a silhouette that placed more fabric around the hips and thighs. This made the pants appear to be an adaptation of jodphurs and the skirts a take on the same. I have always found it interesting to hear the comments about jodphurs. There really is a utilitarian reason for the silhouette and cut. It is called comfort and ease. I personally found them to be a bit out of proportion but at least there was an appropriate use of volume and closeness to the body for the bodice and sleeves of the complimentary pieces.
I liked the collection. I found it to be wearable and maybe to the fashion writers who only see the "art" of the show as opposed to the utility of the collection, that is boring. Panning Ms. Ortiz is of no benefit. It is also pointless. Graeme Black was given the same treatment as the AD at Ferragamo. His failings were attributed to the fact that he had his own label he was trying to launch while designing for Ferragamo. Well I say "that's bull!" His collection was a knockout punch and his talent is unquestioned. I think that the next stop for Ms. Ortiz will give her a chance to continue to design incredible collections for a label that the writers may view more favorably.
As I said, I want to see what Massimiliano Giornetti has up his sleeve. Right now it is a menswear sleeve so hopefully he can soften that look and bring it to women. I see the ads in the fashion mags and I see the garments in the Ferragamo Boutiques. They are incredible and have the richness of hand that the Italians are known for promoting.
If he gets panned we will have proof that it has nothing to do with the vision of the ADs at the House of Salvatore Ferragamo. It has to do with the closed minds of the fashion writers who have been sheep-like in their reporting of various labels because it is what everyone says. Sign me up as a 'Ferragamo Fan'. I wish Ms. Ortiz the best as she moves forward and I hope that Mr. Giornetti has a stellar run. And Ms. Ortiz, don't fret. Ask Graeme Black how it feels to be on top of your game. He too was panned and has proven that the fashion writers don't know everything.
a la prochaine
Debra
Sunday, November 8, 2009
More from the Runways
Once again I have returned to provide some commentary on the runways. We have decided to look at some of the more well known designers today. That may provide everyone with a better comfort level and get everyone a bit more excited about the fashion that is on the horizon for spring.
Mr. Lagerfeld clearly decided to continue his theme from the Fall collection. Looking fresh and clean (though spotted with hay) there was a decided easy and country feel to the collection. It was as elegant as the landed gentry look that was introduced for Fall 2009, and as subtle with the use of color.
There were muted tweeds and plaids, and soft shades of beige, coral and pink blended into ensembles that were structured but feminine. Ruffles were used to add volume to texture and volume to jackets while skirts were kept minimal (with regard to shape and fit). In describing the jackets to someone I tried to get them to picture taking the classic Chanel jacket, cropping the sleeve at the elbow and encrusting it with soft organza or chiffon ruffles.
If there were misses for me it was in the dresses, which were a little to "Bo Peep" for me and some of the outerwear that while inspired, wasn't paired to my liking. There was also a black suit with a head-scarf that to me was a bit of 'nuns gone wrong'. I would definitely lose the scarf and maybe ditch the classic Lagerfeld glove look before taking this one on a spin around the block.
It is a very large collection (72 looks going down the runway) which meant that there was something for everyone. There were some great white shirts, a couple of wonderful skirts and of course, the classic Chanel jacket made relevant for today. The contrasting textures made for interesting looks though I must say that for me, some of the pairings of lace with heavy tweed and boucles seemed a bit off balance.
But, as it has been stated many times in this blog, my individual taste is not the issue. It was by all counts an inspired collection. Karl Lagerfeld is one of the most prolific designers in the industry producing content for not only his own label and Chanel but also for Fendi. To put 72 looks on the runway for Chanel alone is amazing.
Okay, I know he has help but ultimately he is the one who decides what the collection looks like and how it is themed. Tying Spring 2010 to Fall 2009 was brilliant in many ways. Even the selection of fabrics and colors (considering the weight and textures) was brilliant. If you happen to have purchased a pair of Chanel pants or a Chanel skirt from the Fall collection, you will have no problem pulling up a jacket from Spring to pair with it to give it a lighter, more jaunty feel.
Clearly Jean Paul Gaultier was in the mood for tennis. However, some of the outfits would be outlawed at Wimbledon due to the very un-British use of 'color'. I loved it. I know that I touched briefly on the collection in a previous post but I really needed to come back and do this collection justice.
