Monday, October 18, 2010

The First Compare and Contrast

Well, there appear to be a couple of themes for Spring 2011. Some are resonating with me and some are not. For example, there seems to be an overall return to the late 70's early 80's. That is okay. What is not okay is the seeming penchant some of the collections have for the Stepford Wife look. You can only take so many ruffles before you start looking as if a cream puff factory exploded in your closet. One of the other inspirations for some designers seemed to be travel to foreign destinations.

This can be seen in the collections by Jean Paul Gaultier for Hermes and Carolina Herrera. Hermes captioned the look as western. In reality, the look took me straight to Argentina where the Gauchos roam. It wasn't so much the clothes as the chief accessory. That hat!!! If I were 5 inches taller I would definitely get that hat. However, the brim is too wide for someone as short as I am. But let me find one with a narrower brim and we are in business.

Ms. Herrera (again the epitome of style and grace) had Korean garments as her theme. Having never been to Korea, I was not sure what she had in mind. When I saw the chief accessory (again a hat) I was transported to the Andes. While I could not see the garments on a coffee grower or someone leading tourists on a guided tour using burros, that hat definitely was an item they would have. Also, Ms. Herrera used a plethora of models that represented the world. I like that about her. She does not seem to have a quota on what type of model she will use.

And speaking of types of models - - - my hat is off to Mr. Gaultier. For his collection (Jean Paul Gaultier) he used models of all sizes. He gets it. Every woman wants to be beautiful. Every woman wants to believe that she can find a designer garment that will fit and make her feel special. So on his runway you saw everything from size 0 to 24. While some of you in the fashion world were disgusted it is clearly time to get over yourselves. Size 0 is not the norm. Besides, only a dog wants a bone.

Now to the Stepford Wife collections. I found Andrew Gn's collection almost cloyingly sweet. I haven't seen that may ruffles and that much lace in a long time. Even the maxi dress look of them was far too reminiscent of women under the spell of some drug or replaced by some android if they did not comply.

Chanel was also a bit too sweet for my taste. Mr. Lagerfeld gave you monochromatic and of course the signature lace. I guess I am getting a bit tired of the starkness of his sets and the chilling effect that they have. I guess I want a more dynamic set like the one that used the carousel a few seasons ago. It had life and movement. That is something the last couple of collections seem to be missing for me.

And then there was Valentino. While the look may be more modern and intended to capture the 35 and under set, you have lost the 35 and over. Women over 40 don't want puffed sleeves and cut little dresses. We want to look elegant and polished. We are not trying to be our daughters and nieces. We are not trying to be our mothers. Maybe some of you can speak with Mr. Gaultier and figure out that fashion has to run the gamut and include everyone.

So start checking out the collections. We want your comments. We are not the final word on fashion. We are just one word on fashion.

Next time - - - I may have to do an exclusive on Haider Ackerman. He is beyond sick.

a la prochaine

Debra

Saturday, October 16, 2010

Do You Own This Skirt

Okay ladies, I am going to be brutal. There are some things that should not be put in the back of the closet or in that storage trunk. There are some things that should be sent to the great clothes bin in the sky. One of them I actually saw on a woman the other day.

It has been very warm in the Bay Area this month so people have gone nuts with clothing. I have seen some pretty amazingly awful looks. Some of them even border on hootchy. If the person behind you on the escalator has to turn their head because your skirt is so short you butt cheeks are hanging out from your thong and they can see them by simply looking straight ahead, that is hootchy. But this skirt is just wrong on too many levels to even salvage.

Enter 1979 and the height of the 'Prairie Skirt". Yes you heard me the prairie skirt. The ones with the multiple layers of ruffles. Well in Golden Gate Park there was a woman in one with a hot pink, yellow, blue and chartreuse paisley print for the outer layer; a lime green second layer and the final layer was turquoise. It looked as if a gum ball machine had thrown up and it landed on her.To make it even worse she had on flip-flops with toe socks and teal colored tee shirt (I guess she was picking up the various shades of blue and trying to tie them together).

