Saturday, April 17, 2010

Going on a Rant

Okay, I am about to go on a bit of a rant. We are in NYC at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week. Of course all of the heavy hitters were there and showed a collection. Among them was Michael Kors. Some of you only know him from Project Runway. Some of you only know him for his other label Michael by Michael Kors. The rant is not because of anything he did at Fashion Week. The rant is because of the look of his collection and some of the comments he makes to young designers on Project Runway.

He has often admonished the contestants on Project Runway for not bringing forth an original design. His whole, ‘seen it’, ‘not innovative’, and other comments are now so not appropriate. The Michael Kors collection for Fall 2010 is a revisit of many designers, primarily Donna Karan. Except for the ill fitting trousers, you could probably raid the closet of a couple of well dressed friends, put all of the stuff together and come up with a wardrobe to rival that collection.

As Janice and I looked at the collection we kept saying ‘Donna’, ‘Oscar’, ‘Ralph”, etc. You get the picture. Had I not seen him rail on people on PR, this would not have bothered me. They were new takes on old concepts; but they were certainly not original. There isn’t a designer on the planet who doesn’t get some inspiration from their fellow designers. However, let’s be fair. Don’t admonish others for something you do yourself.

Chris March should laugh because Kors was slightly put off by the use of human hair as trim. And what does Michael Kors do --- he gives you a faux fur skirt. He admonished designers who had too much volume around the hip. Well what about that bubble like faux fur skirt? That certainly isn’t slimming. Saying that no woman wants a big behind is not true. There are cultures where it is considered beautiful to have a butt. As a black woman one of the worst attributes is to have a flat behind. You want that hook. I want that hook!

That said, the colors were great. There are greys and camels that really make you understand that fall has arrived. There are some wonderful chunky knits that are just right for the cold foggy days that greet you in October (or July and August if you live in San Francisco). There are some knits that appear to be blended with lurex to give then some sparkle.

Save for the obviously tailored jackets and coats, everything else is a bit deconstructed. It is softly tailored so as not to seem harsh and stiff. For that I will give him credit. There are a couple of coats I would love but all in all the collection was a sign of the times. Excluding the faux fur skirt (yes that is the third mention as I found it hideous) these are clothes that women will wear and can have in their closet for a long time.

Okay, there are some sheer knit tops that are a bit problematic and there are some deeply vee’d sweaters that are also going to need some underpinnings for the not so model like women to pull it off. The ill fitting pants can be taken care of in alterations. I just don’t like pants that are that baggy in the crotch. A pleated trouser is one thing. These pants are too low on the hip for that type of fit to look attractive.
So I guess all in all, it isn’t a bad collection. It just wasn’t fitting for someone who constantly talks about originality and setting a high bar. He does sports wear well. He is good at his craft. I just wish he was a bit less snide when it comes to dealing with young designers.

a la prochaine

Debra

Thursday, April 15, 2010

In My Opinion

Here is the thing about evaluating fashion. It is purely subjective. If you read the comments posted by Style.com the personality of the three reviewers comes out loud and clear. There is a review of the Costume National collection and in that review there is a statement that Ennio Capasa would be better off showing in Milan as opposed to Paris. However the writer, Hadley Freeman later comments that Paris may be rubbing off on Capasa.

Ennio Capasa is seen as too Italian with skirts that are very short and a bit more edgy and sexy than the Paris scene. That hard edge is just not Parisian enough to put Capasa in the same category as say, Haider Ackermann. Nicole Phelps refers to the Ackermann collection as “serenely gorgeous”. To me Haider Ackermann is incredibly intricate and so much edgier than Costume National it isn’t funny. No one has ever suggested that Ackerman was not chic enough for Paris or that he was too edgy.

Note the extremely sculpted leather vest over the body conscious, dark taupe dress with the asymmetrical hem. No it isn’t Italian sexy nor is it extremely short. However, if it isn’t a hot look then I am mystified. Haider Ackermann has leather and he has slits up to there. With the total devotion to asymmetry it links him undeniably to the French style. No one does asymmetry better than the gang in France.

I know that a lot of people are now wondering why I am saying France as opposed to Paris. Well that’s because Paris may be the fashion capitol of France but there are designers who are from Lyon, Marseilles, Nice, Cannes and all over the country.

As you read the reviews in this blog remember that our comments are based on our personalities and our taste. If I had to choose between Costume National and Haider Ackermann, my choice would be Haider Ackermann. It is a more interesting and complicated look. It requires less accessorizing and in some ways for me it is edgy, yet very easy to take on a stroll around the block.