Mr. Gaultier took you from playing on the court to the stands to lunch at the club with the gang to that elegant dinner at that great restaurant overlooking the Seine with this collection. There were only a couple of pieces that I honestly would not want in my closet. As for the rest of the collection, simply dust of the checkbook, check card, credit card or whatever you are using these days and add just one piece. I promise you it will be in your closet for years. Even if you pull this piece out 15 years from now it will be current, fashionable, 'trendy' and guaranteed to generate that age old question "where did you find that?"
I am convinced that Mr. Gaultier is the President of La Chambre Syndicale because he gets it! He understands the difference between the me who would go to Hermes to purchase a garment as opposed to the me who would go to the Gaultier Boutique to purchase a garment. He manages to understand that fashion must run the gamut and appeal to a wide range of women from may different walks of life.
No he did not ignore the trend of the sheer garment. He simply made the sheer garment wearable by many. He also made sure that if was purchased from Hermes, that sheer garment could be worn and would be relevant for many seasons to come. And if you go to the site and look at the show, his models are more like real women with curves and some meat on their bones.
No they are not a size 12 or 14 but it is hard to imagine that any of these ladies could comfortably fit into a size 0. They have shape and their legs do not look like the arms of an eight-year-old. But you know what; this is not a surprise to me. This is also the man who put a 51 year old model on the runway because he needed a look and a feel that he knew he could not get from a 17 year-old 'gamine'. He needed a real woman and he boldly put her on the runway. She brought the house down with applause and now Mr. Gaultier is using that same 'look' to sell Hermes. Brilliant.
Okay, now that I have drawn the contrast I might as well review Gaultier's own label. The trends are clear. Sheer, lingerie as outer garments, great coats and beige tones as the base of the tapestry. Gaultier knows exactly who he caters to for each collection. The proliferation of denim, tattered legs, conical bras and hose was the clear appeal to the current pop stars who are always at the shows and ready to shop. I must say that of everything that went down the runways, he nailed them.
While in the Hermes collection he used some bold and primary colors, in his collection he used oranges and other vibrant colors to draw you in and keep you hooked. For me a great deal of the collection is not age appropriate. However, there are some outer garments that I would grab in a heartbeat. There is a camel colored classic trench that I would be more than willing to pay the asking price to own. There were also a couple of very soft untailored and almost deconstructed coats that have that great throw on and go appeal.
Rest assured that the look of the more voluptuous model is not a fleeting theme for Gaultier. He has continued the theme in his own collection, where it was introduced for Spring 2009. Women world-wide are thanking him because there is no longer that doubt that designers know we can't all be a size 0 or 2. Mr. Gaultier may have put some rags on the runway and accentuated that tattered look but trust me, there was not a 'bone' in the bunch.
I am really excited about the arrival of Kirsten because maybe she can walk us through the process of loading some photos to the blog so we can begin to show you what we are describing in our writing. It will eliminate the need for you to log on to the different shows to see what we are talking about. In the meantime, go to the site and have a look. You will be amazed, and I defy you to keep that desire to buy at bay. Both of Mr. Gaultier's contributions for Spring 2010 are great.
Okay, that is only three collections and they are all from the Paris shows. But, that is enough for today. Tomorrow, three more. If there is a particular collection you would like our take on, I am happy to do that. Maybe since I made a small joke of them, we can get Janice to do an in depth on 'Rag & Bone'. They show in NYC so that is her territory. However, Kirsten and I have not been barred from reporting on the New York shows. We'll see what happens. Between the three of us, we will somehow get that in depth onto the posts of the blog.
a la prochaine
Debra
Mr. Lagerfeld clearly decided to continue his theme from the Fall collection. Looking fresh and clean (though spotted with hay) there was a decided easy and country feel to the collection. It was as elegant as the landed gentry look that was introduced for Fall 2009, and as subtle with the use of color.
There were muted tweeds and plaids, and soft shades of beige, coral and pink blended into ensembles that were structured but feminine. Ruffles were used to add volume to texture and volume to jackets while skirts were kept minimal (with regard to shape and fit). In describing the jackets to someone I tried to get them to picture taking the classic Chanel jacket, cropping the sleeve at the elbow and encrusting it with soft organza or chiffon ruffles.
If there were misses for me it was in the dresses, which were a little to "Bo Peep" for me and some of the outerwear that while inspired, wasn't paired to my liking. There was also a black suit with a head-scarf that to me was a bit of 'nuns gone wrong'. I would definitely lose the scarf and maybe ditch the classic Lagerfeld glove look before taking this one on a spin around the block.
It is a very large collection (72 looks going down the runway) which meant that there was something for everyone. There were some great white shirts, a couple of wonderful skirts and of course, the classic Chanel jacket made relevant for today. The contrasting textures made for interesting looks though I must say that for me, some of the pairings of lace with heavy tweed and boucles seemed a bit off balance.