Well Ms. Mitchell said it best; 'everything comes and goes marked by lovers and styles of clothes...". This style is long gone. Retire it to the great used clothing closet in the sky. I realize that there was the bohemian gypsy style of 2004-2006, but even it has rested. It is tamer than what this woman was wearing. Maybe she was a flower child. Maybe she was making a fashion statement. Let's be honest. Some fashion statements are, and should be, NEVER WEAR THIS AGAIN!! If I had a citation book I would have cited her for a fashion felony.

If you want to recycle clothing I am all for that. If the fabric is still in great shape, deconstruct the garment and make something else from it. I would have taken the outer layer of fabric and made a couple of throw pillows to go on a couch or chair. I would have cut the other layers into strips, finished the edges, made a basket-weave pattern and appliqued them on a contrasting background, added some other texture to make a great wall hanging. I'm not saying waste good fabric. I am saying don't wear a ridiculously dated skirt that makes you look crazy.

So remember the is a difference between retro, vintage and simply passe.

a la prochaine

Debra

Thursday, October 14, 2010

Before We Start

I know. You thought the next post would be one of the compare and contrast pieces. Well, you have to wade through one more post. this is a post that will hit raw nerves with some. It is a post about how you present yourself to the world.

Now I admit that I often sit around my home in sweats and flip-flops, no makeup and my do askew. However, you will never see me in public looking like I just rolled out of bed and forgot to look in the mirror to see what if I looked as if I should be on public display. I see far too many women (and men) in the Bay Area looking as if they have no mirror in their home and just go ahead and go out however they happen to be at the moment. This really depresses me.

I went to a place of business last week and met a friend for coffee. There were a lot of people sitting around the lobby so I asked her what was going on. She said that they were interviewing people for a couple of entry level positions. When this came out of her mouth I was stunned. Why would anyone go to a job interview looking that way.

One woman had on a pair of dusty blue, brushed denim pants and a mulberry colored cable knit sweater, no makeup, hair hanging limply to her elbows and a pair of crocs on her feet. Why would I hire you looking like that. Then there was the woman who violated the rule of 'fit 101'. You may have worn a size 10 a year ago but you need a size 14 now. Go ahead and get the larger size so the buttons are not hanging on for dear life on your blouse with gaping holes where your bra shows through.

The men were no better. One had on a pair of faded navy blue dockers with a white shirt that was half tucked in, with a black and white rep tie. He had busted looking penny loafers on his feet that hadn't seen polish in many years. Then there was the one who had on a black shirt with white chalk stripes, collar and cuffs, a red, blue, yellow green and orange psychedelic tie, pale grey pants and brown cowboy boots.

I suggested to my friend that in the future they suggest that the applicants come professionally dressed. Much to my surprise and dismay she told me that they were told to dress professionally. Is this what we have come to?

Even when I was in the Seattle/Bellevue area last fall I noticed that people in Seattle just did not dress. They had no idea that they looked not just unkempt but actually dirty. There were several young women I wanted to stop and ask them if they had ever considered taking a scrub brush to the young men they were with. I don't understand. Doesn't anyone want to dress up anymore?

I don't want to hear that it is a function of money. It is not. It is a function of being lazy and thinking that you are too good to care what you wear and that it doesn't matter. Well guess what? IT DOES!

Like it or not, you are constantly being judged. You don't have to wear big labels or be edgy. You don't have to spend thousands or even hundreds of dollars on clothes. You do need to pull yourself together. You do need to appear to be clean and well groomed. You can accomplish this with very little money and very little effort. I would think that is is harder to look as ratty as I see people looking than it would be to pull on a pair of jeans, a tee shirt and a vest, a great scarf and a pair of sandals. If you don't like scarves then a great belt of bag or earrings would work.

All I am saying is that the next time I go to the ballet, the symphony, the opera etc. it would be great if not one person there had on a pair of ratty jeans. It would be even better if not one single person had on a pair of jeans. I don't care if they did cost $300, they are jeans and they don't go everywhere.

Whatever you wear, wear it with style. Also remember that just because it comes in your size does not mean you should wear it (and that is whether you wear a size 2 or 22). Every garment is not for every body. Run to H&M  and get some great separates. Go to Zara and see what is there. Go to Ross, Nordstrom Rack, Marshalls, TJ Maxx. You don't have to hang out at the big 5 (Neiman Marcus, Saks, Bergdorf Godman, Barney's and Lord&Taylor). You don't even have to shop at one of the Federated Stores like Dillards or Macy's. You don't have to frequent Nordstrom or Bloomingdale's. Go to Target. Go to Walmart. Go to Kohl's. Just make sure that you buy clothes that fit well and that make your statement.

