Friday, July 24, 2009
NO MORE WIRE HANGERS !!!!!!
I thought this title would capture every one's attention....This new post actually does meet the challenge of those nostalgic moments with that one long lost item that has been forced to live in the rear of the closet ,permanently creased on that 'wire hanger ' . Why do you think that your
favorite sales persona is a magician and can find that great matching piece to correct that fleeting
moment ,you had to have it !!!!!!! More than likely that great sales consultant offered to match the item with a great top/bottom ,which was in style @ the time along with the color of the season .Perhaps you fell into the major traps of shopping ..1) I 'll find something later to match...
2) I have only enough money for this one piece .3) I saw it in the latest fashion magazine and
it is the TREND ...again I say TREND of the season .4) You listened to a friend who didn't even
bring her fashion savvy or wallet ......................................................................................................
Years later .........................out of the now defunct garment bag arises the wire hanger with an
aged old garment and pouf !!!!!label me Swami !!!!! Give me a break ...the actual thought that
is in my head and trying not to depart from lips , donate it !Why did you wait so long ???
Then comes the challenge to bring you out of the past and calmly say, What was shown with it
when you purchased the item ????Checkmate !!!! So just to return to our rules of shopping ...
Will it work with 3-4 pieces that is already in my closet ? How many times will I wear it in the next 6 months?..etc.etc. Wise shoppers unite and give your purchases some thought . In fact
have your sales persona hold it for 24 hr and remember to call with with your decision .
Oh , yes wire hangers are still available but why not treat yourself and go to Closet Hanger Factory.com and create for yourself a beautiful wardrobe .
A demain ..
Janice
Wednesday, July 15, 2009
The Launch Pad !!!!!!!!
Tuesday, July 14, 2009
Hose or No Hose
Of course there are exceptions. If you are wearing a sundress, shorts, capri pants, or any type of pants then you can get away with foregoing the hose. But, if you are not wearing sandals, you really should at least wear peds or trouser socks. They will protect the lining of your shoes and make them wear longer.
I am a proponent of pantyhose (or hose in general) as they really can become a fashion statement. They are no more uncomfortable than leggings. which happen to be footless pantyhose made out of an opaque fabric. I hear young women talking about how constricting they are. Well buy the correct size and don't get control tops unless there is a reason. And if you want to talk constricting, I grew up in an era where girdles were a required undergarment. I think that is why I love Spanx!
Let's face it ladies. We all want that smooth nothing is moving under my outfit look. The way to get that look from the waist down is with pantyhose. They pull it all in and hold it all together. If you need more control in your midriff then a long line bra, bustiers or high-rise Spanx are the answer. If you are looking for more definition in your waist and don't have the months of work at the gym it would require (because you are wearing the dress tomorrow) then get a waist cincher.
"Wait a minute" you are now saying "I thought we were talking about pantyhose". We are. We are talking about them in a category that you generally don't put them in. Foundation garments generally don't include pantyhose. However when you get to 'support hose', 'light control', 'control top', 'girdle top' honey that is the base of a foundation garment.
Foundation garments are designed to give that dress, blouse, skirt or pants the right fit and drape on the body. The wrong bra with the wrong blouse is a sure fire recipe for disaster. And again, the failure to wear pantyhose (or at least Spanx) can have you walking down the street with a very unattractive 'rear view'. Jiggling is not attractive and if the dress is somewhat formfitting, it can approximate the look of two piglets (or puppies) fighting under a blanket. What an image to leave with the people behind you.
As for the pure discussion on pantyhose, yes or no, the answer is yes. Please finish your look. Please save your shoes. Please look pulled in and polished. That said, I would ask that you not commit any hose felonies. No black hose in the summer unless they are ultrasheers and are working with that little black dress. No over-the-top fishnets or patterns for daytime wear (it just looks like you didn't get home from the club in time to change everything before you had to go to work). If you live in a cooler climate you can wear tights that are opaque but if you are in the tropics, I'd leave those until late fall.
Sorry Mrs. Obama. I would like to see you in hose. I am old school. I think it is a much more polished and finished look. Also, those $900 Louboutin's in my closet will never feel my bare foot in them (nor will my $695 Kookai boots). No worries both were on sale. Seventy percent off of the Louboutin's and 50 percent off of the boots. Both at Le Bon Marche and both declared on my custom's forms.
a la prochaine
Debra
Friday, July 10, 2009
Down But Not Out
If you are so inclined to go and shop do me a favor. Inventory your closet. Then get a journal and in the middle of the first page I want you to write in big bold letters
Wardrobe Diary
Now you are going to get a pen (or pencil) and you are going to write the following on the next page, again in bold
Career
then skip ten pages. On the next page you are going to write
Casual
again, skip ten pages and on the next page you are going to write
Evening (after 5/cocktail)
again skip ten pages and on the next page you are going to write
Special Occasion
For each category you are going to set up the following:
Dresses
Skirts
Pants
Jackets
Vests
Sweaters
Blouses/Shirts
Underpinnings (tanks/tees/halters)
shoes
bags
scarves
bracelets
necklaces
rings
other accessories
AND YES, you are going to write down every single thing that is in that closet and in those drawers. Men, you can do this also. Your closet is not exempt from order and categorization.