Are you going to get questions? Absolutely! The question is going to be who are you wearing and where did you get it? I believe that selected Saks Fifth Avenue stores carry the label and also selected Nordstrom stores; but for certain, you can find him in Paris, London and Rome. I have not been to Belgium lately but I would assume that since he is Belgian, Brussels will have plenty of retailers carrying the label.

So as I have said before, don’t take our word for what is hot and what is not. Look for yourself and then let us know if you agree with anything we write here. If you don’t, feel free to take us on. Just like we believe that fashion and style is your birthright, we also believe that you have the right to be heard.

a la prochaine

Debra

Thursday, April 8, 2010

Where Does it Get this Cold?

Karl Lagerfeld, for Chanel, took us to a place I had no idea existed. I can’t imagine where it gets so cold that you would wear fur pants. I kid you not; there is a whole collection of fur pants. Okay the fur was faux fur; but when you are paying these prices, even faux fur looks real.

Then there are the fur ugg-type boots with clear Lucite heals that I assume are for warmth because they can’t possibly for anything else. So again, the question - - where does it get this cold? My thought is that uggs belong at ski resorts and should not be seen on city streets. That’s just me. However Mr. Lagerfeld clearly does not share that sentiment.

Being originally from the Pacific Northwest the collection really did remind me of Inuit clothing. The native Alaskan tribe would look at this collection and I am not sure if they would be honored or offended. No it was not traditional but there was something very aboriginal about the collection. I would imagine that there was also Lapp influence. So, native people of the north, rejoice. Mr. Lagerfeld has a collection that appears to be in your honor.

So, set this stage; ice caves and ice floes, arctic scenery and snow. No models of color, except Shu Pei Qin and Liu Wen. That made the whole scene believable as of course there are no people with dark skin living in cold climates. Yeah, right!

As everyone knows we sat out Paris this year and opted for a more leisurely romp through the shows on line. Once I viewed the Chanel show I was glad I was not there. Paris can be frigid in March and this March, it was just that. I would have run to the nearest café and ordered a wonderful Parisian hot chocolate. Then I would have run back to the apartment to sit by the fireplace with a pot of tea. If nothing else the scene was believable and you realized that the mood was Nordic.

Don’t get me wrong. Some of the classic Chanel touches were there. The texture and ruffles that the label is known for were evident. The use of black and white was prominent. And, while the concept was originally birthed by his now departed colleague Yves Saint Laurent, Mr. Lagerfeld did include a new take on the tuxedo jacket paired with a white high-waist pant with a black waistband and a bowtie.

As with the other designers, there was a lot of knitwear. I can say that the Chanel knits were luxurious and done in a way to look like boucle. There was even a knit wedding dress. However, it was a bit busy for my taste. It is full of ruffles and pompoms and what looks like knitted tulle.

For the most part this was a very high fashion collection. It was almost to the point where I would have rather seen it rolled out in January at the couture shows. There are very few ‘commercial’ pieces in this collection.

One of the most commercial pieces is a smart cocktail dress in charcoal grey with a black banded hem. It has a very flattering square neckline, short sleeves and a modified baby doll silhouette. It would be a great choice for a woman who was going to an event that required cocktail attire and she was looking for something comfortable because she was pregnant.

There is also another great cocktail dress, again in black, with an empire waist and a modified trapeze skirt. It has a keyhole neckline with matching jeweled appliqués on the cuff of each long sleeve and as the top closure for the keyhole. So if you need a great dress at the age of 45 or above, again you have it in this garment.

Chanel never disappoints. You will always get a great show. You will always see the theme of the collection in the set. You will always know that Karl Lagerfeld was there and that his vision is driven by something few will ever understand.

a la prochaine

Debra

Wednesday, April 7, 2010

Hail to the Queen of Goth

I must say it one more time. If my style was Goth, Ann Demeulemeester would be my designer of choice. Her collection for fall 2010 is incredible. Some may think it is a bit over the top but for me, that is what makes it stand out.

Since we are talking Goth, of course it is black. For embellishment it has been accented with red and gilded with feathers. Unlike some Goth that is just angry and a bit frightening, this collection just screams style. Also, this collection delivers some outerwear that is classic. You could wear it 10 years from now and people would stop you on the street and ask you where you got that incredible coat.

Some of the collection has real classic appeal. There are a couple of pant suits that I would put my mother in and she would love them. That is amazing because my mother tends to cringe when she sees Goth anywhere. I personally would love the taupe asymmetrical jacket. It is incredibly stunning and paired perfectly with a pair of charcoal grey trousers and black leather gloves.

