With the fashion week winding down I am in the midst of deciphering the perfect investment pieces of the Donna Karan runway 2009. With the luxury market being shaped by the economy ,for some.but not for all !!!!!!!!! I am currently fine tuning the perfect pieces for those
who adore Donna Karan. But alas,I did need a break and did my final assessment of the red carpet fashions .I believe everyone was playing it a little safe .Because I receive calls and
visits with people with their magazine cutouts wanting that gown that was perfect for the
person in it ...Let me just say...Stop cloning yourself and take time to assess the perfect shade,
fabrics , necklines ,do some research with your own body type..so someone like myself will not
have to go in a tizzy trying to fulfill your Cinderella moment in less than 24hrs and dissapointment sets in while you are found still clutching the faded magazine picture .
One great reflective website to cruise through ..before it is removed...style.com...'Oscar
After Hour Party Hopping...!!!!Remember the old Glamour feature...Glamour Do's and Dont's
Well you will definitely identify ............Shipment for Spring items are almost complete............
Time to invest for that perfect dress for the upcoming wedding,graduation, etc
A demain !
Janice
Wednesday, February 25, 2009
Tuesday, February 24, 2009
To Like or Not to Like
Well as Janice wrote a few days ago, and I reiterated, spring is on the way. The clothes will be arriving soon. I have spent some time over the last couple of days reviewing the runway shows and reviews. I was struck by the review of the Ferragamo collection for the coming season. Style.com gave a blistering review of the collection. Christina Ortiz, Artistic Director, was said to have missed the mark in terms of developing a new look and identity for the design house. The same reviewer wrote a review of Martin Grants collection. The outcome was quite different. Martin Grant received accolades for his collection.
The other collection I reviewed was that of Graeme Black, a Scottish designer who was formerly with Ferragamo. His collection also received accolades. Those accolades were not only for the designs but also for the setting of the show. All in all, it was magnificent. My point is that from where I sit, Christina Ortiz was unjustly maligned.
While it was a different fashion journalist who wrote the review of Graeme Black's collection, I would have loved to hear his assessment of the Ferragamo collection. The reviewer of the Ferragamo collection was not happy with the lines, the proportions or the seeming bulk of the garments around the hips and waist. She was upset with the use of hardware as closures and the seeming trickiness of the designs.
I have spent a lot of time watching American buyers and journalists and eavesdropping on their conversations about various collections. It seems that the like or dislike of a collection has less to do with the true genius of the collection and more to do with whether or not they would wear a particular piece or designer. I think that is unfair to both the designer and American women who are now having their purchasing options censored by people who cannot imagine the piece on the runway, toned down for production so you can take on a spin around the block in your hometown.
I will admit that in order to go into production to take on a spin around town many of the Ferragamo pieces need closures attached. If you have an eye for the intent of the design, instead of taking it literally and making a determination that it is that or nothing, you can see the garment in the stores and on the streets of most any major metropolitan area.
If you look at Graeme Black's collection it is very flowing and there is a lot of fabric in some of the pieces. I can imagine that some independent thinking fashionista would cinch one of those pieces with a wide, low slung belt. That would actually make the fabric in the piece bunch where ever the belt was applied. Even Martin Grant has a couple of pieces that have a great deal of fabric around the hip with pleating and rusching (gathering). That causes fabric to bunch and add bulk.
I loved the wide-leg pants and the drape of the fabrics in the Ferragamo collection. I could have found many things to praise about the effort of Christina Ortiz. I would love to know if Graeme Black thinks she did such a bad job. I am guessing he would say it was a good effort and that there were pieces that were fabulous.
We need to provide encouragement to the women who become the artistic directors of major design houses. They are few and far between. One thing that may emerge as a result of their tenure is a true return to clothing for real women. How wonderful to be dressed by someone who is willing and able to wear their own designs. That is what I love about Donna Karan and Alessandra Facchianetti (Valentino). They wear their designs.
Don't get me wrong. Not all female artistic directors hit the mark and not all male designers miss the mark. That is not what I am saying. Clearly, Yves Saint Laurent, Oscar de la Renta, Valentino Garavani, Giorgio Armani, etc. all dress or dressed women well. They understood women. Some of the designers out there seem be be trying to figure out what women would or should wear.