But, as it has been stated many times in this blog, my individual taste is not the issue. It was by all counts an inspired collection. Karl Lagerfeld is one of the most prolific designers in the industry producing content for not only his own label and Chanel but also for Fendi. To put 72 looks on the runway for Chanel alone is amazing.
Okay, I know he has help but ultimately he is the one who decides what the collection looks like and how it is themed. Tying Spring 2010 to Fall 2009 was brilliant in many ways. Even the selection of fabrics and colors (considering the weight and textures) was brilliant. If you happen to have purchased a pair of Chanel pants or a Chanel skirt from the Fall collection, you will have no problem pulling up a jacket from Spring to pair with it to give it a lighter, more jaunty feel.
Clearly Jean Paul Gaultier was in the mood for tennis. However, some of the outfits would be outlawed at Wimbledon due to the very un-British use of 'color'. I loved it. I know that I touched briefly on the collection in a previous post but I really needed to come back and do this collection justice.
Mr. Gaultier took you from playing on the court to the stands to lunch at the club with the gang to that elegant dinner at that great restaurant overlooking the Seine with this collection. There were only a couple of pieces that I honestly would not want in my closet. As for the rest of the collection, simply dust of the checkbook, check card, credit card or whatever you are using these days and add just one piece. I promise you it will be in your closet for years. Even if you pull this piece out 15 years from now it will be current, fashionable, 'trendy' and guaranteed to generate that age old question "where did you find that?"
I am convinced that Mr. Gaultier is the President of La Chambre Syndicale because he gets it! He understands the difference between the me who would go to Hermes to purchase a garment as opposed to the me who would go to the Gaultier Boutique to purchase a garment. He manages to understand that fashion must run the gamut and appeal to a wide range of women from may different walks of life.
No he did not ignore the trend of the sheer garment. He simply made the sheer garment wearable by many. He also made sure that if was purchased from Hermes, that sheer garment could be worn and would be relevant for many seasons to come. And if you go to the site and look at the show, his models are more like real women with curves and some meat on their bones.
No they are not a size 12 or 14 but it is hard to imagine that any of these ladies could comfortably fit into a size 0. They have shape and their legs do not look like the arms of an eight-year-old. But you know what; this is not a surprise to me. This is also the man who put a 51 year old model on the runway because he needed a look and a feel that he knew he could not get from a 17 year-old 'gamine'. He needed a real woman and he boldly put her on the runway. She brought the house down with applause and now Mr. Gaultier is using that same 'look' to sell Hermes. Brilliant.
Okay, now that I have drawn the contrast I might as well review Gaultier's own label. The trends are clear. Sheer, lingerie as outer garments, great coats and beige tones as the base of the tapestry. Gaultier knows exactly who he caters to for each collection. The proliferation of denim, tattered legs, conical bras and hose was the clear appeal to the current pop stars who are always at the shows and ready to shop. I must say that of everything that went down the runways, he nailed them.
While in the Hermes collection he used some bold and primary colors, in his collection he used oranges and other vibrant colors to draw you in and keep you hooked. For me a great deal of the collection is not age appropriate. However, there are some outer garments that I would grab in a heartbeat. There is a camel colored classic trench that I would be more than willing to pay the asking price to own. There were also a couple of very soft untailored and almost deconstructed coats that have that great throw on and go appeal.
Rest assured that the look of the more voluptuous model is not a fleeting theme for Gaultier. He has continued the theme in his own collection, where it was introduced for Spring 2009. Women world-wide are thanking him because there is no longer that doubt that designers know we can't all be a size 0 or 2. Mr. Gaultier may have put some rags on the runway and accentuated that tattered look but trust me, there was not a 'bone' in the bunch.
I am really excited about the arrival of Kirsten because maybe she can walk us through the process of loading some photos to the blog so we can begin to show you what we are describing in our writing. It will eliminate the need for you to log on to the different shows to see what we are talking about. In the meantime, go to the site and have a look. You will be amazed, and I defy you to keep that desire to buy at bay. Both of Mr. Gaultier's contributions for Spring 2010 are great.