The first look onto the runway was an incredible pantsuit with a jacket that was asymmetrical, wrapped, belted and simply sumptuous. The second look was also a pantsuit with another asymmetrical jacket but sleeker and more classically tailored. Either one would survive the scrutiny of many fashionistas. And, if you were to talk to my previous staff, I think they are absolutely appropriate for the workplace.

You see, I was never one to bow to the traditional line of thinking. I know that the adage is to dress for the job you want. Well that is exactly what you should do. However, if you have the job, that means you can start dressing for the next one. While I was a CFO the job I started dressing for was Fashionista Supreme.

So for those who hate Goth do me one favor. Check out the Demeulemeester show. Then tell me that you hate Goth. I am betting that you will have a slight change of opinion. She managed to make a convert of me.

a la prochaine

Debra

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

A Bit of a Digression

Come September we are all going to be in for a treat. Actually, the treat will start in late July when fall hits the stores. We have blogged a bit about a couple of shows but now we are going to give those entries and the entries to follow some context. So, grab a glass of Merlot and have a bit of a read.

Well on Wednesday, March 10, 2010 the last show was held in Paris. To us that is the official end of the season. Of course there are still shows taking place but for the most part, the big names have shown their collections. As promised, we are now going to start blogging in earnest about this past fashion season shows. Unlike the past we are going to do some compare and contrast pieces as well as talk about what we saw and what we liked. So hang on for a wonderful stroll through fashion nirvana.

There was a clear winner this year and that winner was the typical woman. Maybe it is the economy or maybe it is the way women are consuming these days. Whatever happened, the majority of designers got on a page that finally recognized who their customers really are.

When you go to these shows you are first mesmerized by the art of the event and second by the beautiful garments that are being paraded in front of you. Somehow, you lose track of the fact that the girls (they are rarely grown women) being paraded in front of you are for the most part under 22, generally at least 5’10” and weigh less than 110 pounds. There are very few people in the audience who could get up on that runway. More than that, there are few people (specifically women) who fit into the size 2 and even 4 garments that are passing by.

In the United States the average woman wears a size 14. In France the average woman wears a size 6 or 8. Maybe, just maybe, the designers have figured out that the 16 and 17 year olds who are on the runway are not the norm, nor is the typical 16 or 17 year old capable of purchasing any of their garments. The consumers are women over 30who are willing to spend $2,500 on a jacket, $4,000 on a coat or as much as $12,000, or more, for a gown. Given that, it is really a smart move to design clothing that a woman with less than a perfect figure can wear and not feel self-conscious.

So how did they pull this off? Here is what they did. The trend is definitely running toward sports wear. The trend is leaning toward classic lines that have real wearing longevity. Also, most of the designers showed at least one absolutely cozy, chunky sweater. Most of them showed at least one piece that had great texture. And, for the record I think that most of them now understand that Donna Karan was right. The best way to dress women is in separates.

There are going to be some wonderful dresses for Fall 2010 but you are going to see pants and skirts and sweaters and jackets in abundance. The pants are more trousers than jean or slim cut. The skirts are in a variety of silhouettes and not just that pencil skirt that the American retail buyers seem to love. The jackets are strong. They do not seem to have the exaggerated, pronounced shoulders you are going to see this spring but they do have great structure and tailoring.

There is a lot of knit wear and more than a few designers seem to have had an equestrian theme in their collections. That theme will also be seen in a few collections this spring. So if any of you have clothing in you closet that is equestrian in nature, keep it. Get a great pair of riding boots and if you can invest in a modified top hat or a derby. A veil is not necessary but the hat will take you a long way.

As we are always advocating, hit the consignment and resale stores. You can find some great items at reasonable prices. If you find a piece that needs some work find a good dry cleaner or tailoring shop that can do repairs and restorations. It would be well worth the investment.

Some of you are now saying that you are up to $400 for that Akris jacket you found at Judy’s Friend’s Sister’s Closet. But guess what? If you went to Saks or Neiman Marcus that same Akris jacket would be about $5,000. You have a great jacket for life and you saved $4,600.

So now that I have identified the winner in this latest round of collections, I will opine on some of the collections that really caught my eye. What else is there to do? We have to wait for all of this to come around again. That would be in the fall. Come September it all starts again in New York and will end in October in Paris. Ain’t it great that there really are things you can depend on?

a la prochaine

Debra

You Can Borrow My Mirror !!!!!!!!!!!