I'll give you more on my take on some of the designers in a different post. This post is to say that the Ferragamo collection for Spring 2009 (RTW) is not as bad as style.com said it was. As a matter of fact if you have the right body type, don't mind turning heads and have enough confidence, it is a fabulous collection.
If I were taller, I would love to purchase a few pairs of the wide-legged, high waisted trousers. and some of the tops are divine. Sure they need some type of closure but remember, I am the daughter of a dressmaker. I can already envision the closures. Would I use buttons? On a couple of the pieces, yes. But there are others where I would look for other findings to add some modesty to the piece. A great brooch would do on a couple and there is one where I would look for jeweled d-rings. Yes, that's right; the very hardware that was dissed in the review. It wasn't bad. It just wasn't to the taste of the American reviewers and buyers.
So ladies when you look at fashions at a runway show, ask yourself this question. "If I were going to purchase this piece what would I do in order to tone it down a bit and take it on a spin around the block?" I guarantee you it will change the way you look at fashion.
The other collection I reviewed was that of Graeme Black, a Scottish designer who was formerly with Ferragamo. His collection also received accolades. Those accolades were not only for the designs but also for the setting of the show. All in all, it was magnificent. My point is that from where I sit, Christina Ortiz was unjustly maligned.
While it was a different fashion journalist who wrote the review of Graeme Black's collection, I would have loved to hear his assessment of the Ferragamo collection. The reviewer of the Ferragamo collection was not happy with the lines, the proportions or the seeming bulk of the garments around the hips and waist. She was upset with the use of hardware as closures and the seeming trickiness of the designs.
I have spent a lot of time watching American buyers and journalists and eavesdropping on their conversations about various collections. It seems that the like or dislike of a collection has less to do with the true genius of the collection and more to do with whether or not they would wear a particular piece or designer. I think that is unfair to both the designer and American women who are now having their purchasing options censored by people who cannot imagine the piece on the runway, toned down for production so you can take on a spin around the block in your hometown.
I will admit that in order to go into production to take on a spin around town many of the Ferragamo pieces need closures attached. If you have an eye for the intent of the design, instead of taking it literally and making a determination that it is that or nothing, you can see the garment in the stores and on the streets of most any major metropolitan area.
If you look at Graeme Black's collection it is very flowing and there is a lot of fabric in some of the pieces. I can imagine that some independent thinking fashionista would cinch one of those pieces with a wide, low slung belt. That would actually make the fabric in the piece bunch where ever the belt was applied. Even Martin Grant has a couple of pieces that have a great deal of fabric around the hip with pleating and rusching (gathering). That causes fabric to bunch and add bulk.
I loved the wide-leg pants and the drape of the fabrics in the Ferragamo collection. I could have found many things to praise about the effort of Christina Ortiz. I would love to know if Graeme Black thinks she did such a bad job. I am guessing he would say it was a good effort and that there were pieces that were fabulous.
We need to provide encouragement to the women who become the artistic directors of major design houses. They are few and far between. One thing that may emerge as a result of their tenure is a true return to clothing for real women. How wonderful to be dressed by someone who is willing and able to wear their own designs. That is what I love about Donna Karan and Alessandra Facchianetti (Valentino). They wear their designs.
Don't get me wrong. Not all female artistic directors hit the mark and not all male designers miss the mark. That is not what I am saying. Clearly, Yves Saint Laurent, Oscar de la Renta, Valentino Garavani, Giorgio Armani, etc. all dress or dressed women well. They understood women. Some of the designers out there seem be be trying to figure out what women would or should wear.
I'll give you more on my take on some of the designers in a different post. This post is to say that the Ferragamo collection for Spring 2009 (RTW) is not as bad as style.com said it was. As a matter of fact if you have the right body type, don't mind turning heads and have enough confidence, it is a fabulous collection.
If I were taller, I would love to purchase a few pairs of the wide-legged, high waisted trousers. and some of the tops are divine. Sure they need some type of closure but remember, I am the daughter of a dressmaker. I can already envision the closures. Would I use buttons? On a couple of the pieces, yes. But there are others where I would look for other findings to add some modesty to the piece. A great brooch would do on a couple and there is one where I would look for jeweled d-rings. Yes, that's right; the very hardware that was dissed in the review. It wasn't bad. It just wasn't to the taste of the American reviewers and buyers.