When you write this down do not simply pen black skirt. Describe the skirt. Here is an example of an entry:
Hollywood waist, brown/black/grey glen plaid, PAUW Amsterdam bubble skirt
Classic shirt with front button plackets, shirt-tail hem, dark taupe (brownish-grey undertones) Valette
Pleated front trouser with front fly, belt loops, dark camel (amber undertones) wool flannel, cuffed Elie Tahari.
These entries really describe the garment. This allows the person who is helping you with your selections to know if there is anything that truly pop against that piece you already have. If you are really trying to get a jacket or blouse to go with a skirt or a pair of pants take them with you. We went through this before. Navy is not navy and black is not black.
If you are not good at describing colors then get a friend to help you. I am sure that each and everyone of you has a friend with a great eye for color. My friends use me for that all the time. It is not unusual for someone to ask me about a red. I love red and I do wear it a lot. The question is usually "is this a good red?" What they really want to know is whether it is a blue red. which puts in toward the purple side of red, is it a pure red reminiscent of Valentino red, or does it have yellow undertones which make it more toward the orange side of red.
Imagine going to Janice to buy a jacket and telling her "I have this blue dress and I need a jacket." If I were Janice I would say "how nice for you" (that is why I am not in retail). Remember I am the daughter of a dressmaker.
Blue is a range of colors from cloud (white with such a faint hint of blue you aren't sure it is really there) to midnight (where there is so much anil in it you can't really tell it isn't black). So if you came to me and said "help me find a jacket for my delft blue dress" I know exactly what color that is and what to pair with it. Or, I have this great magenta wool jersey dress I need a great jacket to make it pop.
Don't go to black, that is much to easy for each of those colors. It is safe but makes no statement. For the delft blue dress I would opt for a color that would warm it up and make it a bit edgy; medium lime green or a deep citrine would do the trick. Or to lighten it I would go with a robins egg or sky blue. Ideally you'd have the dress and that would make it really easy.
For the magenta, again it will depend on whether you want to be seen or want to be understated. Understated calls for navy, not black. A very dark navy but navy nonetheless. To pop it hot pink, red (a blue red) eggplant.
Anyway all of this is to say before you go and hit the sales, know your closet. Know what you need, what works, what will be classic and that it is a piece that you can pull out 10 years from now, put it on and feel totally stylish. These times call for investment dressing. A piece here, a piece there.
Remember we are not filling a closet we are building a wardrobe.
a la prochaine
Debra
P.S. If you print this out you have the template for your wardrobe diary. I haven't tried but you may be able to save it as a word document and then do a cut and paste and voila, you're done. N'est pas que bon ?
If you want to see it all in French here it is. Only you have to remember not only do I speak French with and American accent, I also write in French with that accent so my apologies to all of you native speakers.
Si vous imprimez ce que vous avez sur le modèle de votre agenda garde-robe. Je n'ai pas essayé mais vous mai être en mesure de l'enregistrer comme un document Word et puis de faire un copier-coller et voila, vous avez terminé. N'est pas que bon ?
Tuesday, July 7, 2009
SMILE !!! A Great Fit !!!!
Friday, July 3, 2009
The Pressure is On
That said, I want to spend a moment talking about beauty and what it is and is not. I believe that everyone on the planet has something about them that is beautiful. Beauty is truly in the eye of the beholder. Example, I know people who love Kandinsky. I personally would not spend the money. I love the d'Orsay and could leave the Louvre for special exhibits only. Someone else may say I'm crazy and the Louvre is the only museum worth the visit.
The same is true of people, fashion, etc. When I was growing up in the United States the standard of beauty was blond, blue eyes, thin, legs for days and a bit of pedigree. I was short with dark cafe au lait skin, chunky with dark hair. I did not see dolls that looked like me. I did not see models that looked anything like me. I didn't see me on television. I was non-existent in terms of media presence and therefore developed a feeling of being invisible.
Then a television show entitled Julia was picked up by a major network. Now all of a sudden you saw a black woman on television who was not featured in a PBS special on Africa. There were other blacks that appeared on television and for the most part they were in sitcoms and the entire cast was black. Dramatic series were not as successful for some reason.
Then when I was 29 (I am dating myself here) Vanessa Williams was crowned Miss America. Now a little black girl in this country could really aspire to become Miss America. Yes there was the scandal but guess what. Even when Ms. Williams had to give up her crown, the woman waiting in the wings was Suzette Charles, also a black woman. So there was still a social victory for black women in the United States. They may have been the first but they were not the last.
Unfortunately, I did hear comments such as, "they should have their own pageant and leave Miss America to American girls." I am an American girl. I just don't have blond hair and blue eyes. I am saying this for one purpose only. Even though the print and broadcast media ignored me because I did not fit the standard of beauty they wanted to promote, everyone in my community saw me as having value and being beautiful. Now that I have had time to grow into me, I think so too.
It isn't about being drop-dead gorgeous or fit for the runway. It is rare that those runway girls are drop-dead gorgeous before hairdressers, makeup artists and costumers get to them. They can really be a sight walking in to get ready for a show.