Okay, that is only three collections and they are all from the Paris shows. But, that is enough for today. Tomorrow, three more. If there is a particular collection you would like our take on, I am happy to do that. Maybe since I made a small joke of them, we can get Janice to do an in depth on 'Rag & Bone'. They show in NYC so that is her territory. However, Kirsten and I have not been barred from reporting on the New York shows. We'll see what happens. Between the three of us, we will somehow get that in depth onto the posts of the blog.
a la prochaine
Debra
Wednesday, November 4, 2009
Introductions are in Order
Hey Everyone,
I am still taking a bit of a breather on the review of the runway shows for Spring 2010. This is just a short, but very important, post to introduce our newest member. We are all very excited to have her on board and we are certain that all of you will be happy to benefit from her input.
I had the good fortune to speak to a class of journalism students at the University of Washington. During that discussion I met a young woman, Kirsten Soelling. She is bright, energetic, enthusiastic and has graciously agreed to become one of the posters for The Designer's Story. Our intent in recruiting Kirsten is multi-faceted.
First, we need the opinion of someone who is under 30 as we opine on fashion and the collections that are making it down the runways of the world. Second, I was impressed by her knowledge of fashion and some of the questions she asked about the fate of the industry, in print form, as the world of journalism morphs from hard to electronic copy. Third, unlike Janice and me, she is actually a trained journalist and may be able to add some editorial style and comment that is currently lacking. And finally, but maybe most importantly, Kirsten is not technologically challenged.
We are looking forward to having her jazz up the blog page and add a dimension that is currently missing. She actually knows how to post pictures and videos, understands the importance of layout and graphics, and it wouldn't take her 3 hours to try and figure out how to move the photo from the left to the right side of the page. (I have no problem admitting that I have weaknesses when it comes to technology. My mobile phone is now upgraded beyond my technological skills).
So, we aren't sure when the first post is coming but I am confident that Kirsten will give you something to think about. Like us, she is open to hearing about topics you would like covered. As we have written many times, we would love to make this blog as relevant as possible and that means we address your concerns, questions, thoughts and even disagreements with our opinions.
So, if sometime in the not too distant future there is a post from Kirsten where she blasts me and Janice because we are of an age where we missed the symbolism of a designer's collection, or don't really understand the reason younger fashionistas are interested in this label or that silhouette, don't be shocked. Janice and I are all grown up and we can take it. A young, intelligent and straight shooting colleague is just what we need to keep us honest.
Kirsten has no restrictions on when to post. To prove that we have given her the keys to the kingdom. She has as much access and do Janice and I. We now simply need you to welcome her and make sure that she feels at home.
Welcome aboard, Kirsten. Knock 'em dead.
a la prochaine
Debra
I am still taking a bit of a breather on the review of the runway shows for Spring 2010. This is just a short, but very important, post to introduce our newest member. We are all very excited to have her on board and we are certain that all of you will be happy to benefit from her input.
I had the good fortune to speak to a class of journalism students at the University of Washington. During that discussion I met a young woman, Kirsten Soelling. She is bright, energetic, enthusiastic and has graciously agreed to become one of the posters for The Designer's Story. Our intent in recruiting Kirsten is multi-faceted.
First, we need the opinion of someone who is under 30 as we opine on fashion and the collections that are making it down the runways of the world. Second, I was impressed by her knowledge of fashion and some of the questions she asked about the fate of the industry, in print form, as the world of journalism morphs from hard to electronic copy. Third, unlike Janice and me, she is actually a trained journalist and may be able to add some editorial style and comment that is currently lacking. And finally, but maybe most importantly, Kirsten is not technologically challenged.
We are looking forward to having her jazz up the blog page and add a dimension that is currently missing. She actually knows how to post pictures and videos, understands the importance of layout and graphics, and it wouldn't take her 3 hours to try and figure out how to move the photo from the left to the right side of the page. (I have no problem admitting that I have weaknesses when it comes to technology. My mobile phone is now upgraded beyond my technological skills).
So, we aren't sure when the first post is coming but I am confident that Kirsten will give you something to think about. Like us, she is open to hearing about topics you would like covered. As we have written many times, we would love to make this blog as relevant as possible and that means we address your concerns, questions, thoughts and even disagreements with our opinions.
So, if sometime in the not too distant future there is a post from Kirsten where she blasts me and Janice because we are of an age where we missed the symbolism of a designer's collection, or don't really understand the reason younger fashionistas are interested in this label or that silhouette, don't be shocked. Janice and I are all grown up and we can take it. A young, intelligent and straight shooting colleague is just what we need to keep us honest.
Kirsten has no restrictions on when to post. To prove that we have given her the keys to the kingdom. She has as much access and do Janice and I. We now simply need you to welcome her and make sure that she feels at home.
Welcome aboard, Kirsten. Knock 'em dead.
a la prochaine
Debra
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)