So ladies when you look at fashions at a runway show, ask yourself this question. "If I were going to purchase this piece what would I do in order to tone it down a bit and take it on a spin around the block?" I guarantee you it will change the way you look at fashion.
Monday, February 23, 2009
The Honest Assessment
Okay, last night there were some great gowns and there were some not so great gowns. Then there were those gowns that made you think, "Oh no she didn't". Well here is my assessment and Janice can weigh in and all of you readers are free to comment.
I stand by what I said about Sarah Jessica Parker's dress. Not her best moment on the red carpet. Miley Cyrus looked hideous. All I could think of was a Christmas tree with those horrid silver strands that fall on the carpet and you are still trying to vacuum up on Valentine's Day. The fabric for Beyonce's dress was fabulous. I wish the dress had fit her. Ladies if the dress begins to pull and crease across the hip, it is too tight.
The two true disappointments were Whoopie Goldberg and Sophia Loren. OMG!!! A jungle theme for bed sheets is one thing. For a dress on the red carpet, that's a resounding no! And Sophia, the color was wrong, the style was dated not vintage, and the fruffy ruffles. Big hair, big dress, big mistake.
Kate Winslet was stunning. She was very pulled together. I love the dress. I may not have chosen that dress for her but she pulled it off. Anne Hathaway' s dress was incredible. It fit perfectly (clearly she had it fitted and altered). Whatever you think of Angelina Jolie as a person, she was stunning. Her dress was elegantly beautiful and the manner in which she carries herself makes her appear regal. Taraji Henson's dress was also beautiful. There are those who thought she should have worn a different color but I disagree. Her creamy mocha skin was the perfect offset for the vanilla gown.
People have trashed Heidi Klum's dress but it was classic Roland Mouret. Come on he's French and the dress had that decidedly French asymmetrical cut. I would have worn different shoes but she was trying to match. That made it a bit wedding and bridesmaid to me. However, if I were the bride I would not want Heidi Klum showing up in that dress. Who wants to be upstaged?!!
So which was my favorite gown? Definitely Marisa Tomei in that incredible Versace gown. I only wish it had been about 4 inches shorter so it would have hung and draped correctly. However, that is a fabulous dress. Oh to be able to purchase that gown. There is a ballet or symphony or opera opening somewhere that would be the perfect place to take that gown for a spin.
I heard people say that Meryl Streep's gown was awful. Well guess what? It actually grew on me. The more I see her in it the more appeal it has for me. Meryl knows what she is and is not. She is not 30 and doesn't want a dress that does her no justice. It fit well. It bared her shoulders, she looked comfortable and poised and it fit. I think it is the color that people had issues with. I would have solved that by adding a fabulous triple strand diamond choker and a very simple by stunningly beautiful tennis bracelet.
There were more wins: Penelope Cruz in vintage Balmain, Halle looked stunning, and giving credit to the men, Mr. Jackman was yummy. I must say that Tom Ford cuts a great tuxedo. Even though I don't really like Brad Pitt, he looked great in TF. I really wish he was still designing clothing for women. Maybe he will take a page from YSL and do a wonderful tuxedo jacket for women or a killer white evening blouse with a fly away collar and great pleating in the back.
There were also more not quite there and out and out "why's". Mr. Hoffman and his companion were really scary. I would advise anyone I know to never ever leave the house looking like that. Mr. Rourke missed it but you knew he was there. Queen Latifa's dress wasn't her best moment. Nicole Kidman's dress was not a moment at all. Virginia Madsen in Kevan Hall was stunning. How to look vintage even if you aren't. Diane Lane was okay. I would have been better if she had been fitted. That is really important.
Evan Rachel Wood, not bad but again, too long. Elie Saab is a great designer. Too bad the dress was dragging on the floor. So ladies, when you wear a long gown, you need to make sure that the toes of you shoes are visible. Otherwise, you are going to step on it, possibly trip and really lose some of the magic of that gown floating around your feet or billowing behind you as you strut your stuff.
I could go on but it is time for other to weigh in. So Janice, readers, what did you think of my choices? I can take it.
