To Like or Not to Like

Well as Janice wrote a few days ago, and I reiterated, spring is on the way. The clothes will be arriving soon. I have spent some time over the last couple of days reviewing the runway shows and reviews. I was struck by the review of the Ferragamo collection for the coming season. Style.com gave a blistering review of the collection. Christina Ortiz, Artistic Director, was said to have missed the mark in terms of developing a new look and identity for the design house. The same reviewer wrote a review of Martin Grants collection. The outcome was quite different. Martin Grant received accolades for his collection.



The other collection I reviewed was that of Graeme Black, a Scottish designer who was formerly with Ferragamo. His collection also received accolades. Those accolades were not only for the designs but also for the setting of the show. All in all, it was magnificent. My point is that from where I sit, Christina Ortiz was unjustly maligned.



While it was a different fashion journalist who wrote the review of Graeme Black's collection, I would have loved to hear his assessment of the Ferragamo collection. The reviewer of the Ferragamo collection was not happy with the lines, the proportions or the seeming bulk of the garments around the hips and waist. She was upset with the use of hardware as closures and the seeming trickiness of the designs.



I have spent a lot of time watching American buyers and journalists and eavesdropping on their conversations about various collections. It seems that the like or dislike of a collection has less to do with the true genius of the collection and more to do with whether or not they would wear a particular piece or designer. I think that is unfair to both the designer and American women who are now having their purchasing options censored by people who cannot imagine the piece on the runway, toned down for production so you can take on a spin around the block in your hometown.



I will admit that in order to go into production to take on a spin around town many of the Ferragamo pieces need closures attached. If you have an eye for the intent of the design, instead of taking it literally and making a determination that it is that or nothing, you can see the garment in the stores and on the streets of most any major metropolitan area.



If you look at Graeme Black's collection it is very flowing and there is a lot of fabric in some of the pieces. I can imagine that some independent thinking fashionista would cinch one of those pieces with a wide, low slung belt. That would actually make the fabric in the piece bunch where ever the belt was applied. Even Martin Grant has a couple of pieces that have a great deal of fabric around the hip with pleating and rusching (gathering). That causes fabric to bunch and add bulk.



I loved the wide-leg pants and the drape of the fabrics in the Ferragamo collection. I could have found many things to praise about the effort of Christina Ortiz. I would love to know if Graeme Black thinks she did such a bad job. I am guessing he would say it was a good effort and that there were pieces that were fabulous.



We need to provide encouragement to the women who become the artistic directors of major design houses. They are few and far between. One thing that may emerge as a result of their tenure is a true return to clothing for real women. How wonderful to be dressed by someone who is willing and able to wear their own designs. That is what I love about Donna Karan and Alessandra Facchianetti (Valentino). They wear their designs.



Don't get me wrong. Not all female artistic directors hit the mark and not all male designers miss the mark. That is not what I am saying. Clearly, Yves Saint Laurent, Oscar de la Renta, Valentino Garavani, Giorgio Armani, etc. all dress or dressed women well. They understood women. Some of the designers out there seem be be trying to figure out what women would or should wear.



I'll give you more on my take on some of the designers in a different post. This post is to say that the Ferragamo collection for Spring 2009 (RTW) is not as bad as style.com said it was. As a matter of fact if you have the right body type, don't mind turning heads and have enough confidence, it is a fabulous collection.



If I were taller, I would love to purchase a few pairs of the wide-legged, high waisted trousers. and some of the tops are divine. Sure they need some type of closure but remember, I am the daughter of a dressmaker. I can already envision the closures. Would I use buttons? On a couple of the pieces, yes. But there are others where I would look for other findings to add some modesty to the piece. A great brooch would do on a couple and there is one where I would look for jeweled d-rings. Yes, that's right; the very hardware that was dissed in the review. It wasn't bad. It just wasn't to the taste of the American reviewers and buyers.



So ladies when you look at fashions at a runway show, ask yourself this question. "If I were going to purchase this piece what would I do in order to tone it down a bit and take it on a spin around the block?" I guarantee you it will change the way you look at fashion.