Beauty comes in all sizes, colors and shapes. Here is what makes someone beautiful to me. They greet you with a smile. They will stop and say hi to a small child. They will help an elderly or disabled person with a mundane chore. They understand that it isn't only about them. They really love being alive. They approach life with purpose, a sense of adventure and a healthy dose of reality.
Beautiful clothes are wonderful. But, you can put the most beautiful outfit together, dress your self up and go out and slay dragons with harsh words and ugly death stares. If the clothes are used to encase something that vile they will lose the beauty quickly. It will be "OMG did you see the dragon lady?"
So from the fairest of skin with platinum blond hair and freckles to the darkest almost blue-black skin with dark course hair and tribal dress there is an exotic beauty in every single person. From a size 0 to a size 28 or whatever there is beauty. It is in their eyes, their smile, their demeanor or their bearing. I encourage you to look for the beauty in everyone.
Do this the next time you go out or see a friend. Really look at them. Find the beauty in the people around you. Think about being the one who spreads the word. Beauty is everywhere. It starts with you. Act beautiful and you'll be surprised how much beauty is all around you.
Okay, I will look at some Kandinsky's and find the beauty in them also. I will go to the Louvre on my next trip to Paris and hang out in the Grand Hall with the great masters. I will find the beauty in the Mona Lisa, the Madonna of the Rocks and Winged Victory. Then I will go to the d'Orsay and gawk as a couple of Dali's.
a la prochaine
Wednesday, July 1, 2009
Lazy Month
You never know where you may find what you need. Each morning in the hotel we were greeted by the extremely pleasant staff and one woman has a sister-in-law who just graduated from FIT. Well I jumped on that because we need a fashion illustrator for our project. Once I made that contact fashion illustrators started falling out of the sky.
We are working on adding the newest member of our team. He is a wonderful artist who is going to add so much to the entire project. We also have had a lot of progress with identifying photographers, moving through some really difficult issues and mocking up game boards to test runway configurations. It is moving very quickly.
We have a great team. In addition to Janice, Kenny and me we have:
- Christine Dougherty who is a great artist and has an impressive background as a costume designer;
- We are seriously courting Christopher Jernberg, who is a great artist, originally from Sweden, also with impressive credentials and a huge body of work;
- Cheryl Pegues who is a graduate of La Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, has done costume design in Paris and has a great body of work to her credit also; and
- We are courting an image consultant who as asked to remain anonymous for the moment.
As we roll out the project and its various facets, you will get a sense of what we are trying to do and how incredibly excited we are to be part of such a great project.
That said, Men's fashion week just ended in Paris. I haven't really followed it but now that it is July it means Haute Couture is coming to Paris as we speak. This is the month that it is all about luxury and lovely fashion. My big question is who is going to be present and who is not.
The industry is really in turmoil due to the economy. Christian Lacroix has filed bankruptcy in an attempt to reorganize and survive the downturn. I am betting that he will be able to pull it off. It would be a sad commentary to lose this design house and label. I am hoping that no one else is in big trouble. We need these guys to stick around. They are the artists of the day.
It is a month that I do not normally spend in Paris as the weather is not to my liking and it is too close to the start of the fall fashion season. But this year, we will watch from a distance. We are too close to the launch to take the 10 week journey.
Okay you came for fashion and that is what the last part of this post will address. First, I was horrified by most of the collections for Resort 2009/10. Resort, as Janice will confirm is a tough season. It is swimsuits, flimsy tops and cropped pants at a time when the wind is howling, snow is blowing around (if you live in the right part of the world) and you are really focused on the winter holidays.
I personally do not own a single piece from a resort season now that I think about it. Living in San Francisco, my wardrobe is pretty much sans season. It is never warm enough, for an extended period of time, for me to invest in a lot of 'summer' clothes. My clothes take me through the entire year.
That is a major consideration for all who are building a wardrobe. Do you need seasonal clothes or can you get away with a one-weight works all year? If you need seasonal clothing remember that other than a thick warm sweater, tops are, or should be non-seasonal. That silk blouse can be worn at any time of the year. Likewise that classic white shirt can be worn any time.
Even that pastel colored top can be worn in the dead of winter with the right pants and the right jacket. It can be used to lighten the outfit. Black, ink, charcoal, chocolate brown are great but you need to add a bit of color and lightness. And speaking of white shirts, if yours is more than 18 to 24 months old, ditch it.
Janice and I were talking to a couple of friends the other night about that. All white shirts (and tee shirts) will yellow with age. It is just how it works. If it is a shirt you love and it is not worn out, take it to a great laundry and have it professionally dyed to a great color. It's like the shoes and the great cobbler who can renew and repair those great pumps.
Okay here is the last item. Balenciaga has these really great black and white roman sandals that go all the way to the knee. They are from two seasons ago and I want them. Okay, I violated my cardinal rule. If you really want an item watch it until it gets to your price range or until it is the last one in your size and make the decision to go or not go for it. I should have gone for them and now I will be forever reduced to looking at them as a photograph in a magazine.
However, no tears. There will be other great sandals out there to snap up.
a la prochaine!!
Debra
