Post-NY Fashion Week: Where is fashion going?

Charlie Rose hosts a round table discussion with Cathy Horyn of the New York Times; designer Narciso Rodriguez; Millard Drexler, CEO of J.Crew; and Roberta Myers, Editor-in-Chief of ELLE.

This video is a long one (roughly 40 minutes), but covers multiple aspects of the changing fashion industry following the closing of New York Fashion Week. Fashion, as always, is in constant motion--revisiting, reinventing, creating--perpetually evolving. But the industry has adapted to dramatic changes in business models, communication, and audience. The Internet has been one of the most influential contributors to change in fashion.

Drexler speaks candidly about the impact that the Internet has had on quality, price, and the expectations of the consumer. Of course, Drexler is coming from a retail perspective and admits that he sometimes thinks "we're in a different business."

Horn, as a journalist, provides wonderful contribution to context and history of changes in fashion, having done extensive reporting, research, and interviews within the fashion community. She offers interesting insight on why Paris remains a creative capitol for fashion.

Rodriguez discusses his decision to design a collection for EBay and how that has allowed his business to grow. This is such an important part of how the fashion industry has changed recently--the introduction of what I like to call "entry-level" fashion lines or capsule collections offered at low price points and intended to make fashion more accessible for the masses. Of course, critics would argue that this is merely an avenue for designers to make a little cash they can pour into their high-end lines and does not really even the playing field for consumers who cannot afford designer clothing. Unfortunately the merits and shortfalls of these retail lines was barely touched on in this segment.

Myers doesn't have a lot to say, but her description of ELLE as "media-agnostic" cracks me up. What she means is that ELLE is no longer restricted to fashion coverage through print, but that they also have an online presence that allows them to explore media formats such as video. It would have been interesting to hear how she thinks the internet has impacted the role of magazines in the fashion world, particularly with the wave of bloggers that have created a significant presence in the industry.

The real treat of this video is the clip of an interview from 1997 with Alexander McQueen. It's interesting to revisit such an old interview, but it is so effective in reminding the viewer of why this man was able to make such an impact on the fashion world. What struck me most was his emphasis on how difficult the industry is and how very hard he had to work. At one point McQueen admits that he wouldn't do it over again, given the chance.

I hope you enjoy, and please leave feedback!

Kirsten

The Art of Scanning !!!!

We have had some incredible weather in the past 10 days in the Bay Area...Today is
definitely one of the Spring is in the air and so is the pollen !!!! I lean towards the old school
remedies and work through it ,breathing better now.
With that introduction it makes a good segue way into the art of scanning .Yes I am ,
and I know Kenney and Debra are also checking out the fall styles and all the runway shows for
Fall .We realize that some of our audience can't even fathom to think about Fall 2011..because
you are trying to come out of hibernation along with the groundhog...and trying to figure out how
many times you can wear that indecisive purchase you made @ that online sale from Lord /Taylor @ 80 % off !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The scanning technique goes along with the art of shopping the resale shops .Please read
the prior entry ! Kenney and I recently did a scanning expedition of approx. three shops
in about 2 hrs ,while jumping on and off of public transportation .I know you are waiting
for the names of the shops ...well you are on your own !!!!! One must be perfectly matched
with someone with the same fashion sense ,knowledge , and physical energy . Within a matter of
10-15 minutes a proficient resale shopper will know if this is a goldmine or time to move on for
the next venture . We may look or see an item that may interest the other ,but just pick it up ,
hold on to the gem ???? and get the opinion when your paths cross @ some point in the store .
Mainly stay focus or you can find yourself just wanting to buy a so-so item .
The March 2010 Am .Vogue has their issue full with Spring collections for 2010. This can
be a great tool for scanning also .What is on the page ???,what is in your closet ?? Also take a
minute to look @ the ads that are not necessarily focusing on the clothing item and check out the
accessories ,which is always a great ,inexpensive addition to the wardrobe.
So you want to know what gems Kenney and I found ?? A couple of jackets that will
definitely replace the ones that need to go . In fact the next day the bag was full and ready to
go to the land of recycle clothing and the gems were on their way to the cleaners . Even with the
warmer weather in the Bay Area ,I always layer,because we are near the ocean and the
temp. can change in a few hours . Soon as the gems reach home begin right away to see how it
will co-ordinate with your updated closet . You are on your way !
I am sure you have seen the numerous ads about high-profile designers that are placing
specially designed goods in lower priced stores , if not check it out and I will @ some point in time
and give you my feedback . Also when you look @ style .com.click on the off-runway looks by Tommy Ton .. .Love it for my NYC fix .
One last note on scanning.......Take a look @ the boutiques on Union St. ,Hayes Valley,
and Fillmore St . and see what the stores are offering for full-price and make a trek to your
fav resale shop ...90% of the time you can find it for much less .Recently 'Repeat ' on Upper
Fillmore had a exact match on their mannequin to a picture in the latest W magazine !!!!!!