I stand by what I said about Sarah Jessica Parker's dress. Not her best moment on the red carpet. Miley Cyrus looked hideous. All I could think of was a Christmas tree with those horrid silver strands that fall on the carpet and you are still trying to vacuum up on Valentine's Day. The fabric for Beyonce's dress was fabulous. I wish the dress had fit her. Ladies if the dress begins to pull and crease across the hip, it is too tight.
The two true disappointments were Whoopie Goldberg and Sophia Loren. OMG!!! A jungle theme for bed sheets is one thing. For a dress on the red carpet, that's a resounding no! And Sophia, the color was wrong, the style was dated not vintage, and the fruffy ruffles. Big hair, big dress, big mistake.
Kate Winslet was stunning. She was very pulled together. I love the dress. I may not have chosen that dress for her but she pulled it off. Anne Hathaway' s dress was incredible. It fit perfectly (clearly she had it fitted and altered). Whatever you think of Angelina Jolie as a person, she was stunning. Her dress was elegantly beautiful and the manner in which she carries herself makes her appear regal. Taraji Henson's dress was also beautiful. There are those who thought she should have worn a different color but I disagree. Her creamy mocha skin was the perfect offset for the vanilla gown.
People have trashed Heidi Klum's dress but it was classic Roland Mouret. Come on he's French and the dress had that decidedly French asymmetrical cut. I would have worn different shoes but she was trying to match. That made it a bit wedding and bridesmaid to me. However, if I were the bride I would not want Heidi Klum showing up in that dress. Who wants to be upstaged?!!
So which was my favorite gown? Definitely Marisa Tomei in that incredible Versace gown. I only wish it had been about 4 inches shorter so it would have hung and draped correctly. However, that is a fabulous dress. Oh to be able to purchase that gown. There is a ballet or symphony or opera opening somewhere that would be the perfect place to take that gown for a spin.
I heard people say that Meryl Streep's gown was awful. Well guess what? It actually grew on me. The more I see her in it the more appeal it has for me. Meryl knows what she is and is not. She is not 30 and doesn't want a dress that does her no justice. It fit well. It bared her shoulders, she looked comfortable and poised and it fit. I think it is the color that people had issues with. I would have solved that by adding a fabulous triple strand diamond choker and a very simple by stunningly beautiful tennis bracelet.
There were more wins: Penelope Cruz in vintage Balmain, Halle looked stunning, and giving credit to the men, Mr. Jackman was yummy. I must say that Tom Ford cuts a great tuxedo. Even though I don't really like Brad Pitt, he looked great in TF. I really wish he was still designing clothing for women. Maybe he will take a page from YSL and do a wonderful tuxedo jacket for women or a killer white evening blouse with a fly away collar and great pleating in the back.
There were also more not quite there and out and out "why's". Mr. Hoffman and his companion were really scary. I would advise anyone I know to never ever leave the house looking like that. Mr. Rourke missed it but you knew he was there. Queen Latifa's dress wasn't her best moment. Nicole Kidman's dress was not a moment at all. Virginia Madsen in Kevan Hall was stunning. How to look vintage even if you aren't. Diane Lane was okay. I would have been better if she had been fitted. That is really important.
Evan Rachel Wood, not bad but again, too long. Elie Saab is a great designer. Too bad the dress was dragging on the floor. So ladies, when you wear a long gown, you need to make sure that the toes of you shoes are visible. Otherwise, you are going to step on it, possibly trip and really lose some of the magic of that gown floating around your feet or billowing behind you as you strut your stuff.
I could go on but it is time for other to weigh in. So Janice, readers, what did you think of my choices? I can take it.
Classic Hollywood on the Red Carpet
I have been revived !!!!Even though the past years there were the one or two great wow
ensembles...last night's presentations were fab .... Hopefully you notice everyone was a little
more reserve with the jewels in respect to the economy .Kudos...!!! Some
hits and misses..Marisa's Versace gown was fabulous but needed a slightly taller person
to carry it along..Anne Hathaway Armani Prive fit to the tee...Ladies neither shy away from
alterations ,the finest details can make or break it . I agree with Debra on Sarah J. Parker's
presentation ....I believe if the hairstyle was different ...we would not have to click our heels..as much ..The fabric on Beyonce's' gown was exqusite ........Will someone please let Miley Cyrus
know her real age ?? so we can perfect a great designer for her. Is Robin Roberts following
in the footsteps of our great First Lady and leaning towards J.Crew for a 'safe' look even though
she had a stylish and a choice of three gowns . I hope all had a chance to view the lovely
presentations this year . For those who have an upcoming event.........try on styles ,colors.