It has been a few weeks ....With the beginning of Spring and Fall Runway shows..
how ironic huh !!,but unfortunately I have not been able to view all the new fall fashions ,due to spring visual merchandising.......... But I promise to give some inclusive details on the next entry....
Before I do sign off ,I did want to address the surge of tights !!!!!!!!
About two weeks ago San Francisco had a surge of spring weather for almost a week along with fashion faux pas tight wearing fashionistas !!!!! My search was basically
drawn from the attractions in the Fillmore/Pacific Heights area. Perhaps I should say
I will buy you a mirror vs. borrowing one !!!!There were very few do's vs. dont's.
To come to a quick solution,I would suggest invest in a GOOD pair of footless tights
and about an half hour of your time along with your mirror that is larger than a compact case and take some serious looks of the rearview from all possible angles !!
Address the issue or redress the look .....

A demain !
Janice

Monday, April 5, 2010

The Incredible Mr. Grant

Martin Grant. Those two words are synonymous great clothes. While he is gradually making a name for himself, I also think that he is being discounted by some of the major players. I think he is viewed as not being edgy enough. But here is what he is doing; he is dressing women.

I am really into outerwear that has clean classic lines. It is one of the things I appreciate about Stella McCartney’s line. It also is the reason I am becoming a big fan of Martin Grant. If I spend a couple thousand dollars on a coat I want to be able to wear it for years to come. I do not want to have to toss it out after two seasons because it is dated.

I like clean lines and classic looks for the base of my wardrobe. Those edgy pieces are for enhancing my wardrobe. After all I do need to shock people every now and then. Guess what? Mr. Grant gives you edge also.

Unlike some of the other designers who show in Paris he does small collections. He also opts for presentations as opposed to runway shows. At a presentation you get a much closer look at the garment. You get to get a closer look at the garments and you get to see the details. There aren’t 1,000 people six rows deep. It is an intimate setting and it is the perfect way to showcase this collection.

What a take on the black dress. I have never seen someone bubble a skirt with so little bulk. It is smart, it is simple and it is wearable by women of all ages. Then you stay with black and add some leather and again you have the perfect black dress that is again wearable by women of all ages.

Move on to the wrap, leather car-length coat that is so luscious it makes you wonder what you can sell just to get one and possibly a spare. The asymmetrical menswear blazer is a hit with any skirt or pant. And yes it goes on. Every single piece is incredible. The textures and the treatments are great.

Okay, if there is one issue it is length. They are a bit short for women over 40. However, unless you are 5’10” they will be much longer than they appear. It is also likely that in production, they will be lengthened. But for me I appreciate that Martin Grant just may realize that women 40 and over would also like to dress with a bit of style and edge.

Check it out ladies. I am sure you will see at least some of what I see in this collection.

a la prochaine

Debra

Thursday, April 1, 2010

Stella, Strella, Stella

Breaking the Silence

Now that the hype is gone it is time to settle in and take a really good look at the runway shows for Fall 2010. We are going to bounce back and forth across the Pond as we do this in order to do a bit of compare and contrast. Besides, spring is in the stores and before you know it pre-fall will be rolling in and then the big stuff that was just on the runways. So settle in and enjoy the ride.

I have been looking at the shows and Stella McCartney has hit a home run for me. The entire collection is classic Stella. The lines are clean. The silhouettes are clean. Most importantly, these are clothes that women can wear and feel really good about themselves. From the great pants and sweaters to the suits to the fantastic outerwear there is something for every one.

I know that some think that the British designer’s are boring and that Fashion Week London is not the place but I do not agree. There are some incredible British designers and Stella is a great example.

There is a wonderful grey cardigan that can be worn as a dress or a tunic over a pair of skinny jeans. You can even accessorize it and jewel it up to become a great piece for a casual cocktail party. Given the times and the way clients who purchase at this price point invest, it is great piece.

There is also a wonderful winter white coat that is to die for. Okay you may keep your dry cleaning establishment busy but for me it would be worth the frequent cleaning points. It is classic it is timeless and it is going to be in style twenty years from now.

There is color there is texture and there is versatility. What more could you want from you local clothier? Get them to run to the showroom and place an order.

Okay some of the evening wear was not to my liking, but that is because it would look out of place on a woman my age. However, if I were young and fearless and ready to get out there and show the world how fabulous I was, I’d hit the orange number or maybe even one of those lovely two-toned numbers. I am not sure I would be brave enough to do sheer at any age but if you are and you have some fabulous La Perla lingerie then go for it.

a la prochaine

Debra