A demain
Janice

Alexander - You Will Be Missed

Well readers, this is not a good day. The fashion world is reeling. Just days before Fashion Week in London is scheduled to begin comes the most shocking news imaginable.

I was stunned to learn of the untimely death of Alexander McQueen. Whether you were a fan of his unrestrained style or not, you have to admit that he knew how to put on a show. I will never forget the one Alexander McQueen show I was fortunate enough to see.

I know all of you who know me and my taste are wondering why I would attend an Alexander McQueen runway show. Well it was Paris and it was Fashion Week and it was McQueen. I spent days trying to figure out how to get the producers of the show to let me attend. I, the unknown American, not attached to Saks or Nordstrom or Bloomingdale's had absolutely no clout. So finally I found someone I had developed a relationship with from the Boutique Pret-A-Porter world and asked him how I could get an invitation or even buy a ticket. He looked at me, smiled, picked up his phone and I heard him say "I have someone here who wants to attend the show".

I had no idea who he called or whether he was talking to someone who could really get me in the show. As it turns out if it is your show, you can get anyone in you want. So I was treated to one of the best shows I have ever seen. No, I did not cringe as the very Elizabethan collection went down the runway. It made me want to go to the showroom and really look at the construction of the garments. I really wanted to speak with McQueen but I was told he didn't do interviews and that he wasn't into the after-show hoopla and most likely would not be there. So the show itself was my highlight and I will remember it always.

They were intricate yet elegant. They were very elaborate but wearable. They could be described as nothing short of works of art. At that moment Alexander McQueen crossed over the chasm that Christian LaCroix had crossed, for me, a few years earlier. I now understood that for them it really was about the art of fashion.

No, it was still not my style. I still did not think that it was a collection that resonated with me. However, I can respect the talent, the art the creativity. What I saw was beautiful. It simply wasn't me.

So now, as of today, the fashion world is short one more genius. There will be one less shining star lighting the way. My sincerest wish is that somehow there is a way to keep the house open and the label in production. Too many labels have been lost or are in trouble as a result of the economy. I think it would be a great tribute to keep this house and its fashion concepts going.

So, Mr. McQueen, I hope you are at peace. May you rest forever in a place of beauty and happiness and may you never be forgotten. I know I will remember you.

I have no idea whether Alexander McQueen was religious or spiritual. All I know is that every single person on this planet deserves a prayer and a blessing upon their departure so I will offer this:

Alexander McQueen, may the Lord bless you and keep you. May the Lord make his face shine upon you and be gracious unto you. May the Lord lift up the light of his countenance upon you and give you peace.

If I have offended any readers as a result of this post, my apologies. It is not my intent to offend. It is my intent to honor Alexander McQueen.

a la prochaine
Debra

Replacement Therapy !!!!!