different fabrications and always have your heels ready to give you that lift to propel you in that
Princess moment !
ensembles...last night's presentations were fab .... Hopefully you notice everyone was a little
more reserve with the jewels in respect to the economy .Kudos...!!! Some
hits and misses..Marisa's Versace gown was fabulous but needed a slightly taller person
to carry it along..Anne Hathaway Armani Prive fit to the tee...Ladies neither shy away from
alterations ,the finest details can make or break it . I agree with Debra on Sarah J. Parker's
presentation ....I believe if the hairstyle was different ...we would not have to click our heels..as much ..The fabric on Beyonce's' gown was exqusite ........Will someone please let Miley Cyrus
know her real age ?? so we can perfect a great designer for her. Is Robin Roberts following
in the footsteps of our great First Lady and leaning towards J.Crew for a 'safe' look even though
she had a stylish and a choice of three gowns . I hope all had a chance to view the lovely
presentations this year . For those who have an upcoming event.........try on styles ,colors.
different fabrications and always have your heels ready to give you that lift to propel you in that
Princess moment !
Sunday, February 22, 2009
Introducing Janice Hall
Well as we ramp up, I am making sure that everyone knows the crew of Seulement Francais. Janice is my right hand. She makes sure that everything is fashion, fashion, fashion. We are going to provide you with fun, education, tips and of course ideas.
If you want to know anything at all about Donna Karan, Janice is the woman to ask. She is an incredible specialist for them and will be the first to tell you that the trick is to establish a basic wardrobe and then add a few signature pieces each year.
We do not subscribe to the new season new wardrobe school. We are more of the mindset of the European women. Great closet with great pieces that are forever. You will see the beauty of that if you have a chance to go to the Yves Saint Laurent exhibition at the De Young Museum of Fine Art in San Francisco.
Unfortunately, San Francisco is the only venue for this exhibit in the United States. I do not know where it is going next. However, if you live in the San Francisco Bay Area or are planning a trip before April 5th, DO NOT MISS THIS EXHIBITION. You will understand that buying a classic piece means having a great piece for ever. Check out the double breasted, black daytime coat. If you still had that in your closet today, you could wear it no question. No one would even guess that it was over 20 years old.
So ladies as Janice would tell you, invest in your clothing. It is a real statement about who you are.
So, welcome Janice and in a few weeks, we will introduce you to the other member of the team.
Salut
If you want to know anything at all about Donna Karan, Janice is the woman to ask. She is an incredible specialist for them and will be the first to tell you that the trick is to establish a basic wardrobe and then add a few signature pieces each year.
We do not subscribe to the new season new wardrobe school. We are more of the mindset of the European women. Great closet with great pieces that are forever. You will see the beauty of that if you have a chance to go to the Yves Saint Laurent exhibition at the De Young Museum of Fine Art in San Francisco.
Unfortunately, San Francisco is the only venue for this exhibit in the United States. I do not know where it is going next. However, if you live in the San Francisco Bay Area or are planning a trip before April 5th, DO NOT MISS THIS EXHIBITION. You will understand that buying a classic piece means having a great piece for ever. Check out the double breasted, black daytime coat. If you still had that in your closet today, you could wear it no question. No one would even guess that it was over 20 years old.
So ladies as Janice would tell you, invest in your clothing. It is a real statement about who you are.
So, welcome Janice and in a few weeks, we will introduce you to the other member of the team.
Salut
Ahhhh the Red Carpet
Janice and I will make sure that we keep you informed as we weather the recession and keep up appearances. We fashionistas need our seasonal fix. As Janice let you know, spring is just around the corner and there are some fabulous clothes that will be hitting the stores.
But today is RED CARPET DAY!!! The color seems to be red and strapless seems to be the call of the day. Of course there was a lot of black and champagne, creams and nice toffee colors. All in all, everyone I saw did a pretty good job pulling it all together. As the show wears on, we sill see.