That said, if your statement is I want to look like a bum who is unkempt and unwashed then I suggest therapy. You obviously have some serious self-loathing going on and eventually it will not work for you.

And finally, if this makes me a snob - - so be it. I will never cross my threshold looking like I forgot to shower and get dressed.

a la prochaine

Debra

Wednesday, October 13, 2010

The Benefits of Insomnia

I know everyone is asking what this could possibly have to do with fashion. Well if you allow me a few lines I'll tie it all together. But first, some words of wisdom.

If you have had chicken pox get a shingles vaccine. It is not a pleasant condition. Between the itching, the pain and the general discomfort, I have gotten little sleep over the past few nights. Right now I am streaming Chante France and the song playing is LE TRIBU DE DANA.  It is one of my favorites. It is actually taking my mind off of the fact that I can't have another benadryl for about three hours. Let's hope I like the next song also.

Last night I woke up at about 2:30; so I guess it was actually morning. I couldn't take any benadryl and I was miserable. So I turned on the television for some distraction. As I flipped through the channels I found this channel called 'green planet'. There was a show on called living with Ed. It is actually a show about Ed Begley. Apparently he is really into the environment and living as greenly as possible. So much so that he has compelled his wife to follow along.

Well in the episode that was on, his wife was going to an event and wanted to wear a 'green' gown. Yeah, you know where I am going. This is a follow-up to the why don't people dress post.

I have no objections what so ever to being sustainable, green and non-toxic. Ask my Danish friends. I love their fabrics and the whole concept. My objection is to the lack of fashion and style. Ed Begley's wife picked a dress that could double as a nightgown. It was hideous. To make matters worse she insulted French and Italian designers by saying that the gown was as good as one they would design. Trust me; Valentino would never design a gown that you could wear to a function, sleep in and then 'ready roll', go to breakfast after sleeping in it.

I believe in supporting cooperatives in developing countries. I believe in recycling fabrics. I do not believe in ugly. More than that, when I saw the footage of the event I was appalled. People were in jeans. Men were in less than appropriate attire for a gala. It proved that as bad as the Bay Area is in terms of dressing and fashion, Los Angeles is worse. There was a woman in a bikini and fishnet hose. That is beyond trashy. I have no words for something like that.

If Ed Begley's wife wants a gown that is not traditional I'd check out Haider Ackermann. Those are gowns that could rock a red (or green) carpet. The idea is chic, current, bold and interesting. That would be Haider Ackermann, not the crap you wore to some gala that was really the equivalent of a backyard barbecue in terms of style and class.

So ladies, if you want to do sustainable make sure it is still current and stylish. Do not stoop to the level of wearing a modified nightgown out in public.

a la prochaine

Debra

Tuesday, October 12, 2010

Bravo!! Sarah Burton Picks Up the Gauntlet

I have to admit that if someone came to me and said, "you are going to carry on for Alexander McQueen" I would first start to laugh, then start to cry and eventually faint. But, Sarah Burton did no such thing. She channeled her long time colleague and delivered almost 40 looks that were decidedly McQueen. It was as if she stepped into his body and asked him exactly what he had in mind for the season.

I have always thought that his designs were brilliant, though not my style. I have never felt that I could pull off the 'costume' look of many of the pieces in a McQueen collection. So I guess I must say that while I am definitely into very chic fashion and that I love an edgy look, I am definitely not yet confident enough to pull of Haute Couture.

So for those who were worried that the passing of Alexander McQueen would be the end of the label, not so. Ms. Burton is fully in charge and fully capable of bringing us everything we ever wanted to see from this design house. The House of Alexander McQueen will continue to produce stunning men's and women's collections and even the label McQ, under the watchful eye of Ms. Burton will thrive.