I heard something interesting today , that with the new Spring arrivals hitting the stores ,
the buyers and merchandisers are basically letting the merchandise just ease into the departments . The reason being is the number one issue the " economy " . There is no secret the
stores are playing it safe .Shoppers are not beating down the doors and but are on cruise control
at the moment ,including myself .
Not to my surprise ,because I am out there with the masses , the resale and consignment
stores are overwhelmed with women as well as men scavenging the racks for the hidden jewels ! Many are very selective ,because there is a method to this surge of shopping .As I reiterate to my sister-in law continuously ...Do you have one like that in your closet ????????
A good way to get the best for your dollars is to definitely research your closets for unwanted
items that do not fit , worn ,and useless ..Hence Replacement therapy has begun !
I find myself revamping and updating the looks in my closet numerous times during the year.
Which brings us to our next area of expertise...what are they really showing for Spring ???
There is no need to scoop up all the spring issues of Vogue, Lucky ,W .etc etc . Go to style.com
a couple times a month to see the trend sections. As I said once before Bazaar magazine is
probably the best for the everyday shopper to just get your fashion fix .Of course if you have
more of an interest for the runway designers ,with more information on the designers themselves ,search out the Italian Vogue and others along that line .There is a great magazine
store on upper Fillmore @ Jackson (S.F.,Ca ) that has every issue you could possibly want ,not only in the fashion industry ,but a wide array of publications..Back to Therapy............
There are not many new trends for Spring once you look closely @ the ads .A few items
are possibly sitting in your closet . Ralph Lauren is showing Americana again,which is basically
pseudo-western with a flair.......There is still the military look with the absence of the Balmain
jacket that retailed @ 5000 dollars last year .a reinvented version of MJ's jacket with a flair
of Sgt .Pepper ..Buy a few medals and get yourself to the army surplus store .Many looks
are reinvented..including a few tie-dyes looks in more muted shades .Can you believe it ??
So get your mental list together and hit those resale shops ,guaranteed you will find a close
enough version of a few items you saw online .Just remember it takes a few trips and surmising which shops are relevant to your style . Keep to your colors and realize that you are your way to
replacing items for just a minimal cost !! Most shops are restocked daily but upon entering if
you get to the first rack and can't resist that cashmere vintage sweater .HOLD ON TO IT.......
UNTIL YOU MAKE YOUR FINAL CHOICES...You are not the only one looking for a treasure
and it can be gone in seconds .
One last note...because of high rents or whatever San Francisco..is losing some of the long standing shops...Raphael House is no longer...Go Figure in the Richmond has vacated...and
soon to close is the Junior League Shop on upper Fillmore..Whats a fashionista to do ???
Thank goodness there is still Repeat Performance on upper Fillmore which has great fashion
finds ,antiques,glassware ,shoes and the very perfect little gift item ! that can suit any one's
desire....

A demain
Janice

Getting Back on Track

Well gang, I took a bit of a break. It was a bit more literal than I wanted but I am on the mend. It is a bit daunting knowing that it takes me about 20 minutes simply to walk around the block, unaided. However, at least I am walking without crutches and getting my strength back. I can actually spend 10 minutes on my recumbent bike without screaming in pain. So in no time I will be back.

If you are wondering what any of that discussion has to do with fashion just wait to connect the dots. I promise it will make sense.

The men's shows were followed by couture week and now it is ready to wear time in Paris. In a few short weeks it will be time for Fashion Week. I know it is already that time in NYC. But for me Fashion Week is Paris. It is Paris because of what happens just prior.

No I am not thinking about Fashion Week in London or Milan. I am thinking the incredibly endless line of ready to wear designers and the number of salons that take place. Arrondissment 15eme is a buzz with buyers from every country. There are a lot of individual boutique buyers from the US but there are few retail buyers from the major department stores.

The retail buyers are in NYC right now and getting ready for Milan and they will leave Milan and head for Paris. The sad part is they are about to put in orders for clothes that most women, even in a great economy, cannot afford. They would do better to go to Pret-A-Porter, Who's Next and some of the other shows. It is where they will find those great, edgy, fashion forward clothes that should be lining the walls and rounders in their stores.

They will go to the showrooms of the brands they know (in NYC) and they are going to deliver the same t-shirts, pencil skirts, skinny jeans and bland sweaters that they always get. They will get back to what they know. There will be nothing for women over a certain age and nothing for anyone who is fashion forward.

There will be no call for new labels because they are not comfortable taking that risk. Even if they do take a risk they are going to pick through the collections and get what is safe. They will see a look put together and say it is too busy or that there is too much going on. So they will order the pants but not the jacket and vest and shirt and scarf. They will not finish the look so you won't be able to either.

So here is what you can do. Get out of your comfort zone! Take that risk and when you add to your wardrobe or edit your closet. It may take you longer to pull that look together but it will be a great look and soon it will be you. You'll get back to that five minute walk around the block and 45 minutes 4 times a week on that recumbent bike, which for this part of the post is FASHION.

a la prochaine

February 1st ...A good day to begin anew !!!!!!!!!!!

Just a few notes to say we are alive and well ............................
I and Debra look forward to filling and refilling your minds with the upcoming ,latest fashion
news......views..........and ....miscues...........of the Fashion World !!!!!!!!!!!
I am presently looking @ the Spring have and havenots .....so hold on to your dollars...because
resale is your way to go......
More for your dollar.....

More in 2010 !!!!!!!!!!!
Janice