However, there were a couple of misses. Ms. Parker (Sarah Jessica) looked a bit like Glenda the Good Witch from the Wizard of Oz. Also, I realize that everyone wants to wear a size 2 but if you are a size 4, then get the 4. Fit 101 ladies. Angelina's dress fit properly. The girls were contained even though the dress was strapless and revealing. Take note Sarah Jessica.
The bodice of the dress was fabulous. The belt was stunning. I would have changed the skirt. Something a little softer. More drape would have been good and less girth would have also been great. Okay it was the tutu look that Dior was going for and that is great. However, it was way too much and it just didn't work for me.
Kate Winslett looked stunning in YSL. There were some really elegant (as in simple) gowns that were truly stunning. Amy Adams overdid the necklace. The dress was stunning but overpowered by the necklace. I really want people to understand that less is more. Elegance is everything.
So ladies, tomorrow the hits and misses will be memorialized in photos forever. If by some stroke of fate, you get your turn on the red carpet remember that people like me watch. Make sure you listen to your stylist. Better yet, get a couple of stylists to comment on what you are wearing. If you want send a photo to me or Janice. We can be brutally honest. It is what people pay us for. It isn't about the sale. It is about being trusted. We will tell you. That's just not your dress. Let's try this instead. We have a great eye.
So for now, I am going to sign off, grab a glass of Cabernet and enjoy the show. Janice and I will be in touch soon.
a la prochaine
But today is RED CARPET DAY!!! The color seems to be red and strapless seems to be the call of the day. Of course there was a lot of black and champagne, creams and nice toffee colors. All in all, everyone I saw did a pretty good job pulling it all together. As the show wears on, we sill see.
However, there were a couple of misses. Ms. Parker (Sarah Jessica) looked a bit like Glenda the Good Witch from the Wizard of Oz. Also, I realize that everyone wants to wear a size 2 but if you are a size 4, then get the 4. Fit 101 ladies. Angelina's dress fit properly. The girls were contained even though the dress was strapless and revealing. Take note Sarah Jessica.
The bodice of the dress was fabulous. The belt was stunning. I would have changed the skirt. Something a little softer. More drape would have been good and less girth would have also been great. Okay it was the tutu look that Dior was going for and that is great. However, it was way too much and it just didn't work for me.
Kate Winslett looked stunning in YSL. There were some really elegant (as in simple) gowns that were truly stunning. Amy Adams overdid the necklace. The dress was stunning but overpowered by the necklace. I really want people to understand that less is more. Elegance is everything.
So ladies, tomorrow the hits and misses will be memorialized in photos forever. If by some stroke of fate, you get your turn on the red carpet remember that people like me watch. Make sure you listen to your stylist. Better yet, get a couple of stylists to comment on what you are wearing. If you want send a photo to me or Janice. We can be brutally honest. It is what people pay us for. It isn't about the sale. It is about being trusted. We will tell you. That's just not your dress. Let's try this instead. We have a great eye.
So for now, I am going to sign off, grab a glass of Cabernet and enjoy the show. Janice and I will be in touch soon.
a la prochaine
Saturday, February 21, 2009
That Investment Piece !!!!
Yes ,we all been consumed with the 'r' factor !!!!!!!!!!!!(recession ) for those have just recognized.
But to no avail the real fashionista wants to update some part of their wardrobe ...Spring
is right around the corner .The first area is to take some serious looks at those shoes that still
hurt the living daylights out of your feet .Get a recycled Trader Joes bag and start loading up !!!
I am speaking to myself as I write you.Because of the ongoing rain in the Bay Area ,that we desperately need ..perhaps a garage sale is not the best idea @ the moment.A trend on the rise
is swap parties with a few friends .....light snacks..fun music.....and letting go of pain in the lower
extremies...To really free yourself ,now go home and soak those tired pieds !!
A demain
But to no avail the real fashionista wants to update some part of their wardrobe ...Spring
is right around the corner .The first area is to take some serious looks at those shoes that still
hurt the living daylights out of your feet .Get a recycled Trader Joes bag and start loading up !!!
I am speaking to myself as I write you.Because of the ongoing rain in the Bay Area ,that we desperately need ..perhaps a garage sale is not the best idea @ the moment.A trend on the rise
is swap parties with a few friends .....light snacks..fun music.....and letting go of pain in the lower
extremies...To really free yourself ,now go home and soak those tired pieds !!
A demain
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