We are spending the weekend going over our notes so we can begin the compare and contrast next week. We anticipate approximately 8 posts that will surly give you a reason to think.

a la prochaine

Debra

Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Breaking the Silence

We admit that we stepped away from posting for a little over a month. We decided to do a compare and contrast of the Spring 2011 collections. It is a lot less grueling than the day by day posting. Not only that, it has given us a chance to look at some trends. So now we are starting with a small step.

The most distrubing trend is the 'mullet' dress. You know short in the front and long in the back. It was a bad hairstyle and now is appears that designers what to bring it around as a bad dress. I have seen very few of them well put together on a red carpet or a runway.

I understand the practicallity. Walking in a full length gown is sometimes difficult. Especially if said gown is too long. Again, if you cannot see the toes of your shoes peeking out under the hemline, the dress is too long.

Clearly, designers are tired of seeing women step on the hems of their gowns. Ergo, create the 'mullet'dress. Knee or thgh length in the front with a full train in the back. Wrong answer. Send women to the class I call 'fit 101'. If you are going to go to the trouble of spending that kind of money on a gown get it altered to fit ladies.

Next issue - - - have black women been banned from the runways again? Is there some fear that if someone with a darker complexion is showcasing the dress it will not sell? I frankly am getting tired of designers, advertisers and fashion magazine editors who keep pertetuating the slight to black women.

That's right I blame them all. There are very few women of color sitting around the editoraial table in the halls of these magazines. The black men who sit at these tables should be ashamed. They are so afraid of rocking the boat that they say nothing. Oh they will go to graduation ceremonies and encourage students of color but they will not stand up to the Anna Wintours of the world.

It isn't about training or education. It is about access and opportunity. Anna Wintour is Editor in Chief of American Vogue. She weilds a lot of influence in the fashion industry. She didn't work her way to the top. She was given the position due to her father's influence. She wants to pass it on to her daughter (also with no formal training in fasion). If Conde Nast falls for that, then shame on them too.

Despite all of the gains and the flap about Italian Vogue's "Black Issue" things seem to have slipped back. We are not in a post racial world. sadly we are becoming more polarized than ever.

That does not have to be the case. There is enough for everyone. Fashion is a big industry and clearly there are a lot of really talented people. Let's give everyone a chance.

Next post - - - What's Coming for Spring 2011

a la prochaine

Debra

Sunday, August 22, 2010

A Man With a Dream (connected to an incredible vision)

If you live on the west coast the default fashion Mecca is Los Angeles. The scene in San Francisco is pretty fractured and sleepy. There are some great designers in San Francisco but aren't very cohesive so their voice is weak, and there isn't really a cohesive fashion district.

As you continue up the west coast the next stop for fashion is Vancouver, BC (Canada). So the industry has completely disregarded Portland, Oregon and Seattle, Washington. As far as it is concerned those two places warrant no special attention and fashion does not exist. They forget that it is the corporate headquarters of Norstrom.

Oh how wrong they are. Enter Kemper Freeman, Jr. with the fashion vision and a dream to make Bellevue, Washington the next fashion Mecca. For our readers from western Washington, Kemper Freeman is known as a real estate developer. His family almost single-handedly brought a small farming community (Bellevue) into the modern age and made it into a jewel to rival Seattle in terms of culture, shopping, entertainment and industry. So, if you hear someone say Kemper Development it is indeed the same man.

Your question is how is a developer connected with fashion? Well the Bellevue Collection, which includes Bellevue Square, is the shopping destination and should not be missed. Okay, there is Bravern but its only claim to fame is Neiman Marcus. Bellevue Square has so much more appeal. Not only that, it has Fashion Week!!

The people who guard the industry ignore it and say that it is really a series of trunk shows and does not deserve mention. I disagee. Not that it isn't slightly misnamed, but it is a start and will turn into a real fashion week in time. I am convinced that a perosn with vision and drive can accomplish anything.

So, watch out Los Angeles. You will have some stiff competition. You may have celebrity and a fashion district. However, a fashion district is easy to create and celebrity is fleeting. In terms of beauty, style, culture and class, Bellevue just may have you beat. Once you feel Kempr Freeman coming up behind you to steal the fashion ring it will be too late. He will have everything else in place and the only thing left will be grabbing that ring.

Personally, I hope he is successful. How cool would it be to have Mercedes Benz Fashion Week New York AND Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Bellevue?

a la prochaine